Dose Pipe Sutututu

Reducing the thickness and/or stiffnessup front you'll end up with less understeer - so benefit there, not to mention the chances of you snapping the brackets reduces significantly.

When they're crimped properly lol.. Will PM you some lols

Install a 2JZ and a Samsonas

Delete the intake pressure relief valve and you'll get close to 200kW on the stock gear with 1.2bar of boost and usual bolt ons.

They must have changed it perhaps, a car from John's Garage (Civic EK Coupe) got disqualified because he cut/shut his guards to fit 255 wide AD08.

Easier and cheaper to achieve higher ppwer to weight ratio in a lawnmower than a Silvia without a RB swap or a 20k+ SR22VET. Also you can't cut the guards to fit wider wheels in IIRC.

Unless you're dealing with a motor built for big boost and big horse power with very big ring gaps, then yes you'll get an undesirable leak down result. Pretty much what @GTSBoy said but in simpler terms.

They might look fine, but generally if they're the OEM ones since 1996 then there's a very high chance they're anything but fine. And if you do decide to replace them, steer clear from red, yellow, pink, green, etc. ones. They need to be either black (OEM, 370Z, R35) or blue (genuine Splitfire).

Yes you can, I used to snap these every few track days. I suggest running better suspension and reducing the hardness of your ARB. I was all in for the super thick, super stiff ARBs but now have both on the softest setting however run much higher spring rates to combat body roll, pitch and also getting much better lap times.

But back on topic, I gave @ActionDan that crazy idea and I hope he does it and capitalises on it! Alternative to a sequential, for those sub 1000hp lol.

Just get a Haltech Elite 2500 man

Yeah, I've looked into it already, involved the following: Sell R33 to some crazy person who wants to build a R33 but realises it's just better value to buy mine Buy a BMW F30 340i w/ Factory LSD (has B58 motor)

Borrow a R34 plastic CAS off another R34 or R33 1997~1998 and try again. Some reason those plastic CAS units are bullshit and often just die.

Go direct to ASR - they made mine to suit an AWD motor for a RWD R33 Shitliner

Even without DBW (which is easy enough and very sexual) you still could use ignition/fuel cut strategies and transient timing decay controls on up/down shifts. Of course nothing beats proper torque management through timing, throttle position. ZF box conversion makes my balls tickle, when shift times of 200ms are possible.. why not?

GT-RS turbos need to go

People don't fudge torque values they either leave it as the default wheel RPM torque OR use derived torque to show torque based off engine RPM.

Those torque figures are actually correct as it has been derived off the RPM. Most dyno operators don't bother setting up the derived torque value and just output roller torque on dyno sheets hence it shows higher numbers. Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488 Ie Torque (N.m) = Power (kW) * 9.5488 / Speed (RPM) If you're reading wheel RPM instead of engine RPM your torque values will be higher.

Stock airbox is the best. Better off bashing out the cat for instant power.

Best bang for buck for a NA is nitrous

Holy siet, you're alive! *Patiently waits for RB20 propaganda*

Get the latest revision of the SS2 with the CBB option. Should get you near 300kW on 98RON with some mild cams and give instant boners.

Another reason I advocate buying a BMW M4, spend money on a flash, full TBE, better IC and it would destroy any R32~34 GT-R around a circuit, and at the drag strip. Because hey, no matter what @GTSBoy and I say you're going to refute it.

You forget that's a DI motor, with variable cam & valve timing, better everything from cylinder head design to block & rotating assembly. Yes they use twins, but if you look carefully the pressure side pre-IC is near identical in length all the way into the W2A IC core which then it's only merged afterwards reducing turbulence - thus reducing the infamous aids turbo shuffle the RB26DETT exhibits. The RB26DETT Twin Aids turbo charger layout is simply a hot mess of inefficiency.

A nice, well thought out twin scroll single turbo makes sense too for 300kW, thing would be on so much earlier than a pair of gay twins