Dose Pipe Sutututu

Put it this way, you don't see many fast cars (Drag/Coota/Roll Racing/Circuit/WTAC) using a PowerFC, but if a shop insists on using a PowerFC then yeah. Yes it might make the power, but there's no engine protection, no spare I/Os, no closed loop strategies, no anything really.

I see what you did there ?

Wiring was checked, but was the voltage checked? Why would they pay for dyno time? it's like DeWalt sells you a drill, then replaces it with the new Dewalt XR series and you ask them to build you a new garage (bad analogy but you get the idea).

Sounds like the car "was" running, then after five days these unlisted issues appeared. Gut internet mechanic feelzzzz say electrical issue.

Use a multimeter and check your voltage. Old Nissans, could have a bad alternator /regulator and voltages could be through the roof and cooking electronics

Come do mine, will pay with BBQ, beer and Japanese whisky in the 12 year old variant.

Are you running the stock plumb back BOV, with it all connected?

Remove dash, replace with MoTec C1212. tell next buyer no idea of KM.

he has a RB30ET thought, there won't be VCT

Get a GTX3576R, you've got a 3.0L Walbro 460 or 525 Haltech Elite 750 https://www.haltech.com/overview-elite-750/

if you see the skyline then good? lol

Or backwards lol

Shop around, those prices seem awfully high - esp since it's in USD. You can save a bit of money on the Haltech sensors by getting OEM GM Continental sensors for both the Flex & IAT. Get a FPR1200 or FP2000 Turbosmart FPR, cheaper - dare say better too - also since you're in the US, get a Tomei HG - proven amazing and cheaper too.

Sexual, I have that in my Crapline and I can leave the car without a trickle charger for 4~6 weeks and the POS still starts up

So you're saying you've spent $80k AUD? Sure didn't get much for it.

Rather BMW M4, OTS MHD flash, turbo back exhaust, larger W2A IC and run 10s with super low mph then run better times around Wakefield Park with just semis and climate control on.

15K USD to AUD = ~ $21.8k Ummm.. maybe drop the V-Cam

sounds like more fun that a pair of twin turbos though

If I had 15k USD to burn I would do the following: Nitto OIl Pump Oil modifications, head drain/crank vent Sex Spec Sump Basic Forged Piston Rebuild Kit, usual crap, King bearings, ARP it's mum left/right/centre Drop in cams, springs, retainer, etc. V-Cam setup Twin scroll manifold, modern twin twin scroll turbo No gay twin turbos Rest of the money on strippers, cocaine and a ticket to Tomorrowland 2020

675hp on an American dyno can be done on stock motor with the correct bolt ons and someone that can tune well, i.e. torque limit the motor so it doesn't go bang through timing and boost strategies. Bore & sleeve? Did I miss a 1 in front of the 6? Haha.

Sorry to hear about your situation @DivHunter but push on man, you're doing a solid job keeping the family together and supporting one another. The world is an interesting place, so how our futures are written. Just be positive! I hope you're wife gets better, and I hope everything works out for you man. When in doubt, dose it and skids.

Use a multimeter, done.

That looks like it has been plumbed incorrectly

Find a new mechanic, I would dare say using a Walbro 255 will fit up easily.

They've been running as BMR Autowerkes, flashing cars with MHD and customising the OTS tunes and installing JB4s.