Dose Pipe Sutututu

even with stock plenum you can easily mount top feed injectors & rail without any shaving of anything sidefeeds are gay.. they work ok.. but on a SR20.. I find with RB25s they are gay, many gays

Sounds very crazy but how rich is your car running on noise? Remember E85 doesn't like being too rich. If you convert to gasoline scaling E85 likes to burn around 12.2 to 12.7. I did have issues with my shitbox misfiring completely when my AFRs dropped below 11.6 another crazy thing about E85 if you run very low timing it will also miss. This was what I've read and also experienced when I was tuning my car. I used 98 timing on E85 at high boost as a starting point when I was tuning and it would misfire. Now I've ironed out those issues, I've got a freaking voltage drop problem lol

I will certainly investigate that, probably do it at the same time when I do my flex setup as I need to crack open the ECU cover to utilise the AUX input/output connector I've already ditched the FPCM & also the factory relay.. I'm taking the trigger directly of the ECU (trigger that goes to the factory relay).. so even if the FPCM & the factory relay is cactus my fuel pump will still be fed with power. I notice many people use the output of their factory relay to trigger their external relay. Probably not the best way to do it, as if the factory relay dies.. you're up shit creek lol... I also dream of Haltech as it's launch control is light years ahead of the Adaptronic

^ you're lucky it was just the power cabling.. I tested it on the alternator itself and the voltage was fluctuating... I'm guessing it's tired, it is an 18 year old car with probably 400 000km on in after everyone having a go at winding back the odometer lol

You sound offended, I apologise if I've offended you - however my intent was not to. I am speaking from experience, also my close mates all have had the same experience as I have.

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it.. Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it. This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU. Now to waste more money

sure thing You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

buy one off the internats.. then take out your entire diff.. bring it to a diff specialist to fit your diff centre.. go home, break it in (according to the instructions) and then rip skids.

I have exactly 1x output available lol... Let's see if I'm bored, I might give it a crack... thinking of setting up flex on the car, however I don't like the way Adaptronic does it..

^ I use a pov spec Adaptronic ECU can't see myself buying a Haltech that cost as much as my rusty R33 haha

hahaha I really wanted a low voltage step down! hey wasn't a poorly wiring arrangement, the only flaw in my setup was relying on the factory FPCM to give a signal to my relay to route the ground into the resistor pack and once a signal was given from the FPCM the relay would ground off the negative feed into the pump. Positive side runs into another 40AMP relay which goes into a 30AMP fuse into the battery.

get with the times saved my motor on the track last time, car cut out then gave it another hit on the straight and realised.. fuarkkk my AFRs are lean as..! turned out my FPCM died so my dual relay setup with my own resistor pack was only giving my pump ~10V, then earthed the 2nd relay and away I went again till I snapped my front anti roll bar link LOL

^ thus you should setup AFR lean protection with your ECU

Hmmm don't think that would work for me. Thanks anyway! I run a catch can but like it all plumbed back.

I think people tend to always overdo the brakes on skylines.. they're actually quite decent to be honest for ALL street use and some very light track work.. well depends on the track too. I do not understand why some people go all out on their brakes because they think they're not good enough for the street. Usually a poor choice of pads, with aged fluid is the main reason for thinking their inadequate.. and if you're into that stance rubbish.. that too.

post up photos.. I'm interested too.. but my turbo is low mounted.. and is there a breather line?

is it hard to transfer Syd -> Melb? Mine currently has 11 months of Sydney rego.

Pop in some Project Mu HC+ or HC800 (as they're called now). Probably will be enough to convince you your 324mm factory BREMBO setup is sufficient for street and light track use.

Damn, jdl-brakes used to list the prices but they've removed all prices for BBK Maybe contact them, I remember a few years ago I looked into them for fun then counted my savings and it wasn't a smart idea.

I personally can't comment because I own a shit box R33 GTS-t But if I had your car and money lying around I wouldn't blink twice about getting the 365mm Alcon 6 Piston kit for the R34 GT-R - that's if the car is being used for track work.. if not I would just stick with the stock setup.. it's more than enough when paired with good pads, fresh brake fluid and good tyres

maybe he uploaded the wrong photos and put the wrong specs up - I think he' trying to sell a R34 GT-R and typed in GT-t by accident.

I'm in Sydney, makes probably 340kW+ on E85, needs coilovers then it's track ready (currently on bilstein shocks & H&R springs). Has oil cooler, ps oil cooler, 2 way, all sorts of fast shit lol.

^ he's got larger brakes, which means larger rotors for cooling, more braking force from larger caliper and overall more surface area

what other pads have you used before? it's hard to compare if the best pad you've ever used are A1RM

what? they're terrible on the track.. even cheap shit Intima SR pads perform better!