Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ he's got larger brakes, which means larger rotors for cooling, more braking force from larger caliper and overall more surface area

what other pads have you used before? it's hard to compare if the best pad you've ever used are A1RM

what? they're terrible on the track.. even cheap shit Intima SR pads perform better!

disconnect IACV & the TPS The AAC is purely for warm up (from what I see) and is not adjustable.

Not sure if that statement is valid... I have a R33 with smaller brake rotors @ 296mm vs. yours which are 310mm.. Caliper wise we are the same and power wise I'm about 340kW. My brakes are stock, my rotors are stock, my brake lines are stock, don't have any master cylinder stropper and they seem fine on all road conditions, even on the track they're fine up to about lap 6/7 that's when they fade. In my opinion, poor braking is due to these things (at a high level): Poor pad choice Old fluid Crappy tyres Poor suspension setup, i.e. no weight transfer from stupidly stiff springs and/or poor damper choice/settings

A1RM and track don't mix, I had massive brake fade by the 3rd lap at Wakefield Park and subsequently came off the track. A daily and very light track work mad I suggest is Intima SR. Quiet, and outperformed the QFM pads for thr same price. For a car that never hits the track I don't see any need for slotted rotors, master cylinder stoppers or braided brake lines. Good stock rotors, fresh fluid and decent pads are all you need. I find people go a little all out for just a street car, understand some like it but sometimes I see a thread like this pop up and people bag out the stock brakes and go full retard not half retard on correcting a problem which wasn't a problem to begin with. Just my input

don't you mean don't accelerate corners holding the steering wheel?

and what fuel pressure was the turbosmart FPR telling you?

I want anti surge characteristics, which in turns gives you that awesome noise

Or feked fuel reg

back around 5+ years ago.. I went to them... wouldn't say it was "good success" but hopefully out with the old in with the new staff... Anyone got photos of their work currently? I'm itching a full 3.5" custom system from start to end and super quiet

you need this: relocates your hard to reach oil filter & also has 2x 1/8pt ports for your gauges

the sandwich press should have ports on it though?

it's not that complicated man.. just buy one of these things:

it's not that complicated man.. just buy one of these things:

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine... will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately... Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers

or go on eBay and get it overseas.. works out pretty cheap

lol.. and? I know you hate my flutters/the sphincter of the universe t u r k e y noises & gate... but it's delivering an experience

Ssssssooolllddddd

TAKE MY MONEY TAKE MY MONEY!!!!!!! I want

One day if I ever do the same thing to a 180SX Type-X, I'm cutting the radiator support in order to run the stock clutch fan

I remember many years ago we used to talk about our RB20DET boat anchors and how much it was a pain in the arse to cool down hahaha

Wrong CA18DE/T uses an electric speed sensor I converted my 180SX with a RB20DET many many years ago and used the CA18DET sensor and even gearbox mount on the RB20DET gearbox Worked tits

R34 NEO plug is different to the R32/33 plug. The ECU won't physically plug in, unless someone has used the R32 harness used a R33 ECU and cut/shut all the plugs on sensors to suit

Even 40 weight is too thin for the track, after several hot laps you'll notice your oil pressure will sit lower. I personally use 15W50