simpletool

There is a thread on here with part numbers, pricing and pictures about a coilover conversion. I had the king springs, wanted harder and went the tein mediums (4kg, 4.5kg). Found then Tein were at least as comfortable on Sydney roads as the King springs even through firmer. Issue was the front sway was on hard and the rear on medium to counter the firmer rear spring rate. Found that the best option was tein front and king rear combo! <<I still think that is the best pure street/comfy combo. Then I ordered threaded sleeves for the front and bought 5kg Hyperco 2.5" ID springs and paired with the Tein rear spring. Run medium/medium on the sway bars, pretty good balance. Now have on order the 5.5kg front hyperco springs. Not 100% on how the Bilstein will handle a 5.5kg front without revalving but they handle the 5kg pretty good but I think the rebound could do with being a bit higher. Local prices for rebuilding, revalving, sleeves and springs is over double USA pricing. Sometimes triple. threaded sleeve how-to: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/?hl=+bilstein%20+sleeve

I think I only lasted 2 laps last time at QR and the diff went bye bye. Must have been drive line vibration or something, dunno.

Is it about 30mins of time on track? Unless you blow a diff of course

I think the 2 conflicting examples of spool of E85 vs petrol goes to the heart of the matter. I am no expert but I thought I'd put my musing in here. I'm assuming it does indeed come down to heat in the exhaust flow which comes down to comparative AFR during spooling. If tune E85 and petrol to the same lambda during spool then the extra E85 mass at a given lambda will reduce heat in the exhaust compared to the petrol tune and reduce spool. If you tune E85 to a bit leaner during spool then this effect will be minimised and perhaps even allow E85 to bring on boost sooner due to the greater power & heat generated. Since E85 gives a wide sweetspot for MBT then it does allow it to be a bit leaner during ramping up without affecting timing.

Offset depends on what tyres you want to run. I guess you're thinking 265/35 ? Then +30 would be a good fitment.

yeah 6/5 or 6/4.5 is about right for street. Normally with cheap adjustables the best place is start is the middle setting, or slightly below. Due to quality issues it is sometimes the case that the best setting will vary set to set.

You cut the Tein springs? Are these S-tech medium or soft?

What switch do you have for VCT with RB20 ECU? Something external or a tweak? If you want a good starting point then turn VCT on at 1200rpm and off at 4800rpm. It might not be perfect but will be much better than what you have and probably a bees dick off optimal.

Yes, many many goods roads are up out north east of Brisbane. Be careful though as motorbikes, police and trucks can appear so always keep well within the limits and on your side of the road.

Two month go by, he rise again. It is him who cannot be spoken of.

Don't place so much concern in intake pressure. It's only a measure of flow restriction (almost certainly caused by the turbo itself).

my head hurts reading this thread. Use 235/40/18 that's the size you should be using. Same offset front and rear if using the same tyre size. 9.5" +20 will fit and not scrape but will require a lip roll at least. +35 will fit on rear, but why? Are you fitting 10.5" with 265/35/18? because if so then yeah it might look ok.

It's is entirely possible. My car is like this. I have height adjustable coilovers on the front and not on the rear. Except I have coilovers in the rear too, since they come stock like that. Essentially the term "coilover" doesn't tell us enough about what you intend to do. What is the spring rate ? What do you mean by "stock" on the rear. etc etc.

Yep most coilovers suck massively. Stock is shockingly soft though. I'd suggest the KYB and king springs or similar option

I've driven an Evo 9 stock, with coilovers, various mods, up to 265awkw. I can tell you that kw for kw they drive virtually identical in a straight line. The twin scroll 4G63 makes up for the 500cc less capacity and ends up feeling slightly more responsive than an equivalent RB25 due to the shorter gearing. The cornering is obviously different with the biggest difference being the much faster steering rack making the Evo dart into corners much better, then mid-corner you can obviously lean on it harder due to the active 4WD system. In saying that I personally think although the Evo is more competent you get just as much enjoyment from a R-chassis since you can adjust the attitude with the loud pedal to provide a bit of tail out fun. I would agree that an Evo needs at LEAST an FP green and 250awkw before they are truly exciting. Otherwise they are just fast and clinical. I would also suggest at least a rear sway bar. I was a big fan of a mates Evo 9 with 265awkw, coilovers and rear bar. and I'm a negative and critical little f**ker.

If it's up and running bring it round to mine this week. Writing the final 1000 words of university papers tonight. No more uni ever. Once the S15 is sorted you won't want to drive anything else.

I doubt any change to brakes would pull you up much quicker on the street. The stock system with decent pads and fluid will easily overcome even 595RSR 235/40/18s on a single hard stop. However MCS and braided lines will give you more control over exactly how hard you are stopping - so if you practise they will give more control at the limit. Saying that the suspension and tyres will have a bigger effect on stopping distance.

I have a typical just hap strut brace and it makes a subtle but entirely noticeable and repeatable difference. R34 had one stock and I'd be confident it's for a reason. The R34 chassis was much more rigid than R33.

We'll this is quite the debate. I wonder if it's really him. First up. Why you buy pod. You need pod or no need pod? I think you pod not need. It is him. If pod you use then ECU go mental disease it add fuel for counting air but air disappear like magic. It isn't him. Why not use the air box and metal intake pipe or silicon pipe with bob return fittings. Keep money in your pocket. What you doing with cam cover gases?

sounds like your ideal diff would be helical. But that's another kettle of fish finding one. They did come in late model R34 manual turbos but rare as f**king hens teeth and wreckers wouldn't know one if it hit them in the head.

brake cylinder stopper doesn't make a difference ? I found a big difference on R33. It made a much bigger difference during hard braking than braided lines. Both these are there to increase feel so you notice graduations in pedal pressure more directly. Cross-dilled rotors will do almost nothing and have downsides with cracking. Slotted rotors might make some difference once the pads get hot, but nothing until then. Curved vane will make a difference on track - definitely. The biggest issue is what pads do you run? Pads can make a MASSIVE difference. First street upgrade is: decent pads fluid brake cylinder stopper The friction coefficient on pads tells you how hard they bite. Doubling this will double your braking force for given pedal effort. It will also wear your rotors about twice as quick. This coefficient changes over temperature so choose wisely. The biggest issue is pads. Standard bendix is at the low coefficient end, then ultimate/HPX, then A1RM, then DS2500, then HC+, then...well you don't want anything after that. You still haven't answered what you use the car for. If it's for track then go buy 355mm 6 pot brakes. If it's street only then stock brakes with pads will be fine.

Adding a thermostat that opens earlier shouldn't have any effect on the steady state peak temp the engine gets to. I mean at best it would give you another 20seconds of track time (the time it takes to get from 75 deg to 85deg or whatever). Only improving flow through the thermostat would. I'd be backing off at 105degrees personally. Depends on coolant as we'll. Agree that guessing oil temp from water temp is fraught with danger.

Hmmm...here's my 2 cents. The curve looks worse than it is due to the scale. 1. There is a big boost drop as revs rise. At 6000 to 6200rpm it is running 15-16psi. That is entirely consistent with the power level achieved. So I'd first be looking at tension on the wastegate spring. If it's adjustable I'd add 2 turns and see the result. It looks like electronic control - is the GAIN set too high? 2. I don't know the turbine/compressor size but I'm pretty sure they're not large enough to warrant a 4000rpm boost threshold. I'd mention to the tuner that they investigate the AFRs around boost threshold (and knowing at least a tiny bit about how SAU tune they'll need to richen it up a bit coming onto boost, preferably for 800rpm before too). #1 should fix most of your power issue #2 should fix the drivability - which is AT LEAST as important. I'm not saying there aren't other issues going on but it doesn't look too bad considering the boost drop. Other things to check: 1 - Is the VCT set correctly? Is it ON between approximately 1200 and 4800rpm ? 2 - Is it too lean in places? Better to err on the side of rich rather than lean.

My advice is to explain to someone what happened with as much detail as possible. Get them to write the post to us. Seriously.

I'm sure if you ask around long enough you will find somewhere but keep in mind that most places are 1 tuner shops. So to go to 2 tuners would be quite a jump for them. Of course most shops have other guys as helping hands who like to try their hands at tuning so they'll also be waiting for a spot to open up - you might have to join these guys and let your skills push you to the front of the line. Then again, If you're any good I'd suggest you open your own business. Just remember that not very many are making much money at the end of the day (unless you want to do some chop-shop work on the side). Considering you are moving to Australia with a wife and child you best make sure you know what a liveable wage is over here. ie. rent, food prices, insurance, etc. You wouldn't want to be working for long earning less than $60k in Melbourne or Sydney. I mean there is something to be said for doing what you love but a half-decent wage is considered $80k+. Median wage in Melbourne/Sydney is around $75k. If there is a growing business over here it's in Euro cars mods, reflashes, diesels, DPF filter removal, etc. This is where being from Ireland might help. Modding Jap cars has become more about catering to the hard-core (ie. no money) crowd. FWIW: Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering is also considered a top-notch tuner. You got nothing to lose emailing him but I'm not saying he's taking anyone on. In saying that you probably won't get a reply. I didn't get a reply when I was looking for someone to tune my car after 2 emails and 2 phone calls.