Murray_Calavera

I ordered one with the battery LED option, you can see the additional $20 charge for that option on the invoice. There is no battery LED on my dash. None of the edges on the dash are straight. I don't know if my standards are too high, but I would expect where the IC7 sits to have a straight edge to sit flush with the IC7 display. It's hard to tell with the photos as the black doesn't make it easy to see. I'll get some photos taken with my IC7 mounted in it a bit later.

My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better.

The Link vs Haltech is a tough choice, I liken it a bit to Android (Link) vs Apple (Haltech). The Link gives you a bit more value but the Haltech stuff sure is pretty and very user friendly. Will you be installing sensors and tuning the thing yourself? If so, the main benefit for me is being able to drive to Haltech and work on the car with their tech's in person. Every time I visit Haltech I'm amazed at their customer support. It almost feels a bit naughty in a way, kinda like if I bought a turbo then turned around and asked the supplier to help me install it haha. I really can't overstate how amazing their customer support is. If your just giving the car to a workshop/tuner, I suppose whatever they prefer working on or can get a better deal on may sway your opinion.

Welcome! That looks like a really clean example, nice work getting your hands on it

Yep it's pretty annoying, they replied to my emails when I was spending money. I asked them about fitting LED lights, they got straight back to me. Now that I'm asking for an ETA... radio silence. What ECU are you using? The IC7 can't be fed the fuel level signal directly.

I've had my Haltech engine protection kick in twice now. Once during a drift event when I had a lean out. Probably saved the motor. Another time when my stupidity resulted in me having the wastegate perma-closed. Having infinity boost most certainly would have done some damage. The engine protection kicking in amazingly well and the boost spike only hit about 22ish psi with no harm done. Yeah I love my Haltech. I think it is money well spent. Sometimes having an ECU is like insurance - if you never make a claim it's money wasted right? But when it saves your ass again and again, it really feels priceless.

Hey mate, I still haven't started this job as I've been waiting for my 3D printed dash to arrive from Mako Motorsport... Been waiting about 2 months so far and they aren't replying to my emails =/ My install might be a bit different to yours, I ended up buying the Haltech fuel level sender signal conditioner so I'll be using voltage to build my fuel level table. I'll still post up what I end up doing after its all done and dusted. I'm getting tempted to put through a charge back for the dash and ordering one from 3dracingsolutions

I kinda feel like if you had this M2/3/4, you'd be running into similar issues anyway.

Just a handy tip for your AC compressor adventure The R33 series 1 gtst, series 2 gtst and GTR all have different AC components. If you are replacing the compressor and thinking about replacing other components, have a look and see what is available overall. I replaced every AC component in my series 1 gtst and it was a nightmare sourcing parts. If I had a time machine, I would have replaced it all with series 2 parts as they are much easier to find.

Well it's not black and white, if you torque it to ARP specs, then they will be below their yield point and the metal will 'spring back' and be reusable again. This is not a guarantee that they are as good as new, but typically they are fine to be used again. You can torque ARP studs to yield, it will clamp the head down tighter but now the studs are a one time use only. This isn't wrong, the mechanic may have a valid reason for wanting a higher clamp on the head. Without knowing how much torque has been put through them, I wouldn't risk using them again.

A big part of how reusable the ARP studs are is if they have been torqued beyond their yield point. Do you know the specs the head was torqued to before?

I don't think auto Skylines are cheaper. If you buy one you need to buy a manual gearbox and all the other components to install it. Definitely cheaper to buy an already manual skyline lol

Does this bad boy not work with the Elite? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011501-can-keypad/

I vote IC7, its so sexy

Here is a Youtuber with a RB25 and over 500hp for you - https://www.youtube.com/c/ClutchKickJunkies/videos Have a look at the RB25 dyno results page and see what mods people are running to achieve your power goals -

For problem 2, how long does the car run for before it dies? Is the tune locked? Are you wanting to plug a laptop in and sort the tune out yourself? I can help you troubleshoot the tune but if your not wanting to tune it yourself, the answer is going to be take it back to your tuner. I can't imagine they'll charge you for what is essentially warranty work.

I wonder if your counting one of the 'inlets' as the port for the vent? All catch can's will have at least 2 ports on them, an inlet and outlet. The outlet either gets a breather on it, venting to atmo as your intending to do. Or it gets a line on it that is connected to the intake to pull a vacuum through the catch can helping it to work better. I've attached a photo of a atmo venting catch can to help clear this up. If your wanting to keep the PCV valve, you might want to consider getting a catch can with 2 inlets and 1 vent on top. Feed the PCV line and also the red line you've circled to the 2 inlets on the can. Vent the top line to atmo. Just wondering, is there any reason you don't want to fit the outlet port back into the intake?

Even if the new sensor fixes the issue, it's worth playing with the multimeter when it arrives to figure out how it works and get comfortable with it. There are good instructional videos on youtube showing you what you can do with it.

I wish I could have come up with this myself... especially as I made up that water line =/ Could have got the proper size heat shielding too rather then putting -6 shielding on it to clear the fittings...

End result

Yep, I've flipped it around and put the heat shielding stuff on it too. I'll get a photo up a bit later.

I think your right. 3rd times the charm! Originally I was worried about it getting too close to the oil drain line, but the bit it's near is metal.

Ok, so taking on board everything said above - I've ended up with this. I'm thinking where the factory water bracket was, I can get a bracket made up to support the flexible oil and water lines that will run through there.

Those hard lines are a beautiful thing, who made those?

Hi all, I was wondering what the ideal way to route the turbo oil feed line is? The line that Tao supplied is so long it makes me think there is a particular reason for the length. I can only really think of 2 options, but both end up with a lot of excess line. I've attached a picture to show my thoughts. The squiggly lines aren't to scale but you get the idea lol