Murray_Calavera

Hi all, I was wondering what the ideal way to route the turbo oil feed line is? The line that Tao supplied is so long it makes me think there is a particular reason for the length. I can only really think of 2 options, but both end up with a lot of excess line. I've attached a picture to show my thoughts. The squiggly lines aren't to scale but you get the idea lol

Yep, no issues with fluid level. And I've checked the solenoid... Makes sense why there is no part number ...

Yep, that's what I was looking at. I still can't believe the solenoid is a non-serviceable item. Fingers crossed it turns out to be the HICAS ECU.

Yep makes sense, I'll start there. Is the solenoid a non-servicable item? I've been googling for ages and staring at steering rack parts diagrams on jp-carparts.com, I can't find the part. Surely you don't replace the entire power steering assembly if the solenoid fails?

Your google-fu is stronger then mine. I couldn't find anything similar to my issue when searching. Thanks for finding this for me, I'll give it a crack and see how I go.

Hi All, I have an issue with my power steering becoming heavy in my r33gtst. It only does it under these exact conditions - The car is driven from cold and brought up to normal operating temp. The engine is turned off for at least 5 or so minutes. When the engine is turned on again, the power steering is heavy. Sometimes it never goes back to normal, usually it goes back to normal after 20 to 30 minutes of driving, rarely it goes back to normal after a couple of minutes of driving. A typical situation of this issue popping up is refueling at a servo. When the car is started from cold and driven, you can drive for hours and the power steering is always perfect. I've done 100's of kilometres and provided the engine is never turned off, the power steering is fine. I don't know exactly how long the car needs to sit before the issue sorts itself out, however after the car has sat overnight, it is always perfect in the morning. Turning the car off and quickly back on never causes the power steering issue to pop up. While the power steering has been heavy, I've thrown the laptop on the Haltech and checked if the ECU was getting a power steering signal - looks like the signal is fine. I'm not sure where to start trouble shooting from here so any advice is much appreciated.

Any chance you know what the piston to cylinder wall clearance is?

Yep, plus using DTM connectors are such a luxury to work with compared to 30 year old brittle OEM connectors. If your only doing a few connectors, you can get open barrel pins to save you from buying a Deutsch closed barrel crimper.

@Unzipped Composites and @ActionDan when considering the price of the AR1's, are they any good from a value point of view? I haven't tried them yet but the price makes them quite attractive.

Doing a quick google I'd start somewhere like here - http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/ https://justjap.com/ https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/ Plenty of other good options as well

I'm suggesting you measure the rotors on your car. Pop a wheel off and throw a tape measure over the rotor. In a few minutes you'll know what size rotors you have then you can order pads/rotors from an Aussie site, plenty of sites to choose from.

What size are the rotors you have on there now?

If you still have the stock ecu and stock injectors, a good replacement would be their "G2" profile https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/ Maybe consider using one of their donor turbos to save you posting them your current turbo. I'm sure they can post a turbo to the states.

What brake pads were you running and how did they hold up vs the AR1's?

Seems like we are talking about different things here. The OP was talking about terminating a cable. Dose and I are suggesting that crimping the cable would be the ideal way to terminate a cable. When I asked about examples of using solder, I was talking about in the same scenario. So for example, the connector into the back of my ECU has a crimped pin, wire, into crimped pins into a sensor. There is no solder there. If you look at a mil-spec racing harness, there is no solder there. Plenty of crimps, Raychem DR25, Raychem SCL, Raychem ES, epoxy resin, molded boots, probably some Kapton tape and no solder. I don't care if my microwave has solder in it. We were talking about terminating a wire, that is in a car, that is subject to vibration and a potentially harsh environment.

Well... what are your thoughts on a single turbo setup, having everything that can be anodised black (painted whatever) everything is black black black and very factory looking... once it's on e85 emissions are easy... What's the worst that could happen?

Thanks for the detailed reply, really appreciate it! I thought NSW was bad, I'd move states for sure if I had to deal with that.

It sounds like your in California? If you wanted the car to be street legal and have a single turbo, what would that involve? I'm guessing it's not as simple as having the car certified by an engineer? (sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm over in Aussie land and not familiar with your processes)

Did you have the car running perfectly on the lt10 before moving over to the lt8?

Can you give me some examples of when the OEM or professional motorsport teams are using solder?

Yep, park in a clear way and see what happens lol

It seems like this theft business is seriously worrying you. Keep in mind that if someone wants to take your car; they will. Your car will be on the back of a tow truck and gone in a few minutes. There is no anti-tow-truck alarm or immobiliser system. So if this is worrying you, some things to think about. Do you want GPS tracking with a notification system? Maybe just keep your agreed insurance value up to date?

I was really worried about cracking or damaging the connector doing that, maybe I'll just put my careful hat on and give it a shot.

Hi All, I'm having issues removing the connectors from my injectors, I was hoping to get some ideas before I consider pulling the inlet manifold off. I've got connectors 1, 2 and 6 off. These are the final 3 causing me drama. I'm squeezing the connector release as hard as I can but it needs more force then what I can do by hand. Should I spray the connector with contact cleaner or is there a tool I can use to get more leverage on the connector?

The only people that would know what a Plazmaman cooler is are enthusiasts... but if your an enthusiast, how could you bring yourself to do that... F*King can't believe it =/