89CAL

If you have aftermarket injectors, does that mean you are going to cut the old harness out, fit a plug to the engine side, buy the new sub-harness, fit that then fit injector connector adapters? If so why not just make the harness yourself and fit plugs that will go straight onto the injectors you have? Otherwise, to me, it seems a bit silly. Your going to have plugs everywhere when you could have made it nice and neat

Ive been told the plazmaman intercooler is the way to go but they are just so damn expensive. I need a new one. Pretty sure mine isnt anything special. One of the early GKtech kit coolers Need to get heat out of my engine bay as well. Awful lot of heatsoak but i dont have the problem of the piping running over the engine etc

The fan is held on with m6 studs and nuts As for the bleed screw, couldnt tell you. Havent had one on my car for a while. Are you missing one or want to replace yours?

GTR, Series 1 or series 1.5-2 spoiler?

1 Year on from any activity here...... Noone in Mackay has a Skyline anymore?

timing light, get a spare plug lead (or buy a cheap one from supercheap) then put the lead between the plug and coilpack number 1 (may need to stick a bolt or something in the coilpack to make contact with the coil and the lead) then put the timing light on the lead. Check timing, should be 15 +/- 1 degree at 650rpm. It says to disconnect the throttle position sensor in the manual I have, I'm pretty sure this locks the timing. If the car is over fueling I would double check your plugs, they may be fouled anyway, check for boost leaks and clean the AFM (maybe even check for dry solder joints) The info is on here to do all this. go to google and search that way - "what you want to search for " site:www.sau.com.au

Whats done to the car? Have you done the simple things like changed fuel filter, checked/replaced spark plugs, checked timing with timing light? Start with the basics and go from there. You might find something along the way In regards to the TPS. There are two parts to it. One is a switch and one is a potentiometer. The recommeded voltage for the potentiometer is 0.44-0.46V or so, This is easy enough to adjust. The switch should be closed at idle from memory and then open off idle, I'm pretty sure they are a 2 pin plug Does it smell like its over-fueling or blow black smoke? You may have a boost leak as well

My car did funny stuff after fitting then removing an atmo bov (back when it was stock and i was cool) and i messed around with everything. Reset the ECU then it was back to normal

Coilpacks good? Spark plugs good (and gapped properly)?

Hey Stao, how is the new version of the SS2 different, and how much time/cost would it take to upgrade mine to the new spec (If possible)? I'm hoping I can keep the turbine housing as mine is modded for the external gate, if its too much of a hassle I'm more then happy with the way it performs now, more just curious about details on upgrading Thanks

Are you determined for it to be done on the East coast? If not the guys at FC-Hako are pretty damn good with them. They are over west though

Ive silver soldered the inside of the fitting then drilled it out to desired size . Bit less dodgy then gluing.

Excuse the crap photos, and im also in the process of making better brackets for this, but this is how it is attatched at the moment RHS (only have one bracket on here atm) This is the front middle mount. Hole drilled through into the boot and nut and bolted. There are also mounts on the left and right but from memory i think there might be threaded holes there The rear mount is picked up with a bracket that bolts under the number plate

ATC were very helpful and the kit was great. They also sorted out some of the other parts I needed They got my business because of great customer service and reasonable pricing. 4 years on and not a problem with the gearbox

If you dont know the best place to buy parts from yet, you haven't researched enough

Ah i see i misread that. You mean the HICAS hub has a bad connection? The boss only bolts the steering wheel to the column. There is 1 wire within that for the horn. Or is that the one your talking about?

If the relay is working then there is a disconnection in the wire post relay. Either trace the wire and find the break or run a new wire. Have you checked voltage out of the relay? Is voltage going into the switched side of the relay? As far as i can see you've done the hardest part l, the rest should be easy. Given that the horn should always be available, worst case if the relay is working you can run direct power feed to one side of the switched side of the relay, run a new wire from the relay to the horn and run another wire from the horn to chassis ground

I got a kit from ATC in brisbane. Was just bearings and gaskets but they were also able to supply some of the synchros etc after i asked about them Bearing kit was $300 or so? Cant really remember was quite a few years ago. I think it may have been less than that

I dont have an rb20 wiring diagram but the rb25 wiring shares a common power feed between all 6 injectors and all are separately grounded through the ECU. Any reason why you are using an rb20 harness? More curious then anything. I would put a meter on it and check the wires are going to the right place on the ECU. And also make sure that there isnt a break in the circuit. Also check that they are all getting a good circuit from the Ignition relay If this is fine then you will need to look at the ECU side. Is the ECU being grounded properly (what sort of ECU is it, is it setup correctly?)

I dont see why. It runs off its own ECU But ive never dealt with A-LSD. And that makes me happy

I believe the only difference is the CAS engagement. I think I looked into it a while ago because I wanted to upgrade the CAS to the Hitachi type. As long as you get the late R33 RB25 cam, it still runs hydraulic lifters, where as the NEO one runs the Hitachi CAS but solid lifters. As above, its only the late R33's that this applies to, Early series 2's still ran the old style CAS. If you look at the catalog of Tomei cams, you see there is one for a 2 year range of R33's around 97-98

Nissan......

When you say you used to get 47 knock, do you mean every time you drove the car or thats the max you ever saw? If you were getting 47 frequently, either there is some Phantom knock being picked up or the tune wasnt the best. If its the later then the slightly worse fuel will be emphasising this It needs a retune or you need to import good fuel......

if you do data init on the power fc it will return completely to factory settings which means no locks and all the maps/settings will go back to what they are from factory. If the car hasnt been tuned at all on the power FC then its probably worth doing anyway. Just keep in mind you will lose any settings you've changed on it Doesn't L-Jetro run AFM still?

Im guessing you have turned map tracer on so have you started a log when trying to use it? F1 or f2 or something starts a log or you can also select it from the drop down menu Your using a d-jetro pfc? Base map should be there. Has the power fc been tuned by a workshop or used by someone else? Perhaps the base map was locked previously Given that it wont work in fc-edit or fc-pro i dont think its a software issue. What dongle are you using?