Piggaz

The engine side of the gearbox you can modify that to accept a filter then modify the snorkle to feed air over it. It ain't a 5 minute mod though. I don't know the part number for the filter. Haven't gotten that far. Also tickle the alloy pipes that bolt to the comp housings. I've sent you those pics before I think.

In going with incorrectly installed fuel pump.

Does it still do it with a full tank?

Can't see an 8375 do 7-800 whp. You've asked for recommendations for 450 whp that's "responsive". Two posts later you want 7-800 whp "later". Which one is it?

You want 450 whp with a turbo that's rated between at 82 lb/min. Try again. A bit of REsearch might help here.

As Brett said, tickle the stockers. There is no gains to be made here and you won't be ripping them off to replace/fix them when they fail.Take that money and buy yourself a front diff.

Never driven my car under 380 kw with the front diff in. That was the run in tune. However, I think it's a case of not knowing what you're missing. I thought the same thing...until I got it in there.

Day to day driving you don't even know you have a aftermarket diff installed. There is no clunking, banging of harshness of ANY kind (it's gears, not plates like a "normal" diff).... That is until you put your foot down around a corner and you have all this front end grip that you never had before. A GTR engine should not go back in without one of these installed, period. I only wish I did it 7 years ago instead of 2. The best mod and should be one of the first done, V spec or not!

It's not so much the 0.6 of a litre, it's the leverage on the crank. 16.3 mm it's heaps. You just wait

Got an overlay, Pete?

Going off my wideband they were fine (which I'm sure Brett is referring to in his post). The old wreck Sard 800's were 10 times more grumpy than the ID2000's are.

With the old wrecks of injectors (Sards, Rochester, whatever else) that was an issue. Today with the ID/Bosch 14V's for example, it's not really an issue. Look at that. ID 2000's on a pissy 1.8 NA.

I'm at work . It's a wise idea to leave some headroom. Crazy not to IMO.

Duty cycle is as a % how long the injector is open for per squirt.

Hypergear thread. Have a read.

Have you tried another gauge? Maybe that one just reads low? I agree with Johnny. If it's still running well just keep flogging it. A stock replacement engine is cheap enough.

A lot more to it than just "x turbos plus x boost = x power"

Why do you want to keep the 26?

You're buying pistons and rods, (and in your case another 2.6 L crank, then paying for it to be screwed together anyway. What's a little more for a bigger crank? It really is a no brainer.

Farken type B's.

Any test dummies yet?

Haha. Poor guy .

Have you considered something like a GTX 63 or 67 mm machined into stock style housings? It's been done before and will give a much better result. There have been a few guys that have done that on here.

Breathing all good?