KiwiRS4T

More power. Biggest thing for cornering was a spare set of wheels with 17in full slicks - in combination with Cusco front camber arms set to 3 deg neg (not suitable for street though as it soon chews out the road tyres).

Massive rear anti-roll bar! e.g. Whiteline BNR11 XX 24mm Z Hmm I see you already have some - what size did you get? Quaife front LSD will help!

Don't worry about the hp - a little more boost will get you a little more power. Decat won't do much without a 3in front pipe. You probably won't find anyone to "remap" your ecu you will be looking for a Nistune chip or similar when you start changing turbos. There is a ton of info on this site - search first. If you can't figure out the search function just google the question - often you will be referred back to this site anyway.

You're on the right track. What kind of oil pump are you using? I would go for 1.2mm restrictor if there's just one or 2 x 1.0mm.

No. As I said if I thought there was a likelihood of that happening (e.g. traces of oil in the line to the turbo inlet) I would have put an air/oil separator in the line. My catch can seems to do what its intended to do.

Quite right. I and a number of others have found that with the right combination of restrictors, sump breathers and a properly designed catch can system the problems can be overcome. My catch can vents to the turbo intake so is a completely sealed system. If there had been oil laden fumes going into the turbo I would have added another air/oil separator into that line but there was no evidence of that being necessary.

Racefab have exported to happy customers in Australia and the US: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-874138805.htm http://racefab.co.nz/

Here's one ready made: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-874139504.htm

There is no doubt that dry sump is the best way to go. You should be able to put it together for not much more than the $6k you mention although you can spend a lot on hoses and connectors.

I would expect to pay over $1000 for a full flex tune (E85, 98 and anywhere inbetween). It is a very time consuming exercise if done properly. But there should be no surprises. A good shop should be able to give you a reasonably close estimate (not a fixed quote) before you start. When you get the car back it should start and run properly and any problems related to the tune should be fixed for the price already paid. Obviously i have never dealt with your shop but it seems to me that once you have the car sorted you should in the future try somewhere else for a tune if you need or want a different tune.

Yes rich people and serious racers use dry sump on the Rb26 (and RB30) but for the rest of us a proper closed system works fine. I can't believe anyone would knowingly dump oil on the track. They wouldn't last long over here. If you got anywhere near the end of the oil control thread Marcus you will have found a consensus on what works short of dry sumping it.

The reason I suggested you would need to change the sensor is that I suspect that the stock sensor will not react quickly enough to save your engine. If you do intend to stick with the stock sensor I suggest you at least get a brand new one.

You almost certainly have a stock ecu. Replace the stock bov (the HKS won't give you any more power) and sell the HKS Bov and the turbo timer (not needed). If you can figure out how to get the boost controller working and set it to 10 -11 psi that will be the optimum for now and you can have a read around this forum on how to get more power if you want (the secret is pretty simple: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$). Don't buy any more parts until you have got a handle on what really is necessary and what is not.

The size of the power cable is not related to the size of your stereo - it needs to carry a 300amp starting current. Run it inside the car.

The intake pipe is not under pressure so not a boost source. You can drill and tap the turbo compressor or fit a nipple to the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. The bleed from the solenoid should not be blocked off but can still run to the nipple in the bov return pipe if that is still connected ...and put the stock bov back if you have a stock ecu.

Definitely worth bypassing the boost controller with some form of T instead if you haven't already - there is a 2 stage boost in the auto - low and not quite so low.

The return just drains down through the head and block does it not? - Apparently not - ref Ben below!! The supply can be T'eed off the oil pressure sender: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-871511112.htm

I really don't know why people want two boost levels when you can regulate boost with your right foot... and I don't know abut "relaxing the timing" I always thought that you want as much advance as it takes to make it go best.

I suspect you will have to replace the stock sensor with something a bit more sophisticated such as this: http://www.nzefi.com/product/oil-pressure-sensor-0-150-psi/ which tells you that 0.5v = 0psi and 4.5v = 130psi

Actually looking at method 2 for single turbo it would be worth a try. But get a stronger spring. How much boost do you want?

Did you have the engine running at the same time?

I have no experience either but I believe these turbos will make over 500kw at more than 40psi so would be keen to see it at around 30 psi. You could have some fun for a while and then turn it down if it is too much of a pig as a DD. Of course a good outcome is what the owner (who is paying for all this) sees as good.

For tuning purposes 2wd or awd doesn't matter. The numbers will be a little different but they are just numbers.

Maybe they took your "street tune" too literally. Rips is getting 1000awkw from the Nitto 3.2 (albeit with a massive turbo and a few other bits) but I would be looking for around 450awkw for a good streetable result with your gear. If you are happy with the way it drives fair enough but if you get a hankering for a little more give the tuner a ring and ask what he would/could do and charge to up the boost and kw. If you are not convinced by his answer consider trying another tuner. I don't know where you live and can only personally guarantee three tuners over here but I suspect if you could get to Status or Guilt Toy they would get you results. I am sure members could point you to other tuners as well. It is possible that as the engine builders as well as the tuners they tuned massively conservatively so that you can't blow the engine but that should not be necessary.

I too like the look of the series 1 but the series 2 has the advantage of an easily modified ecu which is a major headahe with S1. S1 has RB25DET from R33 S2 has RB25DET Neo engine from R34 - better head and turbo - more power.