KiwiRS4T

Took my car to Pukekohe yesterday (its going to be closed for a few months as they do it up for the Auckland round of the Aussie touring car series). ATM I have 280awkw but annoyed to find it still not good enough to beat my mate's Subaru WRX RA version. They were a lightweight rally special with over 200awkw and I expected him to beat me in the corners but I couldn't catch him in a straight line either. My timer packed up so my only lap time was a 1.20.4 and I was hitting 240km/hr at the end of the back straight. Next step (when I have the cash) is a couple of reground cams and a full tune - aiming for something like 330kw or hopefully a bit more.

If you want / need you can replace the stock aircond fan with a thinner aftermarket one.

I would have thought if you have stock cams you would be better off with VCT.

Time for a compression test (and possibly depending on the result) - leakdown test.

I'm quite keen on getting some AEM "smart coils" after reading about them on here. They seem quite good value for money. http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil-1240

To answer your original question the cheapest HKS turbo timer is around AU$100 so its definitely a cheap knock - off. I threw out the turbo timer that was in my original Stagea with stock turbo and the turbo was still fine when I later upgraded and sold it...no sign of cold air damage!

You couldn't have searched very hard - Google gave me 144,000 results including this one: Blown Junk eBay Chinese Evo III 16G Turbo / Talon Eclipse DSM ... www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLzUn9J7ricCached You +1'd this publicly. Undo22 Jun 2010 – Customer turbo with less than 5k on it. This is what you're getting for $200 on eBay, folks....I wouldn't trust one as far as I could throw it.

Just turn it off - I do. With my rather noisy exhaust I don't like to annoy my neighbours anyway by booting it up the street. At the track just do a cool down lap open the bonnet to check all is well and then turn it off.

I have had that problem before but I don't think I have it now. When your heater core is leaking your windscreen steams up all the time and you should (I can't remember though it was 4 -5 years ago) notice that the coolant level is going down.My coolant level stays the same and I think water only comes in when it rains hard or I wash the car so I think my current problem is elsewhere.

Yes the RB26 bov bolts straight on where the RB25 one goes. The oulet is bigger though so you will have to adapt the hose somehow. The RB26 bov flows more and is much more robustly constructed as you will see if you get one.

I have learned a lot from Gary's contributions and probably saved myself from wasting money in a number of different areas. Having said that there is a wealth of information in these forums - thanks be to the internet! (Yes I'm old enough to remember a time when it didn't exist!)

Rip off -$1000 and you still have to buy the pumps? How much power do you want? Are you going to run a surge tank (I'm guessing not)?

This one should bolt straight in: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=522793338

Plus must be well set up and driven - 10.2 is a good time - I know a few cars can't get below mid to high tens with 500awkw.

Had this problem - checked all the fuese under the dash - all ok. Then checked all the fuses under the bonnet and it was the one marked tail lights.

Here's a brand new 100 amp one for less than what it would cost for a rebuild over here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-100amp-HR33-GTS-RB25DE-2-5L-R31-RB30E-3-0L-6-Cyl-Bosch-Alternator-/160882378754?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2575564802

There is on one the front (illustrated) and one on the back but I can't remember where as my set-up is different now:

No early Nissans are not OBDI or II. You need something like the ecutalk cable (or buy the display if you haven't got a laptop): http://www.ecutalk.com/ In my Stagea the consult plug is behind the coin tray next to the fusebox.

It does on my Stagea (just clears the strut bar as well)!!

What pic?

??Yes of course they are two different measurements but directly related - a higher compression ratio will result in higher cylinder compressions ergo a low cylinder compression reading in a good motor (leak down test shows my motor is sound) is indicative of a low CR .Have you actually read the RB30 pdf in the RB 30 section?

Like this

Loom needs to match the ecu (which needs to be suitable for the engine). Skyline would be better than Stagea if you can find one

Which bit don't you believe? As per the RB30 pdf stock pistons with rb25 non neo head will result in about 8.2:1 and I have measured my compressions at around 132psi per cylinder which is in line with what others have got. The slightly smaller capacity of the Neo head will not raise the compression ratio very much - don't have the fugure to hand - maybe one of the people who have a neo head can report.Here's one: Rank: RB25DET urtwhistle 627 posts #13 Posted 08 June 2012 - 02:28 PMHey theres nothing wrong with using a neo head I know I have. I used ACL 8.5:1 pistons on my 1st motor and Mahle 8.5:1's on my second. On the second I decked the head and also decked the block to a 0 deck height. standard nissan rb25 head gasket & I also run BP98 with no problems. I don't think you will have any problems unless your trying to put 65 psi of boost into it. but hey thats just my experience so far.