GTSBoy

You mean size or brand/spec?

Or there is some fuzz in one or more of your measurements. Shaft speed could be wrong....

Probably misunderstanding. The compressor map should be viewed as a statement of fact. If the shaft speed is Z and the PR is Y, then the flow on the X axis that corresponds to that operating point is what the turbo is flowing. That flow is happening regardless of the restriction caused by the EMAP. If the EMAP were some different value and your turbo was operating at that same point, the flow would still be the same value. Make sense? I think the element of surprise exhibited by other posters above is that the operating point you describe sounds like you shoudl be making more power than you think you are, which starts to throw some doubt on the factiness of the compressor map (or perhaps the measurements you have to put the operating point on the map).

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first. But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die. You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

Seems logical. Go looking for it. The manual shows you what you're looking for.

A good one is tall and narrow, not shallow and wide.

This is combo P & T right? So the actual most important use of that sensor is P, with T being not quite as vital to know. The place to measure P is at the supply side to the engine. You want to know what pressure the bearings are seeing.

No offence intended to the OP, by the way.

And also to moderate/mediate the various threads started with "I wanna get a seq box and woz thinkin ppg but the horror storiez bro".

The whine is barely audible in your video. There were some alarming clacking noises early in the video. The fan WILL come off with the radiator in place. We've all done it. Fan shroud off. Small ratchet. Job done.

Well, 2 points about that need to be made. 1. The factory compressor bypass valve doesn't do very much to relieve stress on the turbo, largely because that is not why it is there. It is not really a BOV. Keep in mind that the factory boost pressure on R32 RB20s is only 10 psi, and on RB25s is only ~7 psi. This is not enough boost to justify a "BOV" for the purposes of venting excess pressure in the intake tract. The reality is that the factory "BOV" is a compressor bypass valve. It is intended to be open when there is some vacuum in the inlet manifold, so that the intake air can go around the compressor instead of through it. This unloads the compressor (so there is less power required to drive it) so that it can and will be spun up to a higher speed just under those "cruise" conditions than it would if the air had to go through the comp wheel. Thus, when you add throttle opening and would like some boost, it is closer to making boost than it would have been. It is simply a device for improving response. Which is exactly what people claim it is for, just with the wrong reasoning behind it. 2. You will barely notice the absence of the bypass valve and many people claim that they actually work better without it anyway. So, don't panic. But fit a stocker if you like.

Welcome. But Don't do this.

Normal on every car.

50 shot of nitrous.

Are you asking what the procedure is? Is not the next thing to just type in to google - "ring bedding procedure" ?

Yes, hence why I suggested that the rings were not bedded in properly. There is a procedure to make a new engine work properly. If you do not follow it, you will glaze the bores and you can forget about it every being any good after that.

So, either the rings haven't been bedded in and it is burning oil, or it is running pig rich.

Say what? What does the colour of the sump matter? And the inlet side is the RHD driver's side of the engine....where the inlet plenum sits. Exhaust on the LHS.

f**king lots. Like, hundreds of amps. That's why car batteries are rated in CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) and those numbers are large.

Buy Radical, do it to that.

It is best that you put the gearbag back into the car and sit the engine as it will be installed, rather than trying to emulate the correct angle with blocks of wood and internet advice. Just do the work.

Yes, I fear the consumption rate of spares like that has ramped up since the various US and Euro owners have started in on them.

Gates are famous for it. Nowhere near as good as Pitwork/Nissan.

That logic doesn't really follow. The ports on the NA head are small. At least big holes in the gasket to suit the torque killer manifold that you're using won't get in the way.

Well, think about what you know that IS different between the engines (ie, the tiny tiny inlet ports) and what is not different (ie, the bore diameter and spacing!) and....