GTSBoy

These are not consistent statements, assuming that the comp tester is working correctly. There is no reason why a well built, not worn out RB20 shouldn't return >150 psi and really it should be >160. Something is f**ked. Whether it was rebuilt by someone who just didn't give a shit about piston/bore clearances, roundness, rings gaps, etc, or never bedded in properly, the comp tester is telling you lies, etc.

Hardly.

When you hit a pedestrian, explosive charges pop the rear of the bonnet up to provide more crumple space above the engine to soak up the pedestrian/car energy to reduce injury. These are, obviously, self destructive and need replacing after such a thing. There are hundreds of posts by V series owners on here whinging about it. Look them up.

Especially considering that this has been generally known since the mid 90s.

Ha. You're about 15 years too late for that to be realistic.

25 years of discussion on these topics. Do some searching on here first. I have personally posted thousands of words on the matter.

Given that the seats themselves won't be legal.......

Interesting. Probably worth your while to consider getting the calipers off, stripped down and checked out. Some new seals might be justified. See if the pistons are all moving freely, etc etc.

Oh, I'm interested for Nistune, but I don't have time to play with my car these days. Too much f**king work all the time.

Damned inclined gravity caused by the speed of light.

Oh, I did misread. Either the AFM wiring is not right, or the idle control wiring (or the IACV) is not right. Or, the million other random things it could be a car that has been hacked apart and then hacked back together. Seriously, just one wrong wire somewhere could cause all this.

RB25DET ECU is the wrong choice. There are sooooooo many differences. Use the 20 ECU. And the 20 AFM.

Multimeter will tell you where the power is and where it isn't.

HICAS is shit. Just buy a delete kit and move on with life.

Obviously the sarcasm simply did not register.

Fingers crossed.

No. Body wiring not same same, so you will have to do some fixups.

Just use stock Nissan.

If the yellow line is on the top - the highest part, then there. But I would think it would be a flat gasket, maybe 6mm wide and 1.5mm thick, stuck up in the lid against the inside top.

I never leave a manual parked in gear. Accidental key turning can result in panel damage because there is no neutral inhibit on a manual. The handbrake is there for a reason.

The lid gasket would pretty clearly go in the part of the lid that contacts the top edge of the reserviour......

Maybe. Although it is so much more likely NOT to be dirty. It is much more likely to be a bad solder joint inside it onto the loom plug contacts. Google fixing that. Has to be cut open and soldered by someone who has enough of an idea what they're doing. And then siliconed closed again. Again, maybe. The coils might be fine. It could be dirty/broken loom plugs here too. Swappsies with a known good set of coils is the only/best way to try to pin it on the coils or related wiring.

Fixed that for you?

If you're going to balance the rotating assembly, then you need to balance the whole rotating assembly. In an ideal build, you balance the pistons so that they are all the same weight, you balance the rods so that they are all the same and the piston/rod combos are the same. Then you balance the crank with the assumption that the identical piston/rod combo is hanging off of each. There is no way that you would go to the effort of balancing the crank to suit unmatched piston/rod combos. By the same token, the are any number of engines that have been slung back together with completely unmatched/unbalanced parts. It's all a matter of what you want to achieve. Bazzilion revs? Balance it. Minimise losses? Balance it? Drive it to the shops below 4000rpm 99% of the time? Save some money (by not spending as much on balancing).

Do you know what detonation sounds like? Do you know what lean backfires sound like? Do you know how to google to put it into diagnostic mode and find out what the ECU is trying to tell you?