GTSBoy

And aren't foxes red?

Yuh. Try it both cold and also at ~70°C. It might not lose pressure when cold, but might when warm.

Shouldn't make any difference if it is a patrol or not. Are you using the RB25 ECU? The ECU runs the VCT, so all you have to do is make sure that; a) the ECU to solenoid wiring is correct, and b) you have the ECU satisifed in all the things it needs to make VCT work. The one that usually catches people out is that the ECU must have a valid speed signal from the dashboard (which originates at the speed sender on the gearbox, but the one the ECU needs is generated by the speedo head).

No. No.

Or, in relation to a hot looking slart to which you would give a torrid 30s of thrusting...."hit it like a red-headed step-child".

Yes, there should be pressure even at ~70°C. Not a lot, but some.

Also, that's not how cooling systems work. Radiators, fans, thermostats.

Or.... you could just go straight for the good ones.

Ouch. Please take any comfort you can from the fact that we do send good thoughts towards people we hear about in these situations - even if we're too far away to do much else.

No I suspect when the GTRs surrounding the sequentials (that get transplanted in in the coming sequential craze) get drifted into roadside furniture.

Upgrade. Not stock.

It's a bit of a different thing though. H pattern dog box because you need something strong enough to handle monster torque. Sequential because you want snick-snick gearchanges (along with possibly the same strength as an H pattern dog box). The snick-snick is cool. Just not without cost (both $ and utility).

if the proposal is to put a turbo larger than 60lb/min on it at any time then you should budget on replacing the crank damper. It's a reasonable bet that you'll want one for a 26 if you use the 26 crank - but don't trust me on that, as I haven't played with both to know the differences. If you're going to want to make stupid power than you're looking at at least Camtech or Kelford cams with as much lift as the Neo head can be made to swallow (without shitting shims out! they are shim over bucket, remember), and at least 264° duration. Don't f**k about with Jap cams. If you're putting cams in, just put springs in too - especially if going for the largest workable lift and longer duration. There's no easily defined boost/rev/threshold for this. It just makes sense to do it.

To be fair, if I was awash with cash from my retail disco-bikkie sales network, I'd be wanting a sequential in my 32. Although, that would prevent me from doing my usual 1 - 3 - 5 or 2 - 4 - 5 traffic shifts.

Better the 2nd time around.

Dunno about videos. 2D line drawings are clearer than blurry cameraphone footage of the underside of a GTR plenum anyway,

I think once you are willing to spend billet block money on an RB in a Skyline, you are way the f**k into "why bother with an RB?" territory. Spend half the money and put an AMG V12 in it or something. Surely there can't be enough drug money going around to justify billet blocks for street Skylines.

Maybe. It depends on how the MAC has been plumbed up. The correct thing to do is to just make it like the vac hose diagram in the service manual. It's really clearly laid out.

Fours 'n' More, Pooraka. Very long experience with these cars. Has been doing these sorts of inspections a lot lately.

Don't worry about optics. They're just too bloody big to work nicely. You really want rubber bands for tyres?

Yeah, well if I owned one I don't think I could overcome the inertia required to do it myself. I only went 25Neo in my R32 because it was actually quite trivial - having had the original auto box banished many years before and being mostly just a case of swapping the looms.

Quality post. ^ This is a good reason why I say NA Skylines are only suitable for LS3 conversions. If you're going to have to go through bullshit to try to get 30 year old tech working, you might as well just strip it all out and make a 5 year old BIG V8 work.

CU is Control Unit. ECU is Engine CU. TCU is Transmission CU. etc.

I don't understand. That is not stretching the tyres onto the wheels at all. The correct tyre size for an 8.5 " wheel would be 235 or 245. A stretch would be a 225. Cramming a 265 on there is a big, baggy bulbour 1970s style fitment.

Yes, that is the definition of Nissan Consult. All the CUs are on the bus. Any Snap-On, or similar scan tol, as possessed by ANY decent mechanic these days, WILL read all the CUs. I worked out what was wrong with my HICAS using a workshop grade scan tool.....20 years ago.