GTSBoy

Sigh. Us 93MON broadly equivalent to 98RON.

From where? I think I recall telling you that there aren't really any still in the wild. All the ones in Japan were bought up by speculators and Americans until they could bring them in under the 25 yr rule.

Aaaaahhhhhhhhggghhghgh. My eyes!

They only go hard above 5000rpm. Everywhere else they suck.

The main question is....do you like driving something that sounds like a tractor? I wouldn't buy an Evo for that reason alone. The other reasons include the fact that it's just a bloody Lancer to look at. Doesn't matter how much vented bonnet-xenon-light-flared guards-Enkeis-carbonfibre they have strapped on them. They're just a Lancer like all the Lancers with fake Evo stuff strapped on. Recaros don't make the interior nice. They're nice seats, but they don't make the interiror a nice place to be. (Not that I'm suggesting that an R32 is a nice place to be either. We're talking the same vintage as VN Commodore here. The interior plastics On R32s were always nothing special, and now they're 30 years old, to boot.). For Evo money there are dozens of cars that I would choose instead. Almost all of them V8. Some of them even German - and I do not really want a Euro car. Certain Ford Focii are a definite blast to drive, for example. For GTR money, I would find myself hard pressed not to look to an RX7. And that's with me not knowing the first thing about keeping a rotary alive. But S6-8 RXs are bloody awesome. Also stupid money, but we're talking about deliberately buying a GTR at this point, so I refuse to concede to logic on this. For GTR money.....suitably depreciated options include Mustangs. Totally left field, and a bit of a minefield to pick through the various things to avoid (and the problem of looking like a Mustang owner). But still..... the car would only be a few years old. AMGs have superchargers. I just thought that I'd mention that.

Ethanol price not connected to price of crude oil.

Install and watch oil temp gauge. Then start worrying about it.

The rules for GTR ownership have always been the same. If you think you can afford to buy one, double that value number and then think again. Because every GTR has the potential to cost you double what you paid for it in the first few years.

Not really. Remember, the thermostat does nothing to cool the fluid. It just lets it through. Logically, if you covered all except for 10% of your radiator with cardboard, the fact that the thermostat cracks at 76° won't do anything to stop it from overheating. It is the cooling capacity of the cooler that determines that. And so, the size of the coolant radiator and the size of the oil cooler core and the relative amounts of heat that need to be dumped out through these and the relative capacity to dump heat are somewhat unrelated. You put a little oil cooler on and it will do wonders, up to a point. Then it won't be able to cope. Bigger cooler will keep oil T under control until some higher load. Then it too won't be big enough. A little perspective. I have a Neo. Stock oil/water HX under the filter, but with a sandwich plate added for oil T sensor. Aftermarket radiator. No oil cooler otherwise. Neo thermostat runs about 10° hotter than vanilla 25's TS. So, just in completely normal operation, almost** regardless of the season, my oil temp shows ~90°C, which, given the oil-water HX, is pretty much the expected water temperature too. The target coolant T for a Neo is in the order of 90-92°, or something like it. **In summer though, when it is really hot, my oil T will often be up at about 100°C. The oil-water HX can't move any more heat into the coolant, and the coolant is probably hotter too. And when it is really really hot weather, my oil T will be up at 110°C after everything is settled down to a steady state. And I would presume that my coolant is quite a lot higher than 100°C too. And when it is really really really f**king hot weather, my oil T will often peak at ~120°C as I get home after a ~30km drive from work in the afternoon. But that's fine. I'm not thrashing it. I'm just driving it. All of the above ignores use of air-con. If I have the AC running then the worst case temps in the above list will happen at lower ambient temps. Another mental note is that all of the above was with a different radiator than I have now. So we will have to wait until summer to find out if the new radiator is worse/same/as good.

Kudos, Amayama, JustJap, various others, all stock Nissan/Pitowrk parts. You can also get them from numerous vendors on eBay. I don't even bother, for stuff like this. I just get my bro-in-law to buy them (he's a mechanic w/ shop) and he gets them from his usual suppliers. If you're not going to tackle the actual swapping of the parts (and these are reasonable sized tasks, so I'd guess you might not) then just getting the mechanic to source them for you will make him a little happier, as he will make some markup on the parts. Most mechanics are only so-so happy to fit owner supplied parts. They'll do it, but they won't like you for it!

I assume that you just need to change rack ends and upper ball joints. There are no "aftermarket" as in "modified" "upgraded" parts for those. There are "aftermarket" as in "3rd party" with some being equivalent to genuine Nissan/Pitwork and some being obvious cheap nasty China quality. If you're asking about other suspension arms, like upper and lower control arms and caster rods, then there are many options. Only some of them make sense (financial, or technical). But that's not what you were asking about, was it?

BM44? BM50? BM57?

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480462-rb25det-neo-compression-test-reference/

A. Done pre-NCOP. B. or, not driven on the street. C. or, no f**ks given, drive it on the street anyway. There are plenty of f**kwits around.

Is that better than an RB20 camshaft?

No electric diff in R32. But, I had forgotten that the floor & gearbox mounts were different also! One more shell difference to add to the list.

Oh, I'm not arguing against putting a bigger core in it, or otherwise improving the cooling power. Go for your life on that. Just pointing out that I don't think a half second of continuing temperature rise after you back off is all the fault of the "slow" IAT sensor.

Crack temp and hold temp are not the same thing. There's a whole mass and energy balance thing going in between the engine dumping heat into the oil and the cooler dropping it out. Just because the TS cracks at 70 does not mean that the cooler has any hope of holding the oil at that temperature. The factors at play are the "effective HTUs" of the core, which is comprised of the oil temperature and the cooling power of the ambient air flowing across it (more oil T drives HTUs up, less oil T drives HTUs down, likewise, more and colder ambient air flow drives HTUs up and vice versa). Against an ambient air T of, say 35°C, you only get ~half the HTUs out of the core at 70°C oil T as you would with 100+°C oil T. So even though you may see the 70°C crack T as being horribly low, it actually gives quite a soft start to the cooling power, which ramps up as the oil gets hotter (both because the TS opens more and as the hotter oil drives more heat transfer out of the core).

Well, it's as fast as you're gunna get, isn't it? It is always going to lag the real temperature if that happens to be changing as boost increases, intercooler heats up and rpm is changing by several hundred per second. As long as +/-10°C isn't going to kill anything, you should be OK. And....another significant factor. The intercooler stores heat. When you load it up under a boost run then back off, the heat in the cooler transfers into the air coming through. You have a lot less air coming through when you back off, so it is reasonable to expect the core to drop a bit more heat into each unit of air and thus raise the temp of that air up very close to the core's temp, for those first second or so after you come off the hammer.

Old 2nd hand turbos are a risk. That turbo could be fine, or it could be f**ked. If it's f**ked in a way that you can't tell before you install, then you waste all the money spent on taking the car apart and putting it back together. Doubled, because you have to put the original turbo back on. If it is f**ked in such a way that it dies 10 minutes or 10 weeks down the track, it's the same, but worse, because you could be out on the highway somewhere, stuck in the snow. It's your gamble. You're probably more likely to blow up your original turbo though! There are many people around the world that can highflow a stocker. If you were in Oz I would have recommended that you contact Hypergear in Melbourne. You could still get a turbo from him, even from Japan. Have a look at their site. There are many options on the site - can be confusing. Just contact them direct if you want to go down that path and need help. https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

Let me know if you want contact deets.

The chassis rails are different at the front. Not at the rear.

I don't think he was recommending the GTRS. That is also a very very old turbo. I would suggest that he is recommending a high flow. Where are you located?

LS3.

Squirt with spray can of teflon lube.