GTSBoy

That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.

So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.

My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.

Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.

Also true. But imagine not wanting new injectors? Imagine wanting to use 30 year old injectors?

Just get rid of the orignal low impedance injectors, replace with modern high impedance injectors, and you won't need the resistors. Wire direct, as per any other engine.

Tao, we're not talking about the ECU boost ref. We're talking about the wastegate signal source.

Flapping up and down is a consequence of the varying pull on the belt. When the engine speed is suddenly increased, the tension in the belt increases too. When that engine accel changes to decel, the tension is reduced and turns up as a little extra length of beltes between the pulling and dragging pulleys. That extra length flaps up, then down. There's all sorts of other harmonic stuff going on too.

Yes.

Yes. It's not aesthetically pleasing. And most turbos sold these days are sold for aesthetic purposes (Insta likes/fame, etc). Also its cheaper to not machine it. The hot side is the pipe with hot air in it from the turbo to the intercooler. The cold side is the pipe with cooled air in it from the IC to the engine. Anywhere after the turbo will do. Certainly before the IC is better than the IC. But there is no massive imperative to get it from the turbo scroll itself, or from no more than an inch downstream. Those are nonsense thoughts. The only thing we want is a pretty honest measurement of the pressure at the turbo outlet, and anywhere from the compressor housing itself to the inlet of the IC will read approximately the same thing. Yeah, I disagree with Tao on that one. It's fine for an engine that only runs on the dyno at full throttle (or, equivalently, a drag car that only really runs at full throttle also). But some turbos that are particularly sensitive to overspeed (ie EFRs) would quite possibly get into a lot of trouble if run that way.

The sarcasm should have been easily visible. It was dripping off it.

Whether the brakes will clear the back of the spokes comes down to the specific wheel, as well as its dimensions (ie 18x8 or whatever else size). You can have 2 different wheels of the same size and one will clear and on the other the spoke design will not clear. So your question "Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"?" cannot be answered in a meaningful way. You need that person to be using the same wheel you want to use.

I didn't even bother watching the video.

Ha, I got there4 about 1s after @PranK

If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.

In which case I still think my approach would be just as easy. In fact, easier, because of all that guidance on the front side.

Are you talking about the hole at the back end that is just a hole (albeit one with some shape to it, as you perhaps say), or are you talking about the big strakes that run down the sides of the recess?

Well, yeah, but not so as you'd be able to attribute it to the weight. Went from stock R32 16x6.5s with 225s (ie, a bit bulgy) to 17x8 with 235s. So more rubber with better geometry, along with maybe a weight change. Dunno what the stockies weigh bare.

I have Enkei RPF1s in 17x8 that are 7 kg. That's about as light as it is possible to get without going forged. Apparently 18x9s are only <1kg heavier. Just the wheel, obviously.

Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".

I think this is still wrong. There is something crappy with wastegate priority (or the f**king absence of it) if you can't get below nearly double the base spring pressure. But if you're happy with what you've got, upload skid vids now.

Surely, if you have the indicator in hand and a pair of verniers, you can measure it up and draw your own cut template? I mean, it's got to pretty clear what has to pass through the hole, what has to sit on the outside face of the hole, and what has to be able to pass through and perhaps clip into place on the back side.

He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.

Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?

With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.