R31Nismoid

Oh ffs...

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

School yourself - read the RB20 dyno results thread.

650cc should be more than enough for a GT30 on E85 On PULP the highest I’ve seen is 65% with 700cc injectors making 365rwkw (2.65l) so far. So add in a nice big 30% for E85 use @ the same power and there is room. If you wanted a bit more a 2-3psi increase in rail pressure would fix that. You’ll struggle to make 360-370rwkw on a GT30 anyway so I don’t see where the 650s are a problem… I think fuel mixing whilst estimated with some level of accuracy, is not 100% fool proof and a bit of a risk.

-9 won't hold 25psi to 8,000rpm. they will hit 25psi though as they ramp up and taper off in upper RPM. Considering you are using a stock motor, you are once again pushing beyond sensibility. If you really do want it to last you are going to need to be much more sympathetic to a 15yo motor.

Sounds like a good venue was picked? More feedback guys - I'm expecting a call from the manager in the next day or so. Be it good or bad, it needs to be discussed The food did look awesome last week when i was there, glad it's consistent and much better priced than the previous venue

I love how you dice with death Although that said, I think we'd all love to see someone run a stock bottom end to 10,000 for a while just to see what happens. Bets on #5 or #6 rod for me! Remember though if it throws a rod, head damage could indeed occur so it's not like he can just bolt on/off if it does shit itself in a epic fashion. In all seriousness though Cameron - whilst everyone will always say the bigger motor. You do need to remember you have a GTS4. A normal R32 GTS-t - ok not so bad with a 2ltr. But the extra weight, 4WD - you are pushing poop up a hill before you even start which really is the major disadvantage over and above anything else. Perhaps not "what RPM", but what is the use of car and power you are chasing to perhaps look at this from a different angle

stock or aftermarket you mean? What happened to the rest of the rpm? 70kw is a bit stretch. you'd wonder if initially timing was incorrect and so on leading to such a gain when settings are adjusted. Such gains in that type of scenario have a reasonable probability for sure.

All 2 seconds of a "flash" comment of about 4 words. Typical media

Sell it and buy a turbo that suits IMO. Power goal?

Use stock - read the thread below this one. 2 pages on the topic already... No need for cams with those turbos, save the money/time/effort. As for getting them - depends if you plan to drop 20k on a bigger motor/setup or not. If the answer is no to the above, that pretty much sums it up

They will work, but are a waste of money for those turbos/engine in all honesty.

Unless you require it for production/restriction racing - you are wasting your money on a NUR long block. You are better off having a workshop properly build you one, fixing all the flaws that Nissan had 10-15 years ago. A lot has changed, a lot of development has been done. N1/NUR long blocks etc are nothing more than overpriced rubbish. Dollar for dollar you can get MUCH better out of a dedicated/experienced RB motor builder.

RTS is it Mr Jacob?

Kaido, i know what you said but as the above posts say... You really aren't going to save money. Can be done with the head on and cost isn't majorly different. The two posts above hit the ole nail perfectly and would be what id say. Just remember cams is 1500 fitted/tuned. cam gears less than half Good to see you are getting out among it, let your R&D begin

It will be put up here as well, fear not. Once the website is up and running there will be information distributed via that method & Facebook So people won't miss out on any updates/information i can assure you.

volunteering to run on the rollers are you?

Logos to be launched tonight too. you'll see it first on Facebook!

The more the better. Trophy classes will extend to more than just a skyline as many in the clubs/community don't drive one

Indeed i agree. OP is building aclub level circuit car though, that much is certain. Have a read of his build thread in MSport section. If it was drag then it would be a different situation etc.

That is exactly my point! And the same point a number of others have had (Marlin, djr82 etc etc). Over Kaido's threads (there is a massive one in MSport), it's just about him buying parts without any thought or experience. He is building a track/circuit/club GTR. The best thing initially it get it reliable, which he has done with oil cooler/turbo swap and so on. The next part now is to stop worrying about spending money and go and drive the car. Learn it, talk to others @ club days to see what makes their car fast. Workout what they have tried/have not tried. I think that's the best advice - and best of all, it's free!!!! I'm not having a go at him or anything like that, I just think it's very silly to be talking about spending thousands of dollars without even knowing how to drive the car fast at this stage. It's the same thing many have been saying for 6 months now. I'm in a similar boat. The GTR I've purchased has very similar spec/proven formula to many other cars and at a recent hillclimb i was 8 seconds slower (over 60 sec lap). It's not setup slow - its driver slow. It'll take me many sessions to knock off those 8 seconds. I will get there eventually but it won't be by spending $1,000's on parts i don't need. It's simply experience which costs nothing but holds the most value

Just buy a wrecker RB20 mate. Cost you what, $500?