Duncan

Yeah exactly, it is common for parts to be a few degrees off flat. If a couple of them go the same way you end up with that sort of issue. Not many china parts are as bolt on as they claim.... Cut and reweld at a zorst shop. BTW thanks for the introduction to new terminology "long laying knee" and "downpipe" I take it that is the first piece off the turbo (dump pipe) and piece from the dump pipe to that cat converter which we would normally call front pipe?

It was a pretty abrupt response Ben. You might want to check distance to Alice (from everywhere!) before you drop by...

sounds like a good project...do you have a future home for it? It is worth getting the R32 GTR workshop manual, while the motor is not identical, the long block is very similar and it will have pretty much everything you need. There is also an R33 GTST workshop manual which is specific to that motor, but is in japanese

Who let Richard back?

Yeah I just got one from Nissan jp via Jesse Streeter too. I think it's unlikely you'll find second hand available, they are all broken.

that does suck to face, but thanks from everyone for being out there in the mud for the cleanup

Good to know the cross reference, thanks. Getting brake parts at short notice for weird nissan imports has been the bane of my life over the last decade... I can also confirm the GF50 Cima ATTKD brakes I had don't fit; disc size and caliper offset is good, but the bolt spacing is miles off for the caliper

Welcome to SAU

glad it is working...but I'm pretty sure I mentioned spacing out the cam sensor a few pages back 😛

So just to be sure, you do have the + hooked up to the alternator, right? It is 4 wire; small eyelet is earth (goes to a m5 bolt into the body of the alternator), large eyelet (is meant to have a red rubber cover but might be missing) goes to the m6 stud on the alternator and the other 2 wires (exciter and voltage signal) go via the plug. If you have earthed the alternator main outlet you should have seen sparks.....either when you earthed it or when you attached the battery + depending on order you did things. Also this partly depends on your exact 12v setup because from memory battery is in the boot now.

But hard to tell with the other wire without more context. However. Are you running the standard ignitor pack for the coils? If so make sure the earth in that loom (car side of the ignitor pack) is well earthed, I earth it on the ignitor itself which I bolt to the cam cover. Easy to forget/get wrong when you are not running a coil pack cover. Also, there is one 3 pin connector (just like the one you have shown) at the rear of the engine that can be hooked up incorrectly (ie, the engine loom has both the male and female parts of the connector, and the either the car or engine sub loom, (can't remember which) also has a matching connector. As a result it is possible to physically connect the wrong connector pairs. Bad explanation, but easy to check with the car in front of you

Yeah a sad loss, she was a good racer and one of the few women who have made a career in motorsport over a long period.

Also for ease of reference, I measured up the rotors and pads while I was there. Fronts are 320mm diameter, 28mm thick, 50mm high which makes them DB2308. DBA don't list them for the hybrid but they are listed for the VQ25 and VQ37 models Rears are 308mm diameter, 17mm thick, 64mm high which makes them DB2313E. Again DBA don't list them for Fuga but the listing is there for Infiniti Q70 rear. Front pads are DB1696, bendix don't list them as Fuga but they do list them for M35h Infiniti Rear pads are DB1509, again bendix list them for M35h Infiniti not Fuga.

For reference of anyone else doing interior and exterior LED swaps (looks much more modern I think), bulbs locations and sizes are: Interior (excluding vanity mirrors, cig lighter, rear ashtray light, glovebox light): LH reading – ba9s RH reading– ba9s LH footwell – T10 LH footwell – T10 RHF door – T10 RHR door – T10 LHF door – T10 LHR door – T10 Boot lamp – T10 For the exterior (headlights are HID 35w D2S, my side repeaters are sealed lights with T10 so I left them) Front Parkers - 2x T10 with all around LEDs (not just end) mid length Front indicators – 2x T20 orange, resistors required Fog Lights - 2x H8 (white LED swap) Rear indicators - 2x T20, resistors required Reverse lights - 2x T10 with all around LEDs (not just end) mid length License plate lights - 2x T10, must be short to fit housing

OK, looks like I'm done for now except for some properly sized tyres. I've finished the install of the antenna, antenna splitter, usb 4g wifi and 4g mobile booster in the boot Once the trim is back in, no sign of it all, other than the nice new bright boot lights I added these lights in addition to changing the stock boot light to LED Inside, I've installed the Greddy Informeter. It's hard to find a good spot for extra displays with interior designs but this works OK. I wired in another OBD port for it so the standard one is still available. I've also installed a wireless charging phone cradle mount to the right of the steering wheel with USB power supply but no pics yet Finally, all the LED swap overs are complete, the front exterior is all LED now except the headlights which were HID

Others will know better than me, but I'd guess a gtst will get to 260kw with a high flow standard turbo, powerfc, exhaust and possibly injectors. This is a well trodden path

What is 350 hp, 260kw? And what is your location as that may affect price but is not in your profile?

Not really. Possibly you've had some bad fuel along the way, but it is a very strange problem. Have you been shown the issue?

Are you sure the pressure switch om the receiver dryer is connected and working?

Don't worry about your master cylinder, your throttle cable isn't secured properly! When I replaced mine r32 masters were not available new (they may be again now), I fitted a 33 gtr one and have gone without the low fluid light as the plug is different. Otherwise it is a direct fit. No need to change the size of the standard master cylinder, even if you have somewhat larger than stock calipers.

These guys do ones for Vq35HR https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c847342390

I don't get all the agro. It IS unusual and interesting to have a no radio car. There aren't really many sources of good information on what happened 25 years ago in a non-english speaking country, if you aren't interested in talking about it in this thread....don't!

Yep confirmed, the battery has a cabin air feed and a separate fan. No cooling for the capacitor so I guess Nissan figured that didn't need it. Sorted out a couple more things on the car. Replaced rear ashtray with rear USB, 12v and auxiliary power (including some mangling of the top right screw where I cross threaded it and had to cut it off, dammit) Also completed the LED light bar install. There is a mile of room behind the bumper, probably for front end safety zone, but I think having a big light adds more safety in my usage, especially as "winter is coming"... I took a High Beam signal from this pink wire on the rear of the headlight in the passenger wheel well Added a relay (second from bottom on left, with integral fuse) triggered by that wire, in the fusebox just above in the engine bay (and took the power feed from the large supply stud there) Pulled the bumper and reo off Added a pair of simple L brackets on the rear of the front bumper reo and mounted a very larga Narva light bar (40 LED, 200W, 18000 Lumen). Once reassembled it is unobtrusive Unless they are on... Hopefully that will give me every chance to see the wombats before it's too late. I've got the same bar on the Titan and it does an excellent job. Very few things still to sort out for me; changing the front lights to LEDs except for the main beams which are D2S HIDs already, fitting larger tyres (236/60/18 instead of 245/50/18) so the cruise control doesn't top out at 107, finalising the 4g booster and wifi install, and potentially fitting larger brakes I took off the Cima for slightly better braking, but more importantly easier replacement of parts (more research needed here on front and rear fuga pad and disc compatibility).

Tip is that it is much easier to leave the engine loom in the car when you remove the engine (Probably even if you are changing the loom...)

That is an unusual spec, if you post the VIN we can double check the original spec in FAST. I've never come across a 33 gtst without HICAS or stereo before. All 33 gtst were designated Type M though.