Duncan

Well that diagram answers the "what is it question" on p11 but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't be on the car loom, as all of them would have a recirc/outside air option (even if AC was optional)

cops are welcome, chatbots not so much

What does the black box that it plugs into do, looks like some sort of actuator? There are english r33 wiring diagrams somewhere, because I've seen excerpts from them posted. If you can find them and a likely name for that box you are on your way.. This issue could be something optional that your donor air con unit has, but your car's loom did not

I have one but only use it to undo big stuff. You can't tell what torque it is putting on it, with 32x it would be easy to break or even worse over torque but not immediately break the bolt. I just put the biggest bar on it I can and push down with my weight (I don't have a 400 whatever torque wrench). Until now I have required a second voluntold to hold onto the longest breaker bar between a re-inserted bellhousing bolt and a flywheel tooth, next time I am trying this for that part:

I was reminded by another post to put this up. I bought one these, haven't used it yet but should assist one person balancer and flywheel bolt do and undoing https://boostdoc.com.au/products/crankshaft-lock-for-nissan-rb

this is all pretty mild on the scale. I remember rogercordia and labomba. best suggestion I can make is that if you are taking advice from the internet, consider how much they know about your question (very little, just what you typed and they guess) and the body of knowledge the poster can apply to it. Then, since cars are wonderfully logical things (except for that thing about the ufo/speedo), decide if what you are hearing makes some sense.

The first 2 are right (gravity!). Not sure about the water lines but I don't think it matters which water water flows through the core

Awesome thread, thanks for posting this up

The other reason to remove these is simply that if you lunch a motor, you really can't clean out the internal oil passages properly (like all oil coolers) so you need to bin the one you have. Then you find out they are a gaziliion dollars from nissan and decide you can live without it

I ran a cheapy highmount stainless turbo on the stagea for years. It cracked every year or 2 and I got it rewelded, until I gave up and when 6 boob instead.

yeah I've got a thermostat in the race car too, on things like rallies it does a lot of cold starts.

oil cooler is not required unless a gauge/sensor tells you it is getting hot the way you use the car. It is more likely to keep the oil too cold longer each time you start it than help you keep it cool when being driven hard.

mate, I understand you want certainty, especially because if it leaks it is box off again to fix. but in the end, most jobs come down to fundamentals. In this case you have a factory designed, properly engineered sealing system with a sealant designed to go in flexible, take up the required shape and then set firm but still flexible, with suitable bolts to hold the pressure on the sealant. you don't need to overthink this.

No, I haven't done this before, I've always changed the rear main when I change the bearings I do need to do it some time in the rb30 stagea, and that is how I plan to. There is no reason it will leak at the corners, just have a dab of extra sealant there; the whole point of silicone to seal is it retains some flex over it's life. No tips required, undo the bolts and gently pry it off with a bar or flat screwdriver if it resists. The seal will slide over the crank. When you reseal it don't use too much silicone, a thin (3mm) bead is plenty

Longer term, its probably an opportunity to chuck out all the modern electronics that a skiddy car doesn't want/need. Will probably require an ECU change to aftermarket as I bet the factory one will be grumpy if it doesn't hear from the BCM that everything is good.

If you aren't confident working through every potentially damaged wire and want a chance of racing tomorrow, you need to see if the S1 loom fits. There are wiring diagrams available for each year of the US cars, so just pick the closest to yours and remember it may not be identical. I've never seen any accurate Japanese (or translated) manuals for any of the post R34 stuff.

Absolutely. That is 100% how I would do it, you are 4 bolts away from making this job a million times easier for yourself.

What's the $60k for? replacing broken computers to stop error lights on the dash?

Unless you can't access the sump bolts, removing the retainer and doing it all on the bench, then cleaning and reapplying the sealant is probably easiest. You won't get one of those big pullers in with the crank there.

Ha! That thread has been up since you last logged on. I have a bunch of other stuff to move, wait until the internet finds out I have a working Epson EJ1 I don't need.

I was hoping it meant Not Safe for Work but also left disappointed

Thanks Brett, great idea.

Also, since they are still squealing...get hold of some anti-squeal compound and but it between the back of the pads and the shims, and between each shim. Like this (https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/brakes-parts/permatex-disc-brake-quiet-12-oz/, noting it might cause cancer if you live in California). Like I said originally, squealing is caused by a high frequency vibration somewhere in the stack between the brake caliper piston and the hub. This stuff tries to flex and stop that happening at those points, but it can still happen where the disc sits on the hub, surface of the disc, surface of the pad etc Do you know what pads are in there? Swapping to something street friendly and less dusty can help

A big brake kit looks good but is really never required except for heavy race use. I run standard vspec calipers with good discs and pads in my race/rally car. These cars had reasonable brakes from the factory. If everything is tight when you load the caliper, you just need to push the pistons back a little. Take the pad from one side of the disc (leave the other one in), then use it to lever between the disc and the piston (carefully!) to get the space you need. If it is really hard to move you have a seized piston and need to rebuild the brakes anyway, it should retract smoothly with moderate pressure

yeah the only trick is to get the cap that suits your master cylinder. I use the SP Tools one. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/sp-tools-sp70809-25l-brake-clutch-pressure-bleeding-kit The other option is vacuum bleeder but you still need to attach it to each nipple rather than once at the master cylinder. Either way, if you use a pressure bleeder you need to be careful not to empty the master cylinder and suck air in because it is a bitch to clean back out