Duncan

Depending on mounting location, you can fit much larger filters on that block, it is only the outer diameter and thread size that matters

Out of interest, why change to a different setup (brackets, plug change etc)? I only run moderate power (up to 400kw) but OEM/splitfires have been fine for me in a couple of cars

Right, so unfortunately there was a time aftermarket coils became cheap and readily available, but many of them are junk, including the common yellow and red ones. Splitfires (purple) seem to be OEM quality, or go OEM (or OEM from another car, there are lots of kits these days_. 2 screws each in the 4 screw bracket. I think that was because the front and rear brackets are identical.

ha! yeah for once something from this car would fit other stageas! (well except around the intercooler pipers but that bit was pretty simple. a long, long time ago in a workshop far, far away (ie, UAS) corflute was put in the front of the race car and it has lasted at least 10 years. It doesn't look super tough but afterall it is only trying to keep stray airflow on the straight and narrow so it seems to work OK.

With apologies to Bad Obsession Motorsport, I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) for radiator air guide for the Stagea over the weekend. Cardboard and tape transferred to some coreflute Cut out Installed

Yeah Link has 2 CANs built in and keypad support

Plumb the screamer back so it is quieter and legal, and the track doesn't get shut down due to angry neighbours win/win/win?

OK, so the answer to your original question, you need to sell or return what you bought, and buy 370z discs and pads.

Easiest way out is probably to ditch the adapters and bolt the brembos straight in the stock location, then use factory R33/R34 GTR discs. They will be sufficient for anything except serious track use *edit* sorry let me clarify that. You need to know if you have R chassis brembos (what I assumed above) or Z chassis bremobs because they require different disc offsets. If your ones are Z chassis brembos your caliper adapter should just allow you to run standard size and offset z chassis discs. Bit hard to guess this on the internet. DBA.com.au have a very good catalogue which will allow you to measure and identify the discs you have.

lol you would need seriously long arms in car....

That is pretty hard to e-diagnose unfortunately. It might be worth removing the cam covers and timing cover to see if there are any fresh witness marks. Re the oil pressure it is very much worth having a gauge or logging. What ECU do you have? If it can read a sender you need a sender and suitable wiring to the ECU (usually 5v, sensor earth and ECU input). If not or you want a separate gauge, any aftermarket electronic oil pressure gauge would be suitable, it will come with a sender, wiring and gauge to mount somewhere. Any expensive new engine is worth having at least a proper gauge to monitor it. With regards to your rebuild, it is unusual to have a main bearing spin. Hopefully your engine builder carefully checked it for any issues and had some feedback about likely failure cause like low oil pressure, I am concerned you might have had a bent crank and hope it was straightened OK if so because otherwise it will recur

And the wires just connect to terminals 11 and 12 on the head unit so you can check if there is anything at those pins in your setup Should not be too hard to wire in if you are missing them, but it seems a bit strange. Does you car have AC?

Well that diagram answers the "what is it question" on p11 but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't be on the car loom, as all of them would have a recirc/outside air option (even if AC was optional)

cops are welcome, chatbots not so much

What does the black box that it plugs into do, looks like some sort of actuator? There are english r33 wiring diagrams somewhere, because I've seen excerpts from them posted. If you can find them and a likely name for that box you are on your way.. This issue could be something optional that your donor air con unit has, but your car's loom did not

I have one but only use it to undo big stuff. You can't tell what torque it is putting on it, with 32x it would be easy to break or even worse over torque but not immediately break the bolt. I just put the biggest bar on it I can and push down with my weight (I don't have a 400 whatever torque wrench). Until now I have required a second voluntold to hold onto the longest breaker bar between a re-inserted bellhousing bolt and a flywheel tooth, next time I am trying this for that part:

I was reminded by another post to put this up. I bought one these, haven't used it yet but should assist one person balancer and flywheel bolt do and undoing https://boostdoc.com.au/products/crankshaft-lock-for-nissan-rb

this is all pretty mild on the scale. I remember rogercordia and labomba. best suggestion I can make is that if you are taking advice from the internet, consider how much they know about your question (very little, just what you typed and they guess) and the body of knowledge the poster can apply to it. Then, since cars are wonderfully logical things (except for that thing about the ufo/speedo), decide if what you are hearing makes some sense.

The first 2 are right (gravity!). Not sure about the water lines but I don't think it matters which water water flows through the core

Awesome thread, thanks for posting this up

The other reason to remove these is simply that if you lunch a motor, you really can't clean out the internal oil passages properly (like all oil coolers) so you need to bin the one you have. Then you find out they are a gaziliion dollars from nissan and decide you can live without it

I ran a cheapy highmount stainless turbo on the stagea for years. It cracked every year or 2 and I got it rewelded, until I gave up and when 6 boob instead.

yeah I've got a thermostat in the race car too, on things like rallies it does a lot of cold starts.

oil cooler is not required unless a gauge/sensor tells you it is getting hot the way you use the car. It is more likely to keep the oil too cold longer each time you start it than help you keep it cool when being driven hard.

mate, I understand you want certainty, especially because if it leaks it is box off again to fix. but in the end, most jobs come down to fundamentals. In this case you have a factory designed, properly engineered sealing system with a sealant designed to go in flexible, take up the required shape and then set firm but still flexible, with suitable bolts to hold the pressure on the sealant. you don't need to overthink this.