Duncan

Top speed? Probably, as long as you are going downhill

Its never a good time to be single 😛 It *looks* like the front turbo seals are leaking, and I'm assuming you've had a good look at the rear and no such trouble. That rules out general problems like breather plumbing or really high pressure for some reason because the rear doesn;t have the same issue. Therefore....I'd drop the front pipes and check out the rear wheel of the front turbo for movement, and remove the front drain. Either the core and it's seal is in bad condition, or the oil return to the block is kinked or blocked preventing oil draining out freely

The standard pivot points have been known to snap with a combination of heavy clutch and heavy foot, and it is a quick/easy thing to change if the gearbox is off (and a real pain if not) No idea whether this one is actually stronger than factory, and I've never heard of anyone having a fork issue.

Funny you should say that, I spent 4 hours mowing the lawn yesterday afternoon.....with a 6" wide slasher

not sealed, but we've taught a bunch of kids basic driving on our driveways, we have a couple of klm, hard to hit anything. Plus if she wants a manual we have the old hilux, doesn't matter if it gets scratched.

Unless I'm missing something....can't you just unbolt and reverse your decat pipe to move the bung closer? I guess you are pulling off the front pipes to check the front turbo seal for a leak anyway

I'm not sure I really understand the concern, apart from any potential difference in wire sizing (amp capacity) there is no difference between 1, 2 or a thousand IGN wires.

Assuming you own a multimeter. Unplug the big plug to the key switch, and then in continuity mode check out which pins have continuity to the battery 12v in the various key states. Off, should be no continuity to BAT ACC, ACC only should have continuity to BAT IGN, ACC and IGN should have continuity to BAT Start, IGN and Start should have continuity to BAT

100% agree...owner might have turned down the boost to 9psi but got the 388 figure on a higher level eg 18psi

Yeah classy response for open government. An election is due in 6 months, so we can't do anything until then. Wish my job worked that way

Does the current owner have a dyno graph? It is a bit of an old school setup but probably around 400 rwkw. Where is the 100m wood installed?

jeebus. so the new bracket is plastic? seems like a great solution if it is thick enough to last long term, can the files for the bracket be shared for other?

That is awesome news. Now if only someone would make front guards.

Should-a stuck with twins....

As always, it depends how much you change at the same time as getting it fixed. But, I think GTSBoy was referring to any part of the car going pop, not just the gearbox, they are far from new these days.

well, for what it's worth, PWR seems to stand for "Probably Wrong Radiator"

lol remember when gearboxes were cheap and plentiful?

ECU really comes down to tuner preference, the general features are the same. Link will give you move $ for $ than Haltech but that is only a small part of the total cost. No idea which cylinder knocks first, although legend has it #6 might in an rb26 due to plenum design (more air at the rear)

It's not clear which one you are after from the pic, but aftermarket silicone will last better https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-intercooler-hose-kit-nissan-gtr-stagea-260rs-rb26dett

I had the carpet out of the footwell in the stagea yesterday, some aftermarket wires ran across the passenger floor and they had melted into the sound deadener/tar over the years....

"well, there's your problem"! pretty sure that counts as a major boost leak. You need to stay off boost until it is fixed, because your turbos will be making eleventy boost at the turbos

My understanding is R34 GTT is the only r chassis where the seats don't interchange with other models. You need replacement R34 GTT seats, or aftermarket seats with rails to suit R34 GTT only

Totally agree....life of the engine will depend on treatment, maintenance and dumb luck due to the tolerances involved. You can expect trouble very early for any manufacturing/assembly issues, then anywhere between 150,000-500,000 for life issues. Also worth noting that a properly rebuilt engine (rings, bearings, seals and correct tolerances) resets those estimates, so if you really like the car it is a valid option

Unfortunately replacing rings is an engine out rebuild, you would do bearings and seals at the same time, likely cost 5-10k. Before you did that you would do a compression test to confirm it was rings not something in the head, and unless the car is running terrible you would almost certainly just live with it and top the oil up between changes. Another possible (more likely) reason for burning a bit of oil on a mid age engine modern engine is the valve stem steals leaking. You would generally notice that most the longer since you last ran the car, it would burn a bit of oil as it first warms up then you probably wouldn't notice it after that. As with rings, you would probably just live with it; it is possible to fix in the car with a bit of fiddling but it would still be a big job. I've previously improved but not fixed older valve stem seals using an oil additive like this https://www.liquimoly.com.au/2782-engine-oil-resealer

Ha! No skylines are poverty spec any more