Duncan

nothing could be more bogan mate, steelies on the back

Yeah Wakefield had been regularly breaching their noise rules for about 10 years but everyone was turning a blind eye until Wakie submitted a DA to expand late last year. At that point Council had to request community input and received a whole bunch of evidence that Wakie had been regularly breaking the previous conditions so Council approved the DA but with updated noise conditions. Wakie were unhappy with that result so they appealed to Land and Environment court who found that Council had been too lenient, and applied even tougher conditions. Wakie are saying they can't operate under those conditions so are ceasing operation. Cluster f**k from start to finish, and the problem for Wakie and Council now is that neither of them can override the court decision, so they are jointly looking for state rule changes to help. I assume a bunch of rich arseholes will just buy it as a private track and use it once a month (which is allowed under the court ruling, just not more often) Bring on electric car racing, because if motorsport has to be obnoxiously loud to exist, it will get shut down everywhere. If you want to listen to engine noises all day buy a set of headphones.

lol, projects!

ouch. harrop probably should have mentioned if that is a thing...

What on earth is a wireless keyboard? Is that like a bluetooth front driveshaft when on a 2wd dyno?

Where are you Jarret? Location on profile would help me decide whether to lurk around your bin

Challenge Bathurst is worth it, even at the price. Its a track that can't be missed

lol I knew it, I'm an old man magnet!

If the disc is not exactly in the middle of the caliper pistons when bolted in, the offset is wrong. But, if the caliper is too far outwards, you can shim it back to the correct position with washers between the caliper and hub, just get some large diameter ones for maximum contact area. You can work around it if you need to, but it requires machining pads down to fit which is a pretty crap outcome... I leave the shields on the disc as much as possible, so either bend back or remove only where clearance is required. Rocks stuck in the brakes are common for both track and rally and it makes a worrying noise until you work out what it was. The only ducting I have is the N1 standard deflectors on the caster rods

Awwww.....Goldzilla posted here Did you try what zei20l said? nozzle is the most likely thing to be blocked and easy to check by pulling the hose off the back of it. Beyond that, looks like the hose runs along the inside of the sill where the wiring is. You'll need to pull up the kick panel (carefully, don't break irreplaceable clips!). Pull it apart at each connection you can to narrow down the blockage.

FWIW, might be easier to find a 1/2" to 3/4" reducing tee, a lot of that stuff appears to be stuck in the 60s....

great to hear, for future readers did it work OK as soon as you paired the phone?

Per above, it is the cap that is meant to vent air into the tank, so just undo it to eliminate that option.

lol kids. I'm watching 50 steaming towards me. Neil is too old to find his keyboard to answer.

a little more seriously, I can't believe SAU is 20 this year. And, like this thread says, I've had the race car for 17 years (and about 17 engines....).

typical fcking millennial, not being able to tell the difference between gen x and their parents. have you moved out of home yet?

how on earth can you give due attention to a post and the overall situation if you are posting on a phone? f**k I feel old some times. bring back the dos bbs.

Exactly right, it will want to self centre. Just do it, no big deal

I'd say you had an immobiliser that needed that fob inserted which allows you to start it for 30 seconds. Then someone removed that and so it starts without it as well.

So, seems like Paul said, you probably need to pair the phone, which you have to do via a menu setting (not automatic). Google Translate has a camera option that will live translate the screen to help

OMG, how right were you, the apocalypse did arrive in 2020! I've fixed my web hosting in the last couple of days so all those missing pics at the start of the thread are back

sorry if this is a dumb question, but can't a regular 6 sided hex driver undo that, just like a 6 or 12 point socket can undo a 6 sided nut?

I agree, genuine gaskets and rocker cover washers, new half moon seals (with very light silicone bead), bolts tightened correctly will give you years of leak free covers. I don't know the GRP ones at all, they might be fine BTW the rover cover bolts are 2-4NM per the service manual. It is worth re-torqueing them after the first drive

Have you got a pic, or steps, to the screen where bluetooth is turned off?

But, the reason I remembered this thread was I had to change the rear pads yesterday, and jeebus how hard did they make it. Clearly nissan US engineers are not the same as nissan Japan's people. Apparently they had issues with pads falling out of the rear brakes in the very early models, so this is the "improved" version. They are a large single piston design, here is the devil's spawn You can see the pads have 2 tabs to hold them into the mounting bracket at the bottom And at the top there is a large spring clip that stops them sliding out. To change the rear pads: 1. Undo the top mounting bolt for the calliper cylinder 2. Undo the lower mounting bolt as well. That's right, you can't just leave one bolt in place and let the calliper rotate outwards to hold it while you change the pads, the whole thing has to come off the hub. Note, the pads stay in place in the calliper, because.... 3. The outer pad is held to the calliper by a spring clip on the back of the pad, and 2 tabs on the front which go into 2 holes cast into the housing You can see the channel for the tabs at the top, the only way to pull the pad out is upwards and out. This is the outer rear pad once removed 4. OK, that was the easy one. The inside pad is also held in place by spring clips. In my case I was putting 50% worn spare pads back in while I wait for new ones from the US, but it is not possible to just slide the pad out, the piston needs to be pushed back 100% to allow the spring clips on the back of the pad to clear the piston 5. Happily, at least the rear disc just slides off the hub then, no bearings etc to deal with Reinstallation is just as painful as removal, as once the pads are in the calliper, you need to slip the lower pad tabs over the mounting bracket, then tap the calliper back into place while not mashing the dust covers of the mounting bolts. All that for a solid (not vented!) 14mm x 320mm disc, and tiny pads. Because it's a big vehicle and a single piston design, the pads don't wear evenly by literally mm across the surface That was a hell of a lot of work for a very crap design.