Duncan

I can't say for certain, but this was a common engine in AWD vs RWD and Auto vs Manual. It may simply be that most manuals were behind turbo engines. I'm not aware of any reason a RWD sump would fit a non-NEO, but not fit a NEO, as I believe all the material differences are in the head and intake (again from memory, I think the rods may be rb26 in the NEO but that has nothing to do with the sump). It can't even be related to NVCS feed or return because that was on the non-NEO heads too. I'd ask the seller what the issue is. A RWD oil pan bolts onto either RWD or AWD blocks no problem. From memory something is required with the pickup using an AWD block and RWD sump but from a quick search on here it may be as simple as modifying the standard sump baffles to suit. Again this issue was across non-NEO and NEO blocks and did not change AFAIK.

AWD blocks have bolt holes for RWD sump, so that part is OK. I am not sure how the pickup should be dealt with, the pickup is further forward in AWD block to avoid the front driveshaft which passes through the sump. I guess "something" custom is required there. There are both AWD and RWD Neos in Skylines, Stageas, Laurels, all sorts of things. Either should work as the base for your conversion, noting you will need a RWD or custom sump if you buy a 4WD engine Yes, auto and manual are the same block, the only difference is ring gear/torque converter vs flywheel and clutch and be aware the autos don't have a spigot bush (but you can insert on to the crank) Engine management is simple, any decent RB ECUs will support it. RB30 with a NEO head would save you 2 sets of changes (noting the Rb30 deck height can cause rework in exhaust, intake, coolant etc piping) Also, be aware that the RB25DE/DET NEO heads are the best of the RB series heads and are often in demand for conversions. You may find it easier/cheaper to go with a non-NEO engine.

You really need to know the machine shop's quote to fix it if you are going that way. The head is easy to hurt more than the block from an oil issue because the cams are steel, running in an aluminium head, withhout bearings in between...it can get chewed up pretty quick.

I've never used or seen that kit. project mu have a serious reputation in braking but there is a lot of information missing from that listing like type and style of dogbone, is the disc solid or full floating to the hats etc. It also mentions they run '1 synchronised pad per piston' which sounds overly complex solution to a non-problem to me. Also no information on price or availability of replacement pads or rotor rings If I was looking for something that serious I'd go AP racing or perhaps Brembo as they have plenty of users and good availability, but in any case something like Just Jap ATTKD are proven and less than half the price (assuming that listing is USD)

Rose joints rattle, and then they wear and rattle more. Seems like a strange way to support something with engine harmonics

Well, I bought brand new, custom BC Racing 18x10s for the GTR from just jap to get the right offset to fit under 23 guards, $4,400 for the set. They are good and strong as proven by crash testing.... Obviously Rays at 3 times that are a no go. I guess great condition, period forgies are probably going up in price at the same rate as GTRs, but maybe there are some scratched 2nd handies somewhere for a good price, that's what I'd be looking for. Hopefully the light car thing saves the problem, I suspect the real issue is with side impacts on curbs so driving style would have an impact

I just measured 2 pairs I have, which are both meant to be 32 GTR (one rebuilt with new boots, one original) Left is 615mm/605mm Right is 650mm/640mm In each case the rebuilt one is 10mm shorter than the original, and they vary from the other numbers you pulled up from the old post, which I guess just goes to show there is a lot of movement in a CV

You really want to repair if you can, although I believe there are billet aftermarket options which may be a go.

Good to see Matt, hope you have some car budget left after life and mortgage!

Just be aware that cast rims can let you down in an exciting manner of the track, I've soon both Rotas and Enkei fail. If you are using cast, make sure it is something tough and good quality casting like weds. I try to only use forged for racing even though they cost a bloody fortune

I love your car updates, like Home and Away, goes on indefinitely with new story lines every week!

That was a bit hard to follow. You are saying when you floor it in 2nd it shifts down to 1st and that is a concern? What are the revs in 1st when that happens, and at what revs does it shift up to 2nd again?

Well googling the part number implies it is a relay for an A31 cefiro...

Shit I remember when she was born...probably even pre face book....anyway, introduce her to eastern creek skidpan

I've changed my vote. Mazda Roadpacer for sure.

fark. That does my head in

I'm so far southside I fell out of Sydney! How's life treating you ?

Any pistons (including standard) will be fine for weekend driving, assuming you are not looking to make substantially more power than standard. Compared to many cars the RB skylines were very well engineered from factory I'd be using Standard pistons and rings to suit ACL rod and main bearings Reuse Rods and Crank with new standard or ARP rod bolts New, aftermarket oil pump eg Nitto VRS kit with metal head gasket New rear main, cam cover, cam, oil pump and cam half moon seals New standard head bolts, main girdle bolts, flywheel bolts Potentially head job, definitely valve stem seals but valve springs are often tired too New water pump, timing belt (obviously), timing idler and tension bearings and stud/bolt (as they can fail with time)

I guess whoever put the turbo on didn't show 100% attention. You either need to plumb that back into the intake so it burns off any blow by, or you need to add a catch can with external breather (noting that is potentially not legal, but may not be the only potentially not legal thing in the engine bay)

Glad to hear you've had a good experience. I'd need a lot more information compared to what the Fuga listing provides, it has a lot of vague statements like (my highlight) Q2. This model will support the steering wheel control,A/C display, factory amplifier, etc? A:Hi, friend, usually all products models will fully support and be compatible with the original car functions, such as STW, A/C, AMP, etc. But if your car is with specially factory functions, such as Optical Fiber Amplifier, BOSE Amplifier, XM satellite radio, factory NAVI, etc, please contact us further I guess if I was going to go this way I'd have to look through what the Xanavi offers, what of that I actually use, and confirm with the seller what is carried over. Certainly I don't use the Navi, I just use my phone, but plugged in Android Auto was a worse experience than just using the handset last I used it, and I only use Bluetooth from the phone for audio so none of the AM/FM/Satellite/Video is important to me either (and Xanavi is annoying dealing with 2 paired phones as I do). Things like Distance to Empty display I use all the time, and Hybrid display at times. AC is displayed but not controlled by the screen in the Fuga. Reverse camera is important too and the factory resolution is terrible so that is a potential improvement.

Does your screen only control audio etc? In the fuga it includes a lot of car settings which I guess you are losing with an aftermarket setup, this is the key reason I went Xanavi Good to see there are more modern alternatives, tech moves a long way in t10 years.

Good on you still pushing a FJ20 hard A 20 year newer turbo is way better, either same power with more response or more power with the same response. They are also more efficient and will produce less heat at higher boost than olden day turbos

Also, the head is totally different between rb25 and rb26 (noting the neo rb25 has a better head than rb26) and the externals like intake manifold, throttle(s) and exhaust/turbos etc are clearly different. There is no chance the shop is trying to pass off a rebuilt rb25 as an rb26

Re rb25 vs rb26....there is not a lot of difference and everything is physically interchangeable with small detail differences. Like Josh said you can make sure the block was originally rb26 by looking for an engine number starting with rb26 (noting that brand new blocks are supplied without numbers so it could start as anything). A better check is rb26 block will have 05U cast into it. The capacity of the engine comes from bore (86.5mm) x crank stroke (73.7mm) which is the biggest difference between 25 and 26 so as long as you get an rb26 crank back in the block it will still be 2.6 litre Re the pistons, you need to ask the shop. Per above there could be a difference in the pin height which affects how far the piston pokes into the head/valves at TDC, but with aftermarket there are lots of combinations of pin height and target compression to consider.

TBH, you either need to trust your machine shop, or not. The real work that goes into the engine is the machining and measuring, not so much the parts which seem like a pretty common list. There would be a bunch of gaskets and seals including the head gasket to add to that list, often a high flow oil pump, and a heap of external stuff like timing belt plus it's tensioner and bearings, hoses, accessory belts and often painting/powder coating the engine covers The "short engine" refers to the block and rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods etc). Here there may be costs for linishing or straightening your crank, particularly if you are getting a rebuild due to a spun bearing, and possibly even tunnel boring depending on the damage. Obviously they've decided you need to go 0.5mm oversize pistons (which is common) and will need them to bore out the cylinders then hone them for the required clearance for those pistons, and they will have to do ring end gaps. The fact they are putting in standard bearings suggests they are OK with the crank, and they may need to deck the block for straightness after checking it. Depending on your goals and the machine shop's knowledge there may be some oil gallery work and/or enlarging the block oil returns The "long engine" is the short engine with the head on. There is nothing in that list for the head so hopefully you are at least having it cleaned and measured, costs there can include closing and honing the cam caps if there is an issue, and often valve springs need replacing due to age or more aggressive cams. Some cams will require them the relieve the head for clearance too. Bottom line, at east 50% of the cost will come from cleaning, measuring, machining and re-measuring. If they do any of that wrong your engine will not last.