iruvyouskyrine

You are the bravest man i know running ~600kw on a stock bottom end with a factory CAS. I can almost guarantee you there is more than 20kw to be had by changing to a crank trigger setup. The NZwiring kit is good but at that power level i would go straight to a PRP kit or similar, what balancer are you using? and is the Link a wire in or plugin ECU?

instructions unclear, dick stuck under camshaft, please advise next step

How crucial is this rebuild schedule though and how hard/expensive is it to do? Surely people aren't rebuilding their balancers if they drive the car on weekends etc

Nice, looks like iron core? do they do the 8474 in ally core?

Still have the head studs?

If anyone knows of a T4 1.05 rear turbine housing to suit EFR7670 please let me know, somewhat of a budget so looking for used at the moment, thanks.

bump because the is relevant to my interests. Any changes since? How does the car drive on road?

Can you elaborate more on the issue with the crank trigger?

Link Can lambda pulls about 5A on the hit for the heater and ~1A steady state. 10A fuse is plenty. 18ga wire is plenty.

IQ3/Racepak are so laughably overpriced and behind the times now imo that i won't even bother talking about them. Aim MXS Strada are at a reasonable price point and have a huge host of functionality. They are (almost) infinitely configurable and the software in pretty intuitive. They are nice and bright and have plenty of lights for all sorts of warnings. However, they are sluggish to respond. Sluggish to change displays/menus but worst of all sluggish to display information. For example you stab the throttle and you don't get a nice smooth RPM sweep, i'm not sure what the refresh rate of the screen is but it's too low. To me it's an absolute deal breaker and wouldn't even run one if i could buy it half price, which is a huge shame because everything else about them is excellent. MoTeC displays are obviously very well featured and infinitely configurable but have the associated motec pricetag. I personally run a Plex μSDM-100 and could not fault it. The form factor is tiny, the display is incredibly bright with huge contrast from any viewing angle, automatically darkens at night time, it's only around $700, the refresh rate is 100hz so its basically instantaneous, the human interface is only 2 buttons and it can be mounted either vertically or horizontally and only needs power,earth and can hi/low to be wired in. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles of a fully featured dash like the the Aim/MoTeC does but it's really not competing against them, infact i don't think it really competes with anything as i don't know of anything similar to it. It's extremely customisable, does logging and has warnings, alarms, etc etc. I absolutely love it. Here is Andre from HPA talking about it Here is a video of it in action Plex also have a SDM-300/500 which is comparable to the Aim/MoTeC whilst still being cheaper. These are truly badass and have all the features of the 100 but the larger screen gives you more options for displays. I suggest you check out the website and give them a good look. https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/

The required info for being able to do this isn't readily available. I did a fair bit of google-fu when looking to convert to elec PS but everyone says the same thing 'just PWM the output'. But when pressed for info nobody has ever done it they just assume its that easy but finding any actual info about PWM/CAN controlled powersteering pumps is extremely difficult. I'm sure there is people out there who have done it but nobody is forthcoming with any easily digestible information.

I need a diff for my track car so i'll buy your clunky one if you decide its easier to buy a whole new diff ?

Sorry if i'm missing something obvious. Do you run the factory setup and have issues, or you run the ross item and are having issues after the switch?

Have been helping him with bits and pieces of his wiring for over year now, although really stepped it back recently as my new job has taken all my free time away. But if you send your car up I'll happily do a front to back on it [emoji23] Check his latest FB post for the electrical dream system you could have. That's out of the ERS evo6 that Benny and I did.

Looks decent for DIY. I'm thinking of painting my track car also, could you give a rough run down of what you did and cost of materials? cheers

Nice wheels, they really suit that R34. Good luck with sale.

Are you sure? I have only ever seen R33 'S3' with the plastic CAS, they also have the R34 ECU header plug and the coilpacks mount directly to the head, but still hydraulic lifters and no VCT drain.

Do it, keeps me in a job ? It's evo city, need to get a good (subjective term here of course lol) skyline in for a full rewire.

S2 didnt have plastic CAS and still used the coilpack mounting brackets

Its either late R33 or R34 neo engine. Take a picture of the coilpacks on your car, and the area around the front of the exhaust manifold as well to confirm 100%

number is not helpful. post pics of the engine especially near the exhaust manifold of cylinders 1/2/3, the coilpack valley, and near where the top rad hose goes into the engine

If i was you as the head is getting a decent birthday i would set it back to zero, (obviously) check your base timing, and go and get a touch up tune done. Probably some more power to be picked up and you can sleep well knowing everything is all sweet. Touch up tune should only be somewhere between $200-400 i would imagine depending on tuner and if you want multi-fuel.

I absolutely love Penrite 10 Tenths and have used it successfuly for years abusing the shit out of my cars on the track with no oil cooler. ULX110 is used a fair bit in SA by silvia/SR20 boys, they seem to be the only people using it. I would pick the penrite every time.

Needs to be 1245mm which your stock one won't be, its for a CD009 conversion into my S13. Not looking to pay anywhere near that much as all i am going to do is cut the front yoke off to use. I was under the impression V35/V36 where standard metal tailshafts and 350/370Z were carbon? Is that not correct? Thanks

Hey all, trying to chase down a manual tailshaft from a V35/36, anyone have one or know of the best place to get one. Very little V35/36 getting wrecked compared to S/R/A/C chassis Located in Newcastle NSW but happy to travel to sydney to get it if need be, or if someone has one cheap could organise postage. Thanks