Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[ScreamerNewbie]

wouldn't mind seeing where you drilled and tapped the holes.

how do you know the spot you've done it in is safe?

[XKLABA]

I don't have any pics but engine will be coming out when the new box gets here, could grab pics then

Years of experience farkin shit up lol

[scotty nm35]

This is how Gibson managed the blowby. I assume due to the small size of catch can, and the amount of boost they ran, they had it well sorted.

I would say the drained chamber over the rocker cover would be stuffed with steel wool or baffled. Not sure if the catch can is drained back to the sump, but it seems to have a breather to the sump.

[r32-25t]

The Gibson engine was dry sumped and scavenged from multiple points

[fatz]

less thinking more doing shit that works

in the getto

Dash ten on pasengers side

Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up

note that they are above the windage/baffel

Baffled and shit

door hinges from bunnings
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dash 20 atmo vent (strait to the ground so people behind me can EADC)

getto as f**k but works a treat

[ScreamerNewbie]

that sump setup is basically exactly the same as mine and as FATZ said, it works mint

[XKLABA]

Fatz, put a straight edge on the block and measure down to the full mark on the dip stick then transfer the measurement Dom from the top of the sump

[djr81]

Baffled and shit

door hinges from bunnings

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ml]

Bunnings Raceshop. Full of win.

Just put the dash fittings as high up the sump as you can manage to fit them in. It is plenty high enough if you do that.

[Pezhead]

Lov dem getto mods Pete. I was thinking of doing some hinges for my tomei baffle but didn't get round to it.

Hope to test my set up soon

[menthol369]

I've bought a rubber flappy thing that tomei makes, its their universal jobby.

On a 25 sump the passenger side doesn't allow for a vent abovethe windage tray, should I just cut it out and mount the tray lower down to allow for that?

[Sub Boy32]

The Gibson engine was dry sumped and scavenged from multiple points

No they weren't, grpA rules stated it had to be wet sump.

The photo of the Gibson engine bag shows only the separator, the other part of the catch can is where the battery in the R32 normally is.

[PN-Mad]

This is how Gibson managed the blowby. I assume due to the small size of catch can, and the amount of boost they ran, they had it well sorted.

I would say the drained chamber over the rocker cover would be stuffed with steel wool or baffled. Not sure if the catch can is drained back to the sump, but it seems to have a breather to the sump.

[MJTru]

Ok for years this even to this day has been a problem for me. Now im only on page 5 of this thread and intend on reading it all anyways. But I have a few points that I know about from reading here and on other nissan sites. The oil pump collar problem ive personally gotten over. The oil blowing out not so much. All my 25 suffer from this. I feel its the additional rpms I run like 8500rpms. And now im learning that these rb motors were ment for only 6k. Like what the hell.

Ok so ive done like 3 things out the list

1. I did the head drain

2. I did the restrictor in the block but now learning I shouldn't run 2 of them but should have blocked one out. (To late) dont mind pulling the head.

3. I did the collar.

FYI.All my 25's run N1 oil pumps.

Thats it. I have always looked at the head. The oil returns by the head bolts is what you gays are saying to drill out bigger and the same to the block.?? They seem big enough as is, as part of the washer covers a part of the hole already and if made bigger then what will the bolt/stud pull on? next is at the very back of the head there is 2 major oil drain its in the photo ill attach. What do I do to these. Just hone them out as big as I can go. ??

Last can some post photo if not already in the thread again please, as im only on page 5 at 15 pages a day is my goal:D

Now all of this said. Just a estimate here can an rb motor now do 10k all day with other issues and dont blow oil out. ????? This issue needs to be addressed.

With my rb26 build I regret now not doing the machining of the oil return ports I am running an oil accumulator and a racefab 9.5L sump cooler and a tomie oil pump 1.1 oil restrictor size.

Im so frustrated :wacko:at this. As im running a tomie oil pump as well,

And I will be spinning this motor at about 9k or more cause I dont care for it especially now. Well ill continue reading bye

[MJTru]

This is what im talking about

[KiwiRS4T]

That's why I suggested reading just the last 15 pages. Ideas have developed since that thread was started and oil drains at the back of the head are generally agreed to be a waste of time and proper sump venting to a catch can the way to go.

BTW RB26 and even RB30s can be made to spin to 10,000 rpm if you do it right.

[MJTru]

Im at page 16. Well im not having this problem with my 26 as yet. But all my 25 are doing this. Ill read the last 15 pages then. I still want to read the whole thing though. Heres an idea. Just an idea though. See that other are open to menstion ideas. From the back of the head drain cant some kind of pump be added and controlled to come one at a predetermined rpm point. Using a rpm trigger switch. This pump will be inline and pump the extra oil from the head to the sump. Just an idea.

Edited March 30, 2015 by MJTru

[gtr jet]

I track my built 26 regularly and always used to fill the catch can cos I'd rev the shit out of it.

Now I've learnt to keep it below 8K rpm and can do a whole day with out touching the can.

Motor is pretty basic, standard sump with Tomei baffle, N1 pump, oil restrictor & enlarged oil returns. Just wish I had of known about putting a sump breather in years ago when it was built.

[MJTru]

Explain a little more about the sump breather. You have photos of it mate.

[gtr jet]

I don't actually have a breather, I meant I wish I had one fitted. If you flick a couple of pages back on this thread there should be some images of peoples set-ups hence the reason for Bob recommending to read the last 15 pages.

[MJTru]

I am as we speak. Just to work but im am reading it as time permits. What funny is someone mentioned venting the sump would let the oil drain easier. This I read in the first 16 pages. But at that time peopel weren't jumping on board. I will go back and reread that. So venting the sump will work. Hmmmm??? if this is the case I have to mod my setup. See I only have one oil return on my racefab sump and that goes to the rear head oil return. The front turbo drain is for the single gtx3582r. I can pull the sump out to do that so im thinking ill move the head drain to the second spot that was used for the rear turbo when it was stock. Then vent the sump.

What you guys feel about that. I drag racing this car and intend on spinning the motor to 9k on some days.

Edited March 30, 2015 by MJTru