Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

As most of you track guys know after Sandown on Aug 12th the only track day we have on our official calender for the rest of the year is Calder on Oct 22nd.

So to give us something to do I've been looking at a trip to NSW later in the year to do a bit of motorsport.

Now firstly let me say that trying to find the best time to do this isn't easy as weekends - especially in Oct-Nov-Dec seem to be dominated on the tracks in Syd by offical motorsport events like 6hr historic enduro's, Australian Super Bikes, National Racing Series, etc.

The only offical "sprints" that seem to be on are run by the CSCA - which is simlialr to the MSCA down here in Vic - so only members of the participating car clubs can attend.

That being said all is not lost. There seems to be a good opportunity for a week long road trip over Cup Week and if there is some interest we'll get something happening.

This is the planned Schedule.

1. Tuesday 7th November - Drive to Goulbourn/Wakefield

Accommodation - Wakefield Park Cabins - $50pp/pn - includes breakfast (2 nights)

accom.jpg

2. Wednsday - Wakefield Park

Cost - $90

Require - CAMS L2S or Wakefield Park License (Cost $40pa)

track_arial.jpg

3. Thursday - Cruise to Sydney via twisties (Brisby Route)

Accommodation - Sydney - TBA (2 nights)

4. Friday 10th November - Eastern Creek

Cost - $120

Require - CAMS L2S ($85pa for any Englishmen out there that don't know this already)

Limit: - 30 places (first in best dressed)

Please fill out the following disclaimer before coming to the event.

http://www.eastern-creek-raceway.com/pdf/I..._Disclaimer.pdf

arial_dropshadow_450.jpg

5. Saturday 11th November - Cruise Home

6. Sunday 12th November - Phillip Island with PAIRC! :(

Notes:

Wakefield is great. I really hate to admit it but I enjoyed driving it more than any track here in Vic except Phillip Island. They do their own insurance (hence the Wakefield license) but it means no CAMS required. But if you have a CAMS license no Wakefield license is required. At this stage the plan is to just go there as it's an Open Day (so 20min sessions. Last time I went on an open day I was the only car there so I did laps until my car filled up with dirt - long story). Its also a track where you pretty much can't hit anything so it's very safe. I went off on 10 of the 11 corners during my visit!

If we get enough interest however, we will hire the track out with the NSW guys and run a full timed day. If we get 30 entries in total it will be about $100pp. Either way we'll have plenty of people on hand to take times for anyone coming up.

Eastern Creek is also a non-timed day. Other than people we bring with us. If we go ahead with this I will be trying to get enough helpers to make sure we all get our laps timed however. It's a speed track similar to PI so should be fantastic. We do only have limited spots however as it is supposed to be a day for testing of full race cars only. Will be a good chance to compare times to race trim cars against our own however.

QLD Thread

Any interested parties please post up your interest in here:

Syd Trippers:

Drivers Vic

Snowman (R34 GTR)

Aaron (R34 GTR)

John (R33 GTR)

Scotsman (R33 GTR)

Jack (R33 GTR)

Gareth (R32 GTR)

Nige (R32 GTR)

Brisby (R32 GTST)

Alan (EVO VII)

James (EVO VIII MR)

Drivers QLD

Bunta (R32 GTST) - Wakefield only.

Groupies

Bec

Paul and Sarah

Scott

Anna (QLD)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125211-nsw-motorsports-excursion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 351
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This sounds great!

Do we have any idea on transport costs? I got a quote from TNT to book a whole truck; at a "dicounted" price, it was still going to cost over $350 each way, not willing to spend over $700 to just transport the car. :)

Jack! any contacts for towing our cars up there.

Sorry Ray, no 'mates' that do this..

Best bet would be to get the TNT race transporter which fits 6 cars, not sure on exact pricing but if you want your car to get there in 1 piece without front bars being damaged, this is the go..

People, jsut drive. I have riven to Sydney on a Sunday arvo, worked Mon & Tues, then drove homeTuesday arvo. Its not that bad a drive, and sure to be better and safer if there are a few cars looking out for one another...hell i drove from Sydney to Shepparton on a Friday night when i wasnt even driving....so in closing. Its not too bad a drive!

People, jsut drive. I have riven to Sydney on a Sunday arvo, worked Mon & Tues, then drove homeTuesday arvo. Its not that bad a drive, and sure to be better and safer if there are a few cars looking out for one another...hell i drove from Sydney to Shepparton on a Friday night when i wasnt even driving....so in closing. Its not too bad a drive!

I agree. Its not that bad. For most cars i doubt fuel would be as bad as Ash suggested. It been a while since i drove up but i think i was doing Melbourne to Sydney in 2 tanks.

Im interested, but it will depend on if i can afford it at the time.

Guys,

I will be looking into transport costs. I know last time with the trailer and fuel it was about $600. But at the same time there were 3 of us in the car and we seem to have a big interest from people already that just want to come up for the trip and don't necessarily need to bring their cars.

I don't mind towing the car up again as the drive was easy and it may be that if we car pool a few people to share the costs it may be cheaper and easiler to do things this way.

But we also have a new club sponsor in Bechtrans Logistics that may be able to help us out with a transport deal. I'll be contacting them once I have a better idea on exactly how many cars we are looking at. But we still need to factor into this that we'll still need to get upto Syd and back on top of the transport costs.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...