Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i remember when i sold my old 33

they picked up on a few things but they were bit lenient with the HIDs cos i told them i was selling it to another p plater who wanted the HIDs in the car

but long as the main stuff is all ok before tested like tyres, breaks and no oil leaks and all driving lights are working dont see you having too many troubles getting it from SA to VIC.

Best bet is make everything 100% before talking to any shops

Agree.

James, best to get everything sorted before the roady anyway, will save you headaches later on. Congrats on the purchase too! Pics please :)

Agree.

James, best to get everything sorted before the roady anyway, will save you headaches later on. Congrats on the purchase too! Pics please :)

Yeah I think thats what il do..just a hassle getting it around with no license..have to wait for friends when they have days off. Im researching on what brake pads and discs I should get which im nearly decided then book it to my uncles work shop and get all the worn/cracked seals replaced and she will be A1. Dw pix will be coming im gunna make a thread soon :)

can anyone shed any light on the new roadworthy laws? having pictures taken with wheels off when getting a roadworthy?

I've heard pictures of all suspension parts and engine bay ect are taken. All things like adjustable arms, coilovers ect do not meet RWC requirements and as such you won't be able to get one.

accordingly - this means cars must be 100% stock to pass a RWC?

its' game over.:unsure:

can anyone shed any light on the new roadworthy laws? having pictures taken with wheels off when getting a roadworthy?

I've heard pictures of all suspension parts and engine bay ect are taken. All things like adjustable arms, coilovers ect do not meet RWC requirements and as such you won't be able to get one.

accordingly - this means cars must be 100% stock to pass a RWC?

its' game over.:unsure:

Where did you hear about this?

I was told about the taking pics requirement when I got my roady last week, haven't seen any info on the net though. Not sure that suspension arms are unroadworthy either, the guy said nothing about my coilovers or other mods

A road worthy inspection is a visual inspection. They do not put a wrench on your car.

Well they never really should have anyway, its just an inspection.

Ive rarely seen anyone touch my car when getting a RWC done. Usually sighting for split boots, oil leaks and anything loose. Brake test (driven) and thats about it really.

From what a quick google search has shown me people are freaking out about modifications for no just reason and this new way of going about things is more about shutting down dodgy rwc's than anything else.

I've been told about the picture issue from a number of mechanics who've been informed of this change by Vicroads. Apparently its coming in on September 1. No official word yet, so until then yes it is hear say and speculation, but it seems to be in existence to stamp out dodgy roadworthies. That being said, theres strong inconsistency between different workshops. I've never asked for a dodgy or chased one, but one shop wouldn't give me a rwc because I had no guard liner and had coilovers, whereas they were fine with HID's - which I know to be illegal. However another workshop were fine with no guard liner and coilovers, but told me to change HID's to pass RWC.

generally the smaller workshops are more lenient, especially with modifications, as long as everything else ticks off as safe then having coilovers and arms aren't an issue. Then you have other places, larger shops and businesses like Kmart Tyre n Auto ect who won't let anything get past RWC if its not 100% standard. And just because something may be ADR approved does not nessecarily make it RWC approved, two different sets of rules, neither of which are binding on each other.

It's a big grey area and rather than cracking down on dodgy's with photographic proof, it would serve a better purpose to make guidlines of what is and what isn't roadworthy more obvious and clear so at least then, theres some transparency and cohesion with workshops all providing the same service.

Link to the formal announcement please.

Haven't got link but got screenshot of letter sent to testers

Must photograph

- picture of car on premises where tested

- Vin detials

- picture on hoist

- underbody

- odometer (I think)

Trying to keep fkd cars off the road pics ate kept by rwc tester incase vicroads request them

You got info on engineering and emissions test etc price wise mate is looking into it and said it's cheap? My understanding it was big $$?

  • Like 1

engineers is 650-700 which includes brake test etc. Go to Enkleman in Braeside, cheapest in Vic

Ive heard more on this RWC stuff. It's not a problem at all.

"Sorry VicRoads, my hard drive had a failure"

SIF as Mechanics to keep pictures, what a load of shit. Some of them don't even run computer systems.

Another moroinic VicRoads decision that will see people hand in their RWC tester licence as its simply not worth the effort anymore

I'm organising a RWC for a car I'm selling and was more than a little miffed to find out in the opinion of the inspector my zorst was too loud. He's suggested I get it measured and if lower than the legal he'll pass it. I'll do this but to save a lot of friggin around if he's right, can anyone tell me the quickest / simplest / DIY / home brewed way of making the zorst quieter? I'm sure there's a thread so can you link me up?

Re the above about photos, I've been selling a few cars lately and all of the above re photos etc have been discussed so I'd suggest it's true. I'm unsure of the exact timing of the introduction but it is tighter now due to a recent change and will become tighter again shortly.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...