Show Me Your Racing Machines

[N1GTR]

That last pic is really good!

[Marlin]

Thanks Russ!

And that pic, I remember it well "Right three, Downhill, caution slippy onto bridge"

So what does Appo do? Uses the white line to "tip her in a bit better" he reckons

[evil_weevil]

the blue 34 - a w e s o m e ! ! !

[swanny180]

Hahaha yeah +1 for last pic being awesome

Looks tough!!

Any reason for keeping the carpet by the way? Just curious!

[Duncan]

just the regs, carpet is required. In fact Targa spec is 99% stock. Its funny how similar the r34 is to the r32 once you pull all the interior out, almost a carbon copy

[Boosted Zed]

just the regs, carpet is required. In fact Targa spec is 99% stock. Its funny how similar the r34 is to the r32 once you pull all the interior out, almost a carbon copy

My zed is stock too. Stock UAS zed version.

Nice Link Beer Baron and these are probably the best arms on the market.

Geometry changes

Some good info here but it is not a matter of just throwing these parts at the car and need to measure adjust and test. The bump steer fixing rod ends outer sockets need to be tested on the car as we found a few mm either way made a big difference to bump steer. They are often too low and need to be machined or spacers removed if they come with this option. Bottom line is there is a sweet spot and need to measure bump steer changes to find this spot or ideal height of these steering arms. Also changing roll centre by fitting these lower arms with roll centre adjustable rod ends over power the top arms and cause more camber and toe change even though it does raise the roll centre. It is better to raise the pivot point on the top arms on cradle which we are in process of doing. Lot easier to do a GTR than a zed as chassis rail on zed is lower and tighter clearance.

[DumHedz]

the other way to keep the suspension geometry pretty good is not to drop the ride height too far. It works well on mine anyway!

[Simonster]

Here's me having a go QR back in August in my little S13, not too bad for an old bucket

Edited October 29, 2007 by Simonster

[Kaido_RR]

through i post this up in here,

looking to upgrade the lsd, whats people's recommendations for track spec cars 1.5 or 2way?

[neil_se]

1 or 1.5way, my 2 way locks up too readily under deceleration.

[phunky_monkey]

I like my 2 way, but it is a bit sketchy under hard braking. I can't attribute that fully to the 2 way though

[sav man]

I opened up unique cars today to find a wright up on troy, some chick and rb20 powah at the dutton. had some good pics of the car. And according the article troy is a crazy driver, crazy but fast, and likes passing ferrari's round the outside

[Eug]

or like this even better:

i have ordered one of these Maple A-1 Gages, should arrive in a few weeks. will keep everyone updated once i get some camber & castor bushes in.

anyone know the equations required to calculate castor?

[evil_weevil]

edit - the issue with the brack VC

Good read

[Duncan]

I chopped everyone at the state champs, even the evos. The other 31 cars arrived later once they stopped 2wd wheel spinning

but then one of the sneaky buggers got past and I was running 2nd for 7 laps.

then the motor blew up. pretty much the normal day for a GTR

[giant]

good pics dunc!!

thats not the norm is it?? hehe

i know the feeling

russ

[N1GTR]

Duncan,where were those pics taken?

[intune]

Duncan, do you know what caused the motor to blow?

[Beer Baron]

i have ordered one of these Maple A-1 Gages, should arrive in a few weeks. will keep everyone updated once i get some camber & castor bushes in.

anyone know the equations required to calculate castor?

I don't know it off the top of my head. but basically you need to mark out on the ground 20 degrees of steering angle both ways. turn the wheel 20* left, measure camber. turn is 20 right, measure camber. do some maths. bingo castor. lol.

but it's not so crucial just for stuffing around the know the exact degree of castor. you can adjust just by measuring the rod length. shorten the rod for more castor, lengthen for less. just keep both sides the same and adjust it till you are happy with how it feels.

you will probably find the only things you bother adjusting at the track are toe. maybe camber if you are hardcore!

[Eug]

turn is 20 right, measure camber. do some maths. bingo castor. lol.

but it's not so crucial just for stuffing around the know the exact degree of castor. you can adjust just by measuring the rod length. shorten the rod for more castor, lengthen for less. just keep both sides the same and adjust it till you are happy with how it feels.

you will probably find the only things you bother adjusting at the track are toe. maybe camber if you are hardcore!

you make it sound so easy eh Rich

i'm running a compromise alignment for street & track now, and now that i've got a set of track rims which i intend to throw some semi slicks on, i hope to be able to run more camber and fiddle with toe settings.

are castor and front camber adjustments independent of each other? (i.e. will adjusting one affect the other?)

this will be all a steep learning process, will just fiddle with sydneykid's recommended settings until i find one suitable.

I found this equation:

Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)]

but it was for a mazda miata (mx5?) - i never did physics (study biotechnology ) but the equation seems fairly measurement based. the only number i'm not sure about is the 3.1415, which from memory looks like the value for pi (however i always used 3.142 at school).