Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just the regs, carpet is required. In fact Targa spec is 99% stock. Its funny how similar the r34 is to the r32 once you pull all the interior out, almost a carbon copy

My zed is stock too. Stock UAS zed version.

circuit_battle.jpg

Nice Link Beer Baron and these are probably the best arms on the market.

Geometry changes

Some good info here but it is not a matter of just throwing these parts at the car and need to measure adjust and test. The bump steer fixing rod ends outer sockets need to be tested on the car as we found a few mm either way made a big difference to bump steer. They are often too low and need to be machined or spacers removed if they come with this option. Bottom line is there is a sweet spot and need to measure bump steer changes to find this spot or ideal height of these steering arms. Also changing roll centre by fitting these lower arms with roll centre adjustable rod ends over power the top arms and cause more camber and toe change even though it does raise the roll centre. It is better to raise the pivot point on the top arms on cradle which we are in process of doing. Lot easier to do a GTR than a zed as chassis rail on zed is lower and tighter clearance.

I opened up unique cars today to find a wright up on troy, some chick and rb20 powah at the dutton. had some good pics of the car. And according the article troy is a crazy driver, crazy but fast, and likes passing ferrari's round the outside :)

or like this even better:

i.jpg

k.jpg

j.jpg

i have ordered one of these Maple A-1 Gages, should arrive in a few weeks. will keep everyone updated once i get some camber & castor bushes in.

anyone know the equations required to calculate castor?

I chopped everyone at the state champs, even the evos. The other 31 cars arrived later once they stopped 2wd wheel spinning

oranpark1.jpg

oranpark2.jpg

oranpark3.jpg

but then one of the sneaky buggers got past and I was running 2nd for 7 laps.

then the motor blew up. pretty much the normal day for a GTR

i have ordered one of these Maple A-1 Gages, should arrive in a few weeks. will keep everyone updated once i get some camber & castor bushes in.

anyone know the equations required to calculate castor?

I don't know it off the top of my head. but basically you need to mark out on the ground 20 degrees of steering angle both ways. turn the wheel 20* left, measure camber. turn is 20 right, measure camber. do some maths. bingo castor. lol.

but it's not so crucial just for stuffing around the know the exact degree of castor. you can adjust just by measuring the rod length. shorten the rod for more castor, lengthen for less. just keep both sides the same and adjust it till you are happy with how it feels.

you will probably find the only things you bother adjusting at the track are toe. maybe camber if you are hardcore!

turn is 20 right, measure camber. do some maths. bingo castor. lol.

but it's not so crucial just for stuffing around the know the exact degree of castor. you can adjust just by measuring the rod length. shorten the rod for more castor, lengthen for less. just keep both sides the same and adjust it till you are happy with how it feels.

you will probably find the only things you bother adjusting at the track are toe. maybe camber if you are hardcore!

you make it sound so easy eh Rich :D

i'm running a compromise alignment for street & track now, and now that i've got a set of track rims which i intend to throw some semi slicks on, i hope to be able to run more camber and fiddle with toe settings.

are castor and front camber adjustments independent of each other? (i.e. will adjusting one affect the other?)

this will be all a steep learning process, will just fiddle with sydneykid's recommended settings until i find one suitable.

I found this equation:

Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)]

but it was for a mazda miata (mx5?) - i never did physics (study biotechnology :domokun:) but the equation seems fairly measurement based. the only number i'm not sure about is the 3.1415, which from memory looks like the value for pi (however i always used 3.142 at school).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...