Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey if I won Lotto it would definately be high on my car list...Unfortunately they are just not practical if it means you need to transport more than one passenger.Great playtoy though

  • Replies 312
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nothing beats the high burble coming from the exhaust of a 2j.

f**king awesome after 2500rpm, freaking F1 exhaust tone. i would sell my line in a second if someone offered me a good supra.

but that in mind. i imagine the maintenance and running costs would be more than a line. if your lucky tho and get the vvt-i model expect 400+kms to a tank.

(im just basing that on a mates 2j soarer :rolleyes:)

Edited by r33cruiser
nothing beats the high burble coming from the exhaust of a 2j.

f**king awesome after 2500rpm, freaking F1 exhaust tone. i would sell my line in a second if someone offered me a good supra.

but that in mind. i imagine the maintenance and running costs would be more than a line. if your lucky tho and get the vvt-i model expect 400+kms to a tank.

(im just basing that on a mates 2j soarer :D)

Shame you dont have a stockish 32GTR, cause im happy to swap my supra for another gtr

Everyone I know who owns, or has owned a supra, is a tool...

Even my auntie...

:(

Those who complain about the weight of the supra are totally misinformed, the supra weighs 1510kg go and check the weight of an r33 or 34 gtr and you will get a surprise.

Make up your mind. A 2wd GTST is minimum 200 kgs lighter, a GTR has 4wd. The Supra is 2wd and weighs as much as a 4wd.

The 2JZ shits all over the RB26 for strength, durability and potential.

Which part of the 2JZ? The exhaust manifold is shit, the inlet manifold is arguably the worst design on a performance engine ever, the valve train gear is very average to say the least. I'd put an RB26 block up against one any day, same for the crank. That's a lot of dissadvantages that are only offset by a $600 set of rods and $800 worth of pistons. BIG DEAL.

The six throttlebody manifold on the RB26 is a beautiful thing but is a negligable advantage in the overall scheme of things. Lets face it, that extra .4 of a litre more than makes up for those throttle bodies.

Impossible, the throttle bodies are all about response, the 0.4 litre does nothing for that. In fact the longer stroke (where the 0.4 litre comes from) is arguably worse for that.

The 6 speed Getrag is near invinceable, there are supras popping the front wheels off the ground run after run will over 1000rwhp and still standing upto the power, torque and abuse on an unopened gearbox. It is possible to break one but very rare all the same unlike anything nissan.

R34GTR's have the same gearbox

Yes the stock turbos are a pain in the ass. but there are many options if you are a switched on supra owner. There are many supras running high flowed steel wheeled twins making 320+rwkw. My cousins does 327rwkw on US spec factory turbos, there is now also a manufacturer who replaces the standard cartridge with a GT28R cartridge not to mention the number of single turbo kits available.

Stock standard R34GTR turbos shit all them.

Traction issues, what traction issues??? You can fit 325's on the rear just by rolloing the lip and getting the right offset.

Do the numbers, 315 x 2 = 630 mm, compared to 265 x 4 = 1060 mm.

Let's see a full weight manual Supra do 8's on radials.

By the way, its just not a fair comparison. The supra so far above the gtst(which was the original caomparison remember?) its not fair to compare.

What are you comparing? GTST's or GTR's, you can't selectively swap between them to score points. An R32GTST is almost 250 kgs lighter than a Supra. You can't make that up, especially when you stick an RB30 in the R32GTST. A GTR is 4wd, you can't compare a 2wd (that weighs the same), the 4wd wins hands down every time.

Supra Vs Gtr, well they are chalk and cheese and both have their strong and weak points.

The Supra has two strong points, rods and pistons. That leaves 3,000 odd points in favour of the GTR.

I am not biased, i am experienced and have owned the cars in question plus many others and if i wanted many miles of trouble free enjoyable driving(sometimes a little spirited) then i would pick the supra. Skylines, including gtr's(the r34 less so) are just too expensive to make strong, reliable and powerful.

I have been on circuits all over Australia with R32/33/34's since 1990 and I have not been beaten once, not one single time, not ever by a Supra. We raced a Supra for 3 years, developed it as much as we could and the R32GTR was 5 seconds a lap faster than it's best, on the GTR's first day out.

Cheers

Gary

Man.. who cares?

Let him talk smack..

The Skyline vs Supra riot has been going on for many many years now mate..

Build a bridge and get over it.. if your "mate" is such a top bloke why would you care what he sais anyways?

Man.. who cares?

Let him talk smack..

The Skyline vs Supra riot has been going on for many many years now mate..

Build a bridge and get over it.. if your "mate" is such a top bloke why would you care what he sais anyways?

I have been on circuits all over Australia with R32/33/34's since 1990 and I have not been beaten once, not one single time, not ever by a Supra. We raced a Supra for 3 years, developed it as much as we could and the R32GTR was 5 seconds a lap faster than it's best, on the GTR's first day out.

Cheers

Gary

sums it all up nicely

i dont see how its possible to develope a car so far, and have it be beaten by 5 seconds on the GTR's first outing, not doubting it happened, but there is certainly something being left out, 5 seconds is HUGEE

and you'd like to see a supra do 8's on radials? they're already into the sevens mate (MSP did 7.8), 3300+pounds which i would deem full weight. a few have done 8's with stock 6 speed, Titan did 7.94 on stock 6 speed

as for traction in drag racing purposes, just find me how many skylines are running 9 sec passes on any tires, i have a list of 63 supras in the US alone that are doing 9's, and thats not even trying to find them, granted quite a few are on slicks, but there are heaps on radials too

i would also like to know what makes you say the inlet manifold on the supra is so crap? i've seen heaps of big horsepower cars using them succesfully

Can't believe this thread's still going, as if reading the topic title isn't bad enough

"Help me, my friend thinks his Supra is better than my Skyline, I don't know what to think" :(

There is much confusion in this thread.................I dn't even know what we are comparing anymore.

Penis size, him and his mate were arguing over who has the larger penis. I for one believe i have the larger penis.

Yeah im really bored at the moment.

i would take a supra over a skyline anyday at the end of the day supras are more superior cars than skylines expect for GTRs

Much what I was thinking...Supra is definately the better car than a GTST...GTR is my idol however...But I still wanna see supras doin quick circuit times...Their drag times and engine power impress the hell out of me..Why doesnt anybody circuit race them ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...