Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Powered Stagea (rs260's Or Modded 2.5's)


Lil_Bobby_260
 Share

Recommended Posts

dumps are 500-1000 a set. mild or stainless makes no difference to me, are you keeping the car for 20 years? you sure can't see them once they are in.

a mate doing the change for beer is a good deal - you need to get the turbos right out to change the dumps so it is a solid day's work if you know what you are doing - and lots of sore knuckles and lost skin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

He owns a carline mufflers. He'd just get his lackys to do it for a song. :-)

But im not paying 500-1000 for something that i dont think is gonna make a difference to my setup. Any gains would not be noticeable enough to warrant the cash. Not till the turbo upgrade, at any rate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a chat to andy - mate who owns the local carline mufflers. He is of the opinion that a set of dumps wont add anything noticeable to the performance, and that for the initial setup (pre-turbo upgrade) he can make a full length system that will flow very well and still be quiet enough so as not to attract attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the money, would these be much better than the current turbos? Also has a pair of R33 N1 turbos for sale.

Turbos for Sale

Could get these and dumps fitted at same time? Would definitely need the PFC then.

Also, have been quoted between $500 and $1400 to tune a PFC, even if i fit it myself! Is that standard? seems pretty full on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, interesting thread. My wife and I have been thinking about a replacement for our GTI-R. I would like a GTR and my wife would like a R34 4-door, so the Stagea RS260 seems like a good compromise. I've been trawling the internet a bit and hoping to find a review on how these things drive. Has anyone got any information?

I'd really like a GTR, but the car will be a daily driver for my wife. I think something like this is less likely to stand out in a carpark than a GTR.

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have started looking around at PFC's, a friend is running one in his 180SX with great success. I like the in car tunebility that it offers. I had a long read of PaulR33's write-up on it and it seems the goods if you can get one, with Apexi being finished now and all that. Will have to start scanning the forums for one i guess.

PFC is a good, easy solution to upgrading a computer.

as for the power fc. apexi is still open for business and you can still get a power fc, some models you cant. but 32, 33, 34 gtr are still avaliable i'm not sure what you use on a stagea?

As Angus mentioned, the PFC is still available for R32, R33 and R34 GT-Rs, so you shouldn't have much trouble finding one. Most sellers offer them with hand controllers anyway, and it opens up your options for finding a workshop to tune it for you. Try sourcing one from Sliding Performance, Aaron is a good guy and he's in Qld too.

For the stagea you use the one designed for R32/R33 GTRs. For Series two maybe the one for R34's but i dont believe so. Ive just read through a 70 page writeup from Paulr33 about it and learnt a lot. About 900 should get me one so its not as much as i had though. Still need to run a seperate boost controller with it tho.

Both s1 and s2 260RSs use the R33 GT-R engine and driveline, so use the R33 PFC. For a boost controller, try the GReddy Profec B Spec II - I was gonna buy the Apexi boost controller that plugs into the PFC for when I eventually install mine, but the GReddy unit is bound to be just as good, and a lot cheaper (shop around), so I'll go for that instead. I need to fill the hole in above my Defi controller anyway, so this will fit almost perfectly in that little hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the money, would these be much better than the current turbos? Also has a pair of R33 N1 turbos for sale.

Turbos for Sale

Could get these and dumps fitted at same time? Would definitely need the PFC then.

Also, have been quoted between $500 and $1400 to tune a PFC, even if i fit it myself! Is that standard? seems pretty full on.

Like i've been saying! get some new turbos, and be done with the ceramic shit its only going to let you down later on and you dont want to rebuild an engine...

as for the dumps, i wouldnt bother changing them unless your going to do turbos too.

Do a front pipe, and rest of exhaust if you dont want to do turbos at this stage.

as for the tune. it sounds realistic. but is a big margin.. shop around!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about those turbos in specific though? are they worth it for the money? or would an aextra $200 per turbo get me something much better? I figure if im going to do something that costs acouple of stacks, i dont mind going that lil bit further to do it right. If $1500 will get me that, but $2k will get me something much better, id do the 2k option. sure its easy for things to get out of hand with that mentality, gotta have your limit, but what do you think? theyre a good choice for dollars?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i own a 260rs

mods:

trust t51-17zs

trust PEII exhaust

trust front and dumps

trust 720cc injectors

aftermarket fuel pump

power fc d-jetro with boost controller

hpi manifolds

K&N pods

430rwhp@17psi

plus full custom stereo install

Directed 15" roof screen

Nesa dvd player

soon to come are 2 more alpine 7" headrest monitors and xbox 360

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i own a 260rs

mods:

trust t51-17zs

trust PEII exhaust

trust front and dumps

trust 720cc injectors

aftermarket fuel pump

power fc d-jetro with boost controller

hpi manifolds

K&N pods

430rwhp@17psi

plus full custom stereo install

Directed 15" roof screen

Nesa dvd player

soon to come are 2 more alpine 7" headrest monitors and xbox 360

nice mods Daniel, hows the car feel now compared to stock? heaps more power obviously :P Are u planning on a run down the 1/4 mile anytime soon? ill be interested soon myself and see what it can do on current power level. Who did your tuning?

cheers mate

bard

Edited by unique1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had my 1998 260RS for just over a year now. At the moment has

KN panel filter (autobarn)

PFC (R33 GTR) with with hand controller and Boost Controller (Nengun).

3.5 inch stainless exh with hiflow cat (CES)

Ready to go on

GT-SS's (Nengun) with (HPC) ceramic coating on turbine housings

Ceramic coated split dump pipes (CES)

3 inch merging to 3.5 inch stainless twin front pipe (CES)

Z32 AFMs (Just Jap)

Nismo in tank fuel pump (Greenline)

800cc sard twin outlet injectors (Greenline) (huge i know, but who knows what the future holds)

Still need a clutch before the turbos go on, will probably be Jim Berry or Direct Clutch.

Aiming for about 300-330awkw.

I have probably gone a little overboard on some of the parts, but I had a r32 gts-t which taught me a few lesson when it comes to modifying.

AFM's, injectors, and fuel pumps fail on cars over (and under) 10 years old. Might as well replace them now and not be chasing faults or blowing up the engine

Power FC is good for plug and play, easy adjustment for Z32 AFM's and boost, and hand controller can double as multifunction guage (not keen on screwing guages in the dash). Tuning was done by Stu at Jarrett Performance in Maryborough (went up there cause i've known Stu for ages and he does a tip-top job)

I intend to keep this car for a while so a stainless exh was a worthwhile investment. CES did an awesome job. With the stock dumps and front pipe the system is db legal (just) and doesn't drone, and doesn't hang too low. This set-up certainly wasn't the cheapest but I wanted a quality product and thats what i got.

Go for a known product when it comes to turbos. I experimented with the skyline and got a few headaches as a result. Have a power figure in mind and see what the people in the forums are using to get it. I was willing to sacrifice a little top end for a fat low-mid range, hence GT-SS's.

I wanted the wagon to look as stock as possible under the bonnet, don't feel the need to be defected.

The forums have so much info and all the advertisers I've used have been excellent.

post-36640-1204439094_thumb.jpg

post-36640-1204439145_thumb.jpg

post-36640-1204439185_thumb.jpg

post-36640-1204439228_thumb.jpg

post-36640-1204439265_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CES at Meadowbrook (Bris). Tried to keep it looking fairly stock.

Cost a bit more than I budgeted for but is quality system.

Give them a call for a quote.

Just had a read through some earlier posts. PFC definitely needs tuning from the factory maps (otherwise its ping city).

Advice to me was that the dumps are really hard to replace without taking the turbos off (mine are still sitting in the garage waiting for the turbo swap).

Be really careful with used turbos, afm's and injectors (they may cost you more in the long run).

Try and do mods all at once if you can. Should save you heaps in tuning time and money.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks fo the advice - your also the second person in this thread to recommend CES so thats a good sign.

For the first 12 months ive limited myself to a boost controleer, larger FMIC, new exhaust (from front pipe) and a better air filter. $$ doesnt permit much more!

Should see it breathing much better, and have a good dollar-power increase ratio. What do the turbos run stock, PSI wise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks fo the advice - your also the second person in this thread to recommend CES so thats a good sign.

For the first 12 months ive limited myself to a boost controleer, larger FMIC, new exhaust (from front pipe) and a better air filter. $$ doesnt permit much more!

Should see it breathing much better, and have a good dollar-power increase ratio. What do the turbos run stock, PSI wise?

dont worry about a front mount till you get your turbos, put that money on a pfc. I would do zorst 1st then intake then pfc/tune boost controler after that you may wanna look at a new clutch? but I dont know your cars history you may already have a good clutch???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only doing the front mount upgrade cos i have a 600x300x100 sitting in the shed. Car is completely untouched performance wise, no mods at all. I have a contact at exedy so i will cross that bridge when i come to it - when the clutch stops... stops clutching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had a thought. I still haven't confirmed what additive was used but, the oil from this analysis was only 5,000 k's old and I believe was Mobil 1. Given that the oil was good and fresh, would there still be wear in the engine? What I'm trying to articulate is, I understand that internal wear will happen with incorrect viscosity or not changing oil enough (and maybe other reasons also). But would the wear continue to occur when the oil is changed? Surely it would stop wearing, ie the damage was done? If thats the case, could this suggest maybe that the lead count is not wear? I dont know if that makes sense. It does in my head.
    • Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once.
    • I recall you're going to launch the OEM ECU into the bin in another post, unpopular opinion but throw the AAC, IACV, cable throttle & pedal all into the bin and convert to DBW e-throttle & pedal. For quick install (minimum fab work) these guys have a great bit of kit: https://outsidergarage.com/products/nissan-rb25-oem-dbw-conversion-kit Hit up @outsidergarage for more details. (I'm not affiliated nor do I use them)
    • Nice! I hope it all works out. At least now you know the track as well and can build from last year. Looking forward to see your car in action again.   Ooof. Godspeed!
    • We let the engine warm up as much as it could while stationary and with the head check plugged into the open radiator but I see you're point that it would be difficult to get it to the point where it begins to overheat. The overheating issue only began after the initial problem with the empty radiator. Until then I had driven the car almost daily without any issues (with the gktech fan etc.) I'm beginning to suspect butters may be right and that it's a head gasket issue, just difficult to find the time to work on the car lately. And whether or not it's even worth doing the head gasket etc. on the 20 when I am, extremely slowly, building a 25 for this car.
×
×
  • Create New...