Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even GTSt and GT-t models are starting to creep up, trying to jump on the GT-R price rise bandwagon

Carsales have a few R34 non-turbo 25GT for 14-20k, auto R33 GTSt for 15k, and turbo R34 Gt-t are in the low to mid 20's all of a sudden (one dealer wants 30 for a "low" km car)

and then theres this... http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1994/SSE-AD-2765592/?Cr=393

and this one, ready to ship to usa

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1998/SSE-AD-148104/?Cr=421

it will spike up and flatten out but they will continue up. but i simpy dont think in 10 years when the us market opens up we will be seeing many under 100k

Edited by GH05T
  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, jake26 said:

Will these current prices hold/rise until the US can import them? Or is it a case of riding the wave for a few years until it drops?

I seriously don't believe they will drop, ever. Maybe in 100 years+ when we're all dead lol. They are going to continue rising and eventually flatten out at a price above 100 grand easily.

Edited by Gymkhana
12 hours ago, jake26 said:

Will these current prices hold/rise until the US can import them? Or is it a case of riding the wave for a few years until it drops?

I'm with Gymkhana on this one. Don't think they (specifically R34) prices are dropping for a long time, if ever, especially since the US market is only just beginning. 

Maybe in 15-20 years when the US owners actually realise what goes into owning these types of cars, but even then, I doubt it. 

  • 3 weeks later...

My two cents on this topic; Good quality 33s are on the rise. I started looking around this time last year. Prices were mid to low 20s for a 33 (decent ones) in the time it's taken me to pull my finger out clean stock 33s are around 30-35k. Of course i bought way outside of stock so my car doesnt count as normal pricing. But i can say a R33 LM Limited, cannot be had for less than 45k in Australia right now. They are crazy money from Japan!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Found this article. Dam good read would say its spot on atm but what if the maintenance, parts available and reducing quality of vehicle are reduced, wouldn't you think showroom standard sky rocket but substandard just settle down.

http://www.bnr34gt-r.com/2016/12/the-ultimate-r34-skyline-gt-r-buyers.html?m=1

  • Like 4
1 hour ago, pol1on1 said:

Found this article. Dam good read would say its spot on atm but what if the maintenance, parts available and reducing quality of vehicle are reduced, wouldn't you think showroom standard sky rocket but substandard just settle down.

http://www.bnr34gt-r.com/2016/12/the-ultimate-r34-skyline-gt-r-buyers.html?m=1

Excellent read, thanks for sharing.......

Bob.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

This car has just received an offer from Bologna 3 days ago.

ETang-0283_zps0223f795.jpg

 

That offer has been passed on, to another SAU Member with a BNR34 N1.
Negotiations are continuing between the pair (and even myself to reflect upon), but there's not much change of 300,000AUD
Congratulations to them both, if there's an 'end-game'.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saw this video today from Adam LZ.    Long story short is he is claiming that the load from the engine fan once the fan clutch heats up(engaged) is increasing the getrag rattle(at idle) when you don't have a dual mass flywheel.  Before I go buying an electric fan setup .... Anyone heard of this ?    I must admit when my car is cold the getrag is pretty quiet and I do notice the rattle after it is all warmed up. I've always assumed this is due to the gearbox oil temp and tolerances of metal.       
    • Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
×
×
  • Create New...