Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've built a a pair for Chequrered tuning's LS1 V8, that is mainly getting the advantage of running extra timing for the high comp V8. I'm awaiting on the manifold for my GTR, So I don't currently have a result for this particular turbocharger. Are you looking for some thing that suits a Rb20det?

How ever I have do have an result using the exact same compressor and turbine, except been in a VNT housing. You can reference to the ATR43SS4-Alpha model. That would give you an approximate peek power and boost to power ratio.

While I'm in here, I have twin GT-RSs on my RB2630 and the rear wheels are choking it up top, is there an option to fit a bigger turbine wheel ?

Just a quick update. I'm in the process of making a 55mm exhaust wheel for SR20det motor. That is a mm a side bigger then your GTRs turbine all around. I will doing some evaluations ready, they should be the solution for your current issue on the Rb2630 and pickup more mid / top rang torque also.

Haha oops, for some reason I thought they where 11 blade, was thinking of something else :/

How long till you start doing these and what would be a guesstimate of cost to rebuild two turbos with these wheels ?

Grinding shaft at moment, probably two weeks away. If you wish to send me the compressor wheel I can definitely build them with the new exhaust wheel.

Some updates. Those are videos sent in by John Reco, fastest lap SAU VIC track day last week. Fastest lap:

fronts.jpg
Hypergear 21U highflow turbo on standard manifold
Havoc custom pipework and exhaust
Chequred Tuning 300kw responsive tune E85
Motul Fluids 8100 15w50, Comp Gear Oil & RBF600
Tyrepower Frankston wheel alignment
4.3 Diff gears
285/30 R18 Yokohama Neova AD08R

  • Like 1

Should be able to customize turbine housings. Depending on what sort of car it is for.

comps.jpg

Further development into the ATR28SS Alpha Series based my S14 with a SR20det motor using BC S2 cams.

This is a base line for CBB SS2 Alpha version, Vnt is not current engaged. Final result of 302rwkws on 24psi P98 fuel.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

SS2 Alpha Base line compare to Standard SS2:

ss2vspower.jpg

Makes the same amount of power, but is slightly more responsive.

ss2vsboost.jpg

Base line Vs Garrett GT2871R in .64 rear:

powerv2871.jpg

boostv2871.jpg

Its currently making 190rwkws and 21psi @ 4000RPM. It drives pretty good the way it is. The goal would be matching the GT2871 curve without losing any top end.

  • 2 weeks later...

So I am helping someone make their RB25 Skyline go a bit quicker, so after much discussion the choice to go with an ATR43-SS2 was made - as soon as we nut out how to best pay across international borders we may have the first Hypergear turbo on NZ soil that I am aware of. Looking forward to checking one of these things out in person after all the discussion, and will be nice to have first hand experience of the SS2 :)

If I'm allowed I'll post results after we are done with it - will be internally gated, stock manifolds all around, BP98 on a stock internal RB25.

  • Like 1

Firstly sorry for being lazy. But what is the best direct bolt in turbo for an R33 gts on E85 shooting for around 400rwhp with as much response as poss. Or is it worth going external gate and or big dump?

Depending on how lenient the dyno is he will be getting about 340-370 hp around there, varies alot with dyno's.

Thats at 16-20 psi

I'll be tuning the internally gated one on BP98 with a Dynapack hub dyno, probably not as tough an audience as you guys are overall used to - though similar to some. Will probably go for around 18psi, but will see how knock limited it is and decide whether to go higher from there.

SS1PU Internal Gate will do it, I personally prefer to run an external gate because you can sneak in more timing

Thanks

Is the ATR43ss2 a lot bigger or ok for what I'm looking at? Don't mind going external gate, prob off exhaust housing.

This is for a track car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...