Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[DaveO74]

sweet

[SimonR32]

Isnt the rpm on the right hand side in the second one?

Only road speed in the first one though, cant understand why they do road speed, much easier to understand and get a gauge of lag from rpm, maybe its a V8 thing...

No, it isnt RPM on the right hand side... its tractive effort/torque

and RPM is just a multiple of the road speed so if you want rpm you just have to find the right ratio

May be a stupid question but what does tractive effort scaling mean?

you have 2 lines on the graphs, power (with a scale on the left) and torque/tractive effort (with a scale on the right)

RPM/speed is on the bottom axis

Thats one way, an easier way is to reference both the maps together, both have kilowatts on the left at the same intervals but on the right one is psi the other rpm, so if you have a look at the psi map you will see that full boost of 18psi hits at a tad under 168kw, on the rpm map you go to 168kw follow that line to the right and you will see that full boost is at 6000rpm

totally wrong

Ok I get ya, So do you know what tractive effort scaling means?

Does that mean they really did rev it to 8000+ or its just the way it displays because it overlays two dyno runs?

its a scale of the right of tractive effort/torque for the other curve on the graph... same as power scale on the right

it has nothing to do with rpm!!!

Edited August 20, 2009 by Cerbera

[geraus]

Hey there guys... Trent tuned my car with a boost leak and also my rear housing was maxing out with my folllowing mods were:

z32, 5 puk clutch, 3inch turboback exhaust with bashed out cat,walbro fuel pump 342,pody,740cc, pfc,return cooler,splitfures, g2 with stock rear housing,profec spec b II i have the same simular mods as Dav074's ! oh and my plugs are gapped at 0.8mm BCPR7ES.. now my problem is.. how can i fix my boost curve?

Also i was thinking.. how about if us people get a re-tune by blocking off the stock blow of valve? so we run our cars with no BOV? would it hold up our boost better? or should take off our stock actuator and put in a aftermarket one??

Edited August 20, 2009 by geraus

[DaveO74]

Hey Geraus, how have you been. I could be wrong but it seems to be the general rule of thumb that you use an actuator that has a "base" preload or tension or whatever its called as close to your desired boost as possible. So if you want to run say 18psi get a 17psi actuator...does that make sense?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You can try what I did and buy a HKS adjustable actuator which helps a TINY bit. The other problem you and I have geraus is our rear housings just won't cope hence the drop at the end. I had a talk with Stao on the phone a few weeks ago and we really need a .63 rear to get the best out of our highflows and to be able to run more boost with a flatter curve.

Keep an eye on your pm's mate cause I want to see what your profec is set at (gain etc) cause mines playing up.

Talk to you tonight

[geraus]

Hey dave! yeh man , Im using the stock acutator , What Tao did was he got a FILE and like shaved it down a bit and made it down more or something... And im using my Profec Spec B - II , Il give you the settings mayb 2morow morning... il be out tonight! and Dave! i love your car its lookin dam good brother!

And my other question is.. Do you reckon we should get another tune running no BOV? by blocking up the plate???

Edited August 21, 2009 by geraus

[W0rp3D]

No, it isnt RPM on the right hand side... its tractive effort/torque

and RPM is just a multiple of the road speed so if you want rpm you just have to find the right ratio

you have 2 lines on the graphs, power (with a scale on the left) and torque/tractive effort (with a scale on the right)

RPM/speed is on the bottom axis

totally wrong

its a scale of the right of tractive effort/torque for the other curve on the graph... same as power scale on the right

it has nothing to do with rpm!!!

Since your the man with the answers explain tractive effort then.......

[SS8_Gohan]

geraus/dave - look at my boost curve and urtwhistles curve as well. We both have G3's with OP6 rear housings, and we can't get flat curves. I reckon your car is fine geraus, boost curve looks about spot on for these turbo's.

[STATUS]

Have I been conned?

no the dyno dynamics dyno have their own measurement for torque (they cant display true NM) and that is what your seeing on right hand side.

Edited August 21, 2009 by URAS

[jrm]

Since your the man with the answers explain tractive effort then.......

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tractive_effort

[DaveO74]

geraus/dave - look at my boost curve and urtwhistles curve as well. We both have G3's with OP6 rear housings, and we can't get flat curves. I reckon your car is fine geraus, boost curve looks about spot on for these turbo's.

no the dyno dynamics dyno have their own measurement for torque (they cant display true NM) and that is what your seeing on right hand side.

Thanks Guys Id hate to think they reved the car to 8k+

[M3ld]

I just had a quick gaze at this thread. I don't know if it has already been covered or not....but what do these high flows compare with it the cunrrent lineup of hypergear turbos? Example is the op6 rear high flow the equivalant to a tr43 or something like that?

I have a power fc, front mount, plenum, apexi boost control. Just trying to work out if I should go the high flow route or something like a tr43 or 44. Lost!

[hypergear]

Most of High flowed turbos are running off a ATR28G2 CHRA. Their Wheels sizes are smaller compare to the xTR43x series to suit stock comp and turbine housings.

So it is very important to have a charging system that is balanced, oversized compressors cause surge and rise manifold pressure which force shift the shaft towards the compressor. At a point when over comes the engine oil pressure it will force the thrust collar to eat into the thrust bearing which will develop a shaft play over time. 20 thou and above will cause wheels to hit its housing and turbo fail.

With the xTR43x models they are not limited to the size of factory turbo housings. So we engineer the CHRA to a specific HP rating with matching wheels then choice the right size housings that suits different application.

Now the ATR43 has been engineered, They are a bolton turbo to suit RB2x manifold, lines, and dump. If you are chasing for high powers they are better recommendations then the stock high flow turbos and cost $500 more

ATR43 comes in 3x different profiles which is rated at 450HP, 480HP, and 500HP.

[M3ld]

Thanks for the reply. Well i'm gunna go past the highflow and get a bigger turbo.

Help me decide please haha....

I have a 25det, power fc, front mount, plenum already. I want to go high mount with an enternal gate. Why you ask? I want a high mount setup purely because I love the look of it over a low mount, and I want te power. I will be getting injectors aswell and possibly cams to support the upgrade. I am currently running 196rwkw with a stock turbo on 11psi. I want a good increase in power, say a turbo capable of 250rwkw or more while still trying to have some response and not be a complete lag master. What would you recommend in a high mount kit?

[hypergear]

We can build a ATR43 in .63 rear internal gate with 52T 76mm Comp which is good for up to 280rwkws with excellent street response. This turbo will bolt on to all your stock every thing except you need 90 degrees rubber pipe for stock cooler piping and a 3inch straight rubber pipe to connect stock intake pipe, Metal intake pipe is highly recommended.

[M3ld]

I'll continue this with pm mate.

[some_cs_student]

Hypergear, do you have anything to suit RB26's either no or in development? I'll be looking for something in the next 6months (I hope)...

[hypergear]

For GTRs we can only high flow your stock turbos. They will be in GT2860RS CHRA in Ball bearing or Idential ATR28G1 CHRA in sleeve bearing. High flowed turbos are good for around 550HP as a twin.

ATR28G1 Comp wheel and GTR factory Comp wheel

CHRA and reprofiled Housings

Assembled turbo:

[geraus]

So can we get a re-tune running no blow off valve?? by making up a blocking plate?? mayb that might stop the boost leaks?

[some_cs_student]

For GTRs we can only high flow your stock turbos. They will be in GT2860RS CHRA in Ball bearing or Idential ATR28G1 CHRA in sleeve bearing. High flowed turbos are good for around 550HP as a twin.

ATR28G1 Comp wheel and GTR factory Comp wheel

Sure, but do you manufacture from scratch GTR turbo's? Or only high-flow stock turbo's?

Do you have any dyno graphs of high-flowed stock turbo's?

I'd definitely be looking at ball bearing, but would like more info around response and dyno graphs of any customer who has done it before with an RB26 to check if its right for me. To give you an idea, I'm looking at something that would provide power spool around 3-4KRPM, (close to stock) with plenty of torque, the end power result isn't important but around 300 or more would be nice . In other words the 2860-9 in Garrett terms sounds good to me...

At the moment the motor has been rebuilt but possibly with standard internals

[some_cs_student]

Since, I can't edit, are we talking about this 2860RS (739548 - 5) which looks identical to a 2860-9 without the GT2560R compressor housing ?