Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We normally give out a 1KG spring in the actuator. which set around 9psi. We also have a 1.2KG spring which sets it around 13psi. The bracket is $10 additional. It mounts to the side of comp housing.

This is the 2nd half of the winton footage. I actually spoted my old sil180 project on the tracks. Its also a ATR28G4 Powered CA. made 317rwkws.

Hi, Is there where the new oil line screws into? It's the only threaded place i can see, but the threads are different.

post-66529-1255721184_thumb.jpg

that is where you screw it in but thats the wrong end of the oil line that end that you have goes into the engine block and the other end goes into your turbo with the supplied banjo bolt

It is very important that you must use the hollow screw supplied. Not your stock oil feeding screw. Also do not use silicon glue on the buttom of the drain flange.

Yes, the glue normally gets crushed into the drain pipe and blocks it up.

Also I like to update that Powered Up options for, 2IU, OP6 and .63 ATR43 turbine housings is now available. It can increase about 15~20KWs in between 4000~6000RPM but will lose about 20% in response pre-4000RPM.

This option cost $150 Additional on top of the $800 plus GST. and comes with a 14psi Actuator.

Trent said he spent 4 hours on my car and can't fix. I'm Very disappointed with the out come. I'm going to put it back to stock get rid of it and get another R33 or R34 that works better.

Turbo seems to be holding boost fine, There're no signs of dropping off like the stock housings did, and its pretty responsive on the road.

But here's a copy of the boost curve:

post-27032-1256766034_thumb.jpg

With the Powered up option basically what we do is taking about 12 degrees off the turbine wheel, So it can flow more but you lose some response Pre-4000 RPM. I'm working on custom shaft at moment which is made to balance out the lag and top better.

your car get sorted on Friday?

Nah unfortunatley not, and to make it hard the car has had a knock from day one which means (A) i dont want to put it on the dyno and (b) its had previous electrical issues. If i had known all this before it was booked in for a "tune" i probably would not have touched it at all and sent it elsewhere. Sometimes i need to draw the line. I wont charge for anytime i spent on it.

Edited by URAS

Trent has been very helpful. I have nothing against them.

I was disappointed as I didn't get result I was expecting from the actual car instead found all those problems. Turbo spooled nice, early and held boost fine which is a good thing.

Any way, I'm in a process of buying a 96 Spec II R33 as my next ginny cop (why's word pi g kept turning into cop?). going to check it inside out before purchase. For me buying a cheap, aged, crappy looking car and believed the the little pricks its going to perform is just very wrong.

Trent has been very helpful. I have nothing against them.

I was disappointed as I didn't get result I was expecting from the actual car instead found all those problems. Turbo spooled nice, early and held boost fine which is a good thing.

Any way, I'm in a process of buying a 96 Spec II R33 as my next ginny cop (why's word pi g kept turning into cop?). going to check it inside out before purchase. For me buying a cheap, aged, crappy looking car and believed the the little pricks its going to perform is just very wrong.

its guinea p1g anyways :)

Edited by Cerbera

First of all Big Thanks to Nick at Phase Auto in Campbellfield for trouble shooting and tuning. After the few dyno runs he spotted the electrical fault, and issue was fixed. Dyno results below are based on BP 98 Fuel.

This would be the first set of data for the ATR43 G3 .63 Internally gated. Today's result was abit average, taken consideration my engine compression is below 122psi. People with better engines should be able to make another 10~15KWs.

The turbo is pretty responsive, it was set to 19psi and it dropped to 17psi after 6000RPM. I'm going to do another run with .82 rear housing and compare results before cropping turbine wheel.

First set is Dr.drift remap with stock injectors and stock turbo back in May 09

Which made 205rwkws on 13psi of boost and stock ECU running 13psi of boost. The Stock turbo had half of turbine wheel missing when I purchased this car.

drdriftstockturbo.jpg

This is the ATR43G3 .63 14psi actuator. It run 19psi and set off at 17psi after 6000RPM.

atr43272rwkw.jpg

Compare data with Dr.drift's remap and factory map with stock turbo.:

atr43272rwkwcompare.JPG

nice results there.

I have an r34 gtt and have been watching this thread closely.

im wanting to hit about 260-270rwkws through the auto.

car is a daily so cant afford to have the turbo off and send it to you etc if i can avoid it.

would using one of your .63 housings in affect be the same as using my op6 rear housing turbo?

are the quality/results the same? (Boost response/stable boost issues/flow/total power etc)

do you need me to send you compressor side also? or do you machine this yourself? (could probably pick up a cheap r33 shagged turbo to rebuild with your .63 housing?)

Whats the best option here? what are the costs?

was going to PM but thought the answers might be useful to others also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...