Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's not really because I have never ever heard of a defect station removing your entire intake piping to check the comp wheel size, plus I'm fairly sure nissan don't put the specs in a workshop manual so they would have no reference and hence no reason to fail you.

You don't live in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne, do you? Our TMU come to you with a basic toolkit.

The ATR43G3 will make that power fine, the updated Turbine geometry will also give better power down low.

Or for the best street result I recommend the ATR43SS-2.

ok so the updated geometry version what are they worth and the atr43ss-2 what are they worth

The SS-2 is the billet comp wheeled model with FNT turbine. Cost $1900 to build, inc GST and oil line.

the G3 .82 is $1450 inc GST and oil line. There are no additional charge on current turbine geometry.

The SS-2 is the billet comp wheeled model with FNT turbine. Cost $1900 to build, inc GST and oil line.

the G3 .82 is $1450 inc GST and oil line. There are no additional charge on current turbine geometry.

As a comparison what is one of the high flow turbos worth (with the customer providing a std turbo)?

Stao can you provide photos of the new turbine housing at the rear side?

I want to see the dump flange area.

And is there a non skyline specific version that is not v-band?

You don't live in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne, do you? Our TMU come to you with a basic toolkit.

I guess in some ways the beauty of the highflow or similar framed turbo is unless they physically pull the turbo out and measure the wheels it's pretty much impossible to know.

I'de like to watch them pull the standard intake system off a 26 ! haha.

You can be rolling around with 900HP worth of turbo and no one is any the wiser.

I honestly feel sorry for you guys in Vic though, I thought we had it bad up here :unsure: But it seems QLD is one of the laid back states.

Stao can you provide photos of the new turbine housing at the rear side?

I want to see the dump flange area.

And is there a non skyline specific version that is not v-band?

turbine2.JPG

Here's the rear of it. Its can be in a 5 bolt externally gated pattern, Nissan 6 bolt or V band internally gated pattern. Or you can give us a drawing we can make it into what ever pattern you need.

Also went with a mate in a Ford XR6 none turbo for a cruise. At lights, I've managed to keep up with him head to head 1st gear and over take him on the start of 2nd gear with very little wheel spin.

Using traditional .82 PU rear, he over takes me by a 2/3 of a car length on 1st, I normally catch up head to head on end of 2nd with lots of wheel spin and over takes on start of 3rd.

The new turbine geometry is the best could happen to a PU or G3, Its got so much torque with very strong and solid acceleration, totally changed the way of how it behaved on road without the expense of setting up FNT nozzles. I'm very happy with it.

Stao are you going to adapt FNT technology to this new housing?

As I have changed from RB to JZ engine the dump flange area is honestly the only thing stopping me from buying one of your turbos.

What would it cost to do a different dump flange pattern/design?

We've rebuilt and high flowed few turbos for XR6, They make power easily with massive amount of torque. That would be the next turbo motor I would like to look at. The new NA model are not bad picking up speed from standing which gives me a pretty good idea of where I would be on take off.

The other funny thing is the driver's motive. no one manifest their motive at lights, every one quitely parks next to your at red, the motive gets exposed as soon as trafic lights turns green. I'll be interested to engineer the turbo that can launch my car out on the very front without having my motive exposed while I'm parked.

Stao are you going to adapt FNT technology to this new housing?

As I have changed from RB to JZ engine the dump flange area is honestly the only thing stopping me from buying one of your turbos.

What would it cost to do a different dump flange pattern/design?

Well, if the updated geometry can perform similar to the FNT setup then I won't be using the FNT setup on this housing any more. I can make the adaptor for around $150 depending on how complex it is.

Well, if the updated geometry can perform similar to the FNT setup then I won't be using the FNT setup on this housing any more. I can make the adaptor for around $150 depending on how complex it is.

Sorry but I fail to see the logic there?

The FNT update seemed to yield excellent improvements... Unless the tech could not be adapted to this housing design I cant see why you wouldnt want to add to it also?

In my thoughts your FNT tech might further improve the response again.. ?

The flange plate I would want would just be as simple as possible without any obstruction to the exit of the turbo, making it easy to construct press-fit split dump pipes.

I will have a 6boost manifold soon and may be interested in prooving your theory on the 340rwkw G3 if some more developement on response can be implemented.

It cost more time and effort to setup the FNT which do add up to the final bill, So if I can get similar or getter results with out the nozzles then I would perfer without them.

I can install a 3.5 inchs adaptor out of the turbo with a 4 bolt flange if you want. That would be very free flowing.

He is asking if the combination of FNT and this new rear turbine flow design would FURTHER increase the performance or is it calculated to have no major effect?

Also Stao, how much is a low PSI actuator for the turbo you sold me? I want to put the turbo on the car asap because Ive still got to wear in my clutch but I can't do this now because the actuator Ive got is 17psi rated and my engine will pop. I can put this lower PSI actuator on until I get to the tuner and we can fit the higher pressure actuator on. PM me in our big message thread!

Just don't boot it till u get it tuned sarge. Why spend an extra 150$ or whatever they cost when u can control it with ur foot.

Spot on.

Just don't boot it till u get it tuned sarge. Why spend an extra 150$ or whatever they cost when u can control it with ur foot.

Exactly, I wouldnt be giving it full throttle even with a lower pressure actuator! Use your right foot and keep it off boost.

Just had an ATR43SS-1 tuned last night by Trent at Status Tuning. Goal was a super responsive turbo that made ~250rwkw on 98 fuel, then ~280rwkw on E85. I only have the 98 tune so far, as you can see its very close to my goal with 244rwkw. The turbo is very very responsive, I thought as a comparison I would get a standard turbo comparison. I also had the boost plotted before and after the intercooler, as you can see my intercooler is quite restrictive and the gap in pressure increases with rpm. If I can get it to hold 18-19psi, I am sure I can get well into the 250's and maybe crack 260rwkw as Tao did. It has made street driving an absolute blast and it is 100% a street car.

post-29432-0-74815400-1303343915_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-90211900-1303343923_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-71733800-1303343928_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...