Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The stock one can externally vent too, if you stick a grub screw in the little bypass hole...

Why don't you just block it off until the intake is fabricated properly?

Can't be stuffed taking the car to exhaust joint and they wanted to charge me $350 for a intake pipe. lol beside I've already bought the part.

add:

Good to hear mate, and that's a very good price for everything isn't it? ;)

Yea man thats GTRS's performance with better response at half the cost. fken nice to drive. can't wait to get it boosted and tuned.

Edited by petero'nell
I really hope the prototype works then we will be concentrating in the GenEses development, the principle on that is having a turbo car idle at 1~2 psi based on a 500HP turbo, so people can take off and drive on boost all times. Making "turbo lag" history.

I see no practical way of this being possible. This would be an amazing piece of technology. How you can create positive boost on idle with the throttle shut is beyond me. It doesn't sound possible. How do you create a turbine structure capable of creating positive boost from the exhaust flow of an idle engine? The SS2 Ive got is almost like it is off when there is no load on the engine. I can rev up to 4k and control my foot to create nearly no pressure at all and when I plant my foot it comes on like a switch, but having something always creating pressure needs an opposing force.

And now I am getting jealous of this new turbo you have built which could see 280-300rwkw with stock turbo response :( Can my turbo be modded to suit?

Edited by SargeRX8

Sargerx8. To easily explain what you don't understand put a boost gauge before your throttle body. You will have substantial boost it just isnt getting to your plennum/boost gauge. Thats why it appears to come on so quick.

I'm not sure working to have a turbo boost on idle would be a good thing. Off boost driving is actually great, not something I would personally want to give up.

I'm not sure how successful these turbos would be in the wider community....

I'm not sure working to have a turbo boost on idle would be a good thing. Off boost driving is actually great, not something I would personally want to give up.

I'm not sure how successful these turbos would be in the wider community....

Its definitely not something for all users but there will almost definitely be a market for it out there.

If he can make something like this which can be somehow controlled, by a valve or something, to switch off this feature, I think there would be no one driving a skyline without it. If you can make something happen, you can control how it happens, when it happens and why it happens. A car engine was built ground up, everything that a car can do can be controlled in literally every single way. Boost, fuel, air flow, knock, lights, wipers, etc. If his intentions are to control it using something from the engine flowing or pushing something on the turbo, something similar to a wastegate, or electronic gate could control it to switch it off when it is not needed.

I still think its impossible.

Edited by SargeRX8

Sargerx8. To easily explain what you don't understand put a boost gauge before your throttle body. You will have substantial boost it just isnt getting to your plennum/boost gauge. Thats why it appears to come on so quick.

But that isn't the engine boost level so it's irrelevant. The throttle body is causing the restriction and that restriction is causing positive pressure, potentially you could open the throttle body and the engine would see no boost.

Stao's statement was incorrect and misleading

That 2 psi is pre-throttle body pressure. So when throttle is given the car launches with 2 psi of boost and build up from there. Still thinking about it, at this stage its 55% looking possible.

That 2 psi is pre-throttle body pressure. So when throttle is given the car launches with 2 psi of boost and build up from there. Still thinking about it, at this stage its 55% looking possible.

Will it be controllable? Can it be turned on and off or a fixed feature?

I dont understand the theory... Pre-throttle body pressure means nothing? As Simon said, the butterfly is the restriction so measuring boost against that doesn't mean much. When the throttle body opens and the motor needs airflow, the positive pressure will drop. It's about volume of air, not pressure? I fail to see how youre going to create boost at idle when there is no load.

That said, if it can be done then I'm very happy to be proved wrong. I just don't get it.

Still thinking about it, As soon as throttle opens the intake pressure drops, so pointless of building up pressure pre-throttle unless its lots of pressure. Need some thing spins quickly, makes enough pressure to fill the drop with bit of room for positive boost. Then switch it self off when turbo comes on.

The stock one can externally vent too, if you stick a grub screw in the little bypass hole...

That didn't work for me, the stock bov just kept on getting sucked open by vacuum.

That didn't work for me, the stock bov just kept on getting sucked open by vacuum.

The standard BOVs have 2 diaphragms as far as I know, the BOV's upper diaphragm will be sucked up when under vacuum, which lifts the whole piston setup upwards and allows the BOV to breathe through the return pipe. Then once manifold pressure is no longer under a certain level of vacuum, the spring inside the upper chamber of the BOV will return it to a closed position. This is why people always point out that stock BOVs (GTR included) are open on idle, and the reason why I now need to buy an aftermarket one - mine's running atmo hence breathing unfiltered air :stupid:

I dont even understand what he is proposing to do

Imagine a T25 from a CA18 on a 6L V8.

The second you open the throttle you will see boost. Stao wants to make something like that which still works like the turbos we currently use there after. Eliminating the wait for power to come on, and has quoted he wants it to be a 500hp item.

Sounds good on the surface, yet as stated most of the more experienced users would appreciate some level of lag. But who knows, maybe the technology can be fine tuned further so that there's more leeway than currently being discussed.

I cut my factory BOV open and there is just a diaphragm, one spring and one piston. Once the bay pass whole is blocked the diaphragm gets sucked upwards and the piston opens. I sort of got it to work by placing a one way valve into the pipe that connects to the bov to inlet manifold.

As for the GenEses, I'm planning to use a high powered electrical motored duction fan working with a turbo. Can be high voltage external batteries based. The Fan only operates till the turbo takes over. Depending on how long the battery pack can last, we can wire 2 or more battery packs and have some thing switching between the battery packs when one is running low. That battery will have a 12V charger charging it when laid off. So a super responsive high efficiency turbo is required as a base for this setup.

Above is just a theory thing at early stage there will be lot more in it. Might or might not work and the finished product might be too expansive to sale. But would be good project to give a shot at proven its possible or not possible with what we've got.

There are lots of failed earlier examples that I've already known, so no need to post that. But do post constructive ideas and tell every one what you think that might make this work.

So electric supercharger at low revs, or it will assist the turbo in spooling up?

I have an idea, could you drive the turbo from the crank (like a supercharger) but use some sort of sprocket so that if the exhaust wants to turn the shaft faster than engine speed it can without issue? So basically it only saps energy from the crank at low engine speeds when the turbo wouldn't normally be spinning that speed, when there is enough exhaust energy the turbine takes over and spins it.

How does that sound? I don't know how you'd route the drive from the crank to where the turbo normally sits but I'm sure with enough money it could be done.

Edited by Rolls

So electric supercharger at low revs, or it will assist the turbo in spooling up?

I have an idea, could you drive the turbo from the crank (like a supercharger) but use some sort of sprocket so that if the exhaust wants to turn the shaft faster than engine speed it can without issue? So basically it only saps energy from the crank at low engine speeds when the turbo wouldn't normally be spinning that speed, when there is enough exhaust energy the turbine takes over and spins it.

How does that sound? I don't know how you'd route the drive from the crank to where the turbo normally sits but I'm sure with enough money it could be done.

His idea of the electric fan is a good idea. I was thinking about having it belt driven yesterday when I read the initial idea. I don't think it will work. These turbos spin at 100000krpm. Our engines do what, 7? On idle the turbo will already be outspinning the engine...

His idea of the electric fan is a good idea. I was thinking about having it belt driven yesterday when I read the initial idea. I don't think it will work. These turbos spin at 100000krpm. Our engines do what, 7? On idle the turbo will already be outspinning the engine...

There are these wonderful inventions called gears... how do you think super chargers work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...