Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Should be much the same, maybe a little less...I don't think the ATR43 comp housing is much bigger than the standard comp housing, if at all. I just wanted a more factory look so got Stao to high flow the factory comp. The rear housing is the same as the ATR43 so this is why it should produce similar results.

Apparently my turbo is now ready so I'll pick it up, install next weekend and get it tuned soon after.

sounds alright, just get a sensor to watch your intake temps..your runnign a PFC arent you??

Little update:

This is sent in from a member. Using an ATR43SS1 (none PU version) on a stock RB20det with usual mods. Car made 227rwkws on 18psi. Green is final tune, and Yellow is his previous tune on stock turbo. Running pump 98 fuel.

rb20det225rwkw.jpg

Yellow line looks much more like the SS1 on a lower boost setting than a stock turbo... Might want to check that stao

Been told by the tuner the yellow line was what the car had on stock turbo after it was tuned. It was back for return after new turbo was installed, Blue line was the SS1 on a lower boost and Green was final tune on 18psi.

That turbo had about the same response as a stock 21U turbo on a Rb25det.

that doesn't make sense, the stock rb20 turbo makes full boost far earlier than 4200rpm, more like 2800rpm.

The spool times look identical, it just looks wrong. Not to mention I am unaware of any rb20 that makes 195kw on a stock turbo.

Edited by Rolls

Except definition of "full boost" is differ. I don't have a boost reading yet, The point of where power starts to sprad is not where it reaches full boost. 195rwkws was archeived by the SS1 on lower boost based on the blue line.

I'm going by the information his tuner sent at this stage.

r32dyno.JPG

How is anyone getting that the yellow/stock turbo traces are reaching full boost at 4000?

They only show power and torque, not boost. The thing could be on full boost at lower revs but the engine isn't making a decent climb in power or torque until 4k.

Yeah, even if the stock turbo's result doesn't make much sense to people, no one has actually said how good the upgrade has been...that's a lot of power for something that needs a push to get up a hill.

How is anyone getting that the yellow/stock turbo traces are reaching full boost at 4000?

They only show power and torque, not boost. The thing could be on full boost at lower revs but the engine isn't making a decent climb in power or torque until 4k.

Yeah it could be the typical stock tune midrange timing pull making the power dip making it look like full boost is there, and the full boost is at 3k where the earlier peak is. Good point.

edit: neo turbo has the bigger rear housing, maybe it was on full boost at 4k, makes sense I guess. Top result for a rb20 as well.

Edited by Rolls

I dont quite get how that pissy RB20 (flame suit on) can make 190rwkw on a stock turbo when a lot of us RB25 owners JUST make 200rwkw w/ stock turbo on a much ballsier engine..

its a 25 neo turbo

Yep i did read that, but still an RB20 with a neo turbo and typical RB25 neos (with neo turbos) both making in the vicinity of 190-200rwkw.. I smell somethings not right somewhere..

LOL I think I know what smells rondofj...

That makes much more sense the fact the yellow line was an R34 turbo. Great result by the SS1! Goes to show you that the R34 turbo doesnt really suit the RB20 engine as it has the same response as the SS1 which makes 30-40rwkw more.

Yep i did read that, but still an RB20 with a neo turbo and typical RB25 neos (with neo turbos) both making in the vicinity of 190-200rwkw.. I smell somethings not right somewhere..

People have made up to ~220rwkw with the standard turbo on an RB25, I see no reason the RB20 can't push 200 especially with the same turbo. Spool time and full boost would just take longer, which it does in the graph. Also allow 10-15rwkw variance between dynos.

Consider similar effect of RB25 vs RB30...they can make similar power but with the RB30 coming on much earlier. The 500cc difference isnt that great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...