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Update on my situation:

Turbo is finally fitted after I borrowed a blow torch and heated the copper to red hot then bent it into place very slowly.

Dump pipe/Cat was a little harder to fit as the rear housing is a bit thicker. This was easily fixed with a bit of pulled on the exhaust etc

Now slowly putting the baby back together and making sure I have no bolts or nuts left over.

Ohh and because I finally got the water line on I forgot about the oil drain hose lol it's to long so I will have to find a minni saw to cut it some how

My g3 had the wastegate flapper stick, but only due to postal staff packing it back into the box badly after deciding to check the contents. This caused it to be damaged in transit

They inspected internal mail? On what grounds? I've never heard of any internal mail being opened, sounds dodgy as f**k.

wastegate.JPG

This is the wastegate assembly that we've been making and using.

Part A B C is all lathe machined, D is cast then Lathe matched.

The bore that comes out straight out of the lathe is straight. When Trozzle returned his turbo Part A was bent towards the turbine housing and shaft of part D is also bent. I've been told it was received that way. Obviously I have no reasons bending it. The only explanation would be a impact caused damaged, so likely it was dropped during handling having the leveler landed first.

The sleeve bore C and B's clearance between D is 15 thus, if shaft D bends the whole assembly sized. This is solid stainless steel you can not wiggle it free. The only way, the "bit stickiness" wiggled free would be the residue or dirt that went around been part A B and C, which do happen on a car.

Trozzle's wastegate assembly was removed and drilled out on a large milling machine then reassemble with a new assembly. Once it’s physically sized, there is no way it can be freed up by fingers.

How ever for people whom installed the turbo it comes clear that the actuator assembly with the bracket had to be removed allow manifold studs to be reached. My suspicion lays on the installation process of when the actuator is Re-attached. Can be simply determind when every thing comes alive once new actuator is replaced while the old actuator also operates perfectly when tested by a compressor.

I personally test all waste gate assemblies and the actuator on a compressor prior shipping, so far have not seen a faulty actuator.

For those in WA or Perth with a Hypergear turbo, i would suggest taking it to Garage 101 to get it tuned.

Yes mine was also tuned by them.. I have a Dynograph i can post up.. His results of 375HP is on a Roller dyno and on Stao's Dyno results it says Dynapack which means it's a Hub Dyno right?? N they read higher compared to roller dyno, So 370 odd Hp sounds about on par.

Edited by Black_CSR

Yes mine was also tuned by them.. I have a Dynograph i can post up.. His results of 375HP is on a Roller dyno and on Stao's Dyno results it says Dynapack which means it's a Hub Dyno right?? N they read higher compared to roller dyno, So 370 odd Hp sounds about on par.

Yehh apparently it doesn't read higher though.

A friend of mine pulled 365HP on a Hub Dyno then 320 odd when he went for a run on a roller dyno. I'm under the impression that since roller dynos have the tyres spinning against the rollers which add resistance where hub is hardly at all n reads higher.

Edited by Black_CSR

A friend of mine pulled 365HP on a Hub Dyno then 320 odd when he went for a run on a roller dyno.

Yes I know, my car is the same. But apparently Status' hub dyno doesn't read higher, it's just as accurate as a roller dyno. Has been backed up by several results.

Have a look at this video:

Notice that I gained 11KWs by chucking 2 people in the boot. I would also jump in if I'm not the camera man. lol. Dyno it again with the boot sit and see what happens. :turned: .

The same car with the same turbo was later on returned at Status which made 303rwkws

So the real difference between the Roller and Status hub dyno is within 5 kws on a 300rwkws setup. That was also with a fully stock engine.

My time was worth it because now I know a lot more about how it all works from when I first started.

Also we can sit back and say we got the car to where it is now.

Exactly why I'm keen to have a go at doing mine ( with someone who has an idea about what they are doing).

Yeah I was curious as to it was inspected too, oh well...haha

Definitely caused by impact and not Stao. Fault of my wastegate wad entirely out of mine and Stao's control.

Yes I know, my car is the same. But apparently Status' hub dyno doesn't read higher, it's just as accurate as a roller dyno. Has been backed up by several results.

Dynos are going to have variance even if they are the same type, it's just the nature of the measuring tool. Throw in variables like weather conditions and there's plenty of room for error. I remember at the RE Customs dyno day that SAU Vic held a couple of years ago, there were a couple of Trent's customers who were down on powr by around 30rwkw...question is, was it Trent's dyno reading high or Ray's reading low. Almost every dyno day you get people sooking about their power being more at other dynos.

Haha possibly but we did it so I guess I saved $400 because we spent about $50 on parts

I weighed up the potential time required for fitting against what I earn working my dayjob...minus all the swear words of course...and I decided to do the latter lol.

My time was worth it because now I know a lot more about how it all works from when I first started.

Also we can sit back and say we got the car to where it is now.

Yes there's invaluable experience you can get from doing these things and it can be fun, especially with a friend. I guess I'm just at an age and level of experience where I no longer care to do the dirty work I could pay someone else to do and come out happier on the other side. I know I'm capable of doing these things and I know how they work, so all that's left in the DIY benefit bag is trying to do it for cheaper or the satisfaction of turning nuts and bolts myself - overrated. I've learnt my lesson - DIY rarely goes to plan and your time/cost budgets is always double by the end of it. Some things are best left to the pros!

Dynos are going to have variance even if they are the same type, it's just the nature of the measuring tool. Throw in variables like weather conditions and there's plenty of room for error. I remember at the RE Customs dyno day that SAU Vic held a couple of years ago, there were a couple of Trent's customers who were down on powr by around 30rwkw...question is, was it Trent's dyno reading high or Ray's reading low. Almost every dyno day you get people sooking about their power being more at other dynos.

Yes there's invaluable experience you can get from doing these things and it can be fun, especially with a friend. I guess I'm just at an age and level of experience where I no longer care to do the dirty work I could pay someone else to do and come out happier on the other side. I know I'm capable of doing these things and I know how they work, so all that's left in the DIY benefit bag is trying to do it for cheaper or the satisfaction of turning nuts and bolts myself - overrated. I've learnt my lesson - DIY rarely goes to plan and your time/cost budgets is always double by the end of it. Some things are best left to the pros!

Yes I agree, I've seen cars with 70rwhp differences between their back-to-back runs in shootout mode. Mind you, they are big hp cars, no-one cares if you're down 70hp when you're making 900rwhp anyway :P But my point was that Trent's dyno has had it's numbers backed up by several results on other roller dynos around the country, it's not reading notoriously high for the sake of inflating power figures. Whether or not comparing dynos is a valid argument, it's always going to happen.

Haha I'm the opposite when it comes to DIY. I do everything DIY now because at least then I know what's been done and how; I've found too much dodgy shit that has been done by the workshops I've taken my car to. So I just went out and spent a couple of grand on tools, now I can get my car up on stands and leave it there for as long as I need so I take my time with these things and do a job that I would pay out the nose to have done at a workshop. If something doesn't work, I know how it all went together, I know whether I may have left a rag in an intake pipe and where, or I can take the chance to replace hoses that I think may be at a risk of failing, etc. Better than your setup not working as intended and having no idea where to start.

Haha I'm the opposite when it comes to DIY. I do everything DIY now because at least then I know what's been done and how; I've found too much dodgy shit that has been done by the workshops I've taken my car to. So I just went out and spent a couple of grand on tools, now I can get my car up on stands and leave it there for as long as I need so I take my time with these things and do a job that I would pay out the nose to have done at a workshop. If something doesn't work, I know how it all went together, I know whether I may have left a rag in an intake pipe and where, or I can take the chance to replace hoses that I think may be at a risk of failing, etc. Better than your setup not working as intended and having no idea where to start.

My EXACT philosphy too :yes:

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