Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of a novus question, but could the stock bov contribute to boost bleeding at higher rpm on the ss1pu's or are they usually good for 300kw+ ?

Yes it's possible, Stao believes the standard BOV bleeds off boost, though from memory boost tapered off with his setup too.

The BOV does have a 4mm hole bleeding air, for a smooth throttle roll off. You can tap an m5 thread in the hole and loctite a grub screw there to try it I guess.

near identical to my old setup - OP6 rear housing highflow, return flow cooler, stock airbox, 256rwkw on 98, 17-18 psi i think ,that tapered off a couple psi

Birds i think you'll need to look at something more than just the spring in your intake pipe. I did the rev210 mod with my intake pipe and one day i found it crumpled and collapsed. My guess was all the extra heat from having a hotter running HF turbo killed it, but i'm not sure. Chasers made me a full metal intake pipe and if i was doing it again, that's the only way i would go. Sure everything was fine to start, but it didn't turn out great in the end.

Just get Scotty to knock you one up, done quite a few HG intakes by this stage i reckon :)

Cmon, you should know the answer to this John..

The problem with running stock housings is they superheat the air, the more air you try to shove though them the hotter it gets the hotter it gets the less power it makes..

You could pump more into it but it wouldnt be safe and wouldnt give a realistic figure of how much power it is actually making..hence the need for e85 to help keep it cool...Which should work well...ish..

Either way its a pretty good figure though for what it is and the boost it is running,

I bet it feels pretty damn nice to drive as is too, but I think if you keep on the gas to long it will heat up quickly and then it becomes inefficient..

I know mine used to...If hes only gunna do quick sprints here n there it shouldnt matter too much though

I was wondering about a single run for comparisons sake.

Making an assumption (it's going to get hot, blah) is all well and good, in the real-world is the test.

near identical to my old setup - OP6 rear housing highflow, return flow cooler, stock airbox, 256rwkw on 98, 17-18 psi i think ,that tapered off a couple psi

Birds i think you'll need to look at something more than just the spring in your intake pipe. I did the rev210 mod with my intake pipe and one day i found it crumpled and collapsed. My guess was all the extra heat from having a hotter running HF turbo killed it, but i'm not sure. Chasers made me a full metal intake pipe and if i was doing it again, that's the only way i would go. Sure everything was fine to start, but it didn't turn out great in the end.

Just get Scotty to knock you one up, done quite a few HG intakes by this stage i reckon :)

Well as I said earlier, if it comes to that I'll get something made up, but there's no point yet if the spring is doing it's job for now. Come the time (i.e. E-flex tune with more poundage), I will most likely get Scotty onto it :)

Was your old turbo an HG?

Its more than an assumption mate..but don't worry I am 100% certain he can give me a run for my money if that's what your getting at ;)

lol how about you sort out your clutch and I sort out my tyres first...I lose traction in 3rd which is, somewhat disheartening. I'm a bit worried now actually, without 20psi my midrange may not be strong enough to pull ahead of you early on. Guess we'll find out!

Curiously guys, regarding the extra power/torque that the R34 RB25DET NEO produces in factory form over the RB25DET found in the R33 (I can't remember what the upgrade was - VVT?)...does this power difference net any advantage when it comes to this stage of modifying? I.e. should we expect the NEO engine to (hypothetically) make more power with the same modificatons (turbo, injectors, ECU, tuner, dyno etc.) as a non-NEO RB25DET?

lol how about you sort out your clutch and I sort out my tyres first...I lose traction in 3rd which is, somewhat disheartening. I'm a bit worried now actually, without 20psi my midrange may not be strong enough to pull ahead of you early on. Guess we'll find out!

Pfft..excuses already, how,about we just race.

wheel size rims & tyres do you run birds?

i think u need to upgrade to 18x12" wide with 325/30/18 rears :thumbsup:

265/35/18 on the rear...granted I do have them at 40psi, so there's probably traction to be had in lowering the pressures a bit. They are only KU31 so nothing special in the grip department. Thinking of swapping them for Nitto NT05s, as Ric (HEKT1K) is running them in 235/40/18 form @ 280rwkw with no loss of traction in 2nd. If I could fit 325s I would lol.

Pfft..excuses already, how,about we just race.

No excuses, just altering my predictions of the outcome. But there's no point running up against you if I can't even put 1 bar on the dial and maintain forward movement :dry:

I also want to see what your car is capable of without a slipping clutch, so get your shit sorted!

lol, my car puts down 1 bar just fine mate..

Good for you, mine doesn't! Read my post again :)

Can I get in on this race :)

If you wanna drive down from Canberra...we can make it a three way :3some:

Wow, I finally found use for that emoticon?

Curiously guys, regarding the extra power/torque that the R34 RB25DET NEO produces in factory form over the RB25DET found in the R33 (I can't remember what the upgrade was - VVT?)...does this power difference net any advantage when it comes to this stage of modifying? I.e. should we expect the NEO engine to (hypothetically) make more power with the same modificatons (turbo, injectors, ECU, tuner, dyno etc.) as a non-NEO RB25DET?

All 25's have VCT. The main differences between the Neo and the standard 25's had nothing to do with power. The differences that do affect power really make no difference at all once you get to this stage.

Where are you guys located

Whyyounotcomehere

Melbourne. 2 vs 1...you come here.

:/. I know you edited that

I edited my post, but not the part about me struggling to put 1 bar to the ground!

Good to hear your result Birds. I still need to post my updated dyno result.

Its funny how before there weren't results for the ss1pu, I posted mine and everyone is acting like there is something majorly wrong with the car when it initially made 242kw..

Meanwhile now we have:

Birds 252kw

Kasko 250kw

Myself 251kw

And that now appears to be accepted as normal. Gotta love forum e-mechanics :)

On another note, I took my car to Wakefield park on Sunday...I think I may have had a bad batch of fuel since it was pinging on the freeway during the drive down however I put in a new batch of fuel then 'tested'' it after which it didnt ping at all so decided to take it to the track. Only did 4 sessions and was taking it easy since I didnt want to risk the car but the turbo is pretty nice on the track. Good power to use out of corners, more top end would be nice but whereas the car felt super underpowered on the track with the stock turbo, it now feels... i wouldnt say fast, but normal.

The turbo is torquey enough to lay long black lines out of corners in 3rd gear if you wish, nice to see them getting longer and longer in the rear view :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...