Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sucks about your clutch

Question for stao. Where do you turbine wheels come from?

As for reliability look what happened with the bw efr turbos

Manufacturing faults can and will happen

Just to give you an idea. I've had a 21U hi-flow for a while now. Over 45 track days down, pulled it off late last year and it looked perfect.

Birds did you go the 10"? For around the $650 mark?

I got a quote yesterday for one and the guy said its rated to around 400rwhp

Yer it was the 10. Bolts up to standard flywheel so that's a big plus. Wait til I tell my girlfriend I've got a 10" now!

Might be a stupid question, but where abouts are these clutches power ratings being measured at? If its only a 400hp clutch I hope it's at the wheels, but that seems like an odd place to measure it from for a clutch

Edited by Mitcho_7

They would be measured at the flywheel but you could give a rough estimation for how much wheel kw it can hold.

Well if the clutch is only going to hold 400hp at the flywheel wouldnt that be barely enough clamping force for the guys with the ss1pu's that have 250kw at the wheels?

??? In both Kasko and my posts, we refer to rear wheel power...

I'd rather they be measured at the wheels, that seems more practical to me given all our dyno readings are obtained there.

??? In both Kasko and my posts, we refer to rear wheel power...

I'd rather they be measured at the wheels, that seems more practical to me given all our dyno readings are obtained there.

I didn't see the rear wheel part. If you guys manage to get your boost fixed up top and get say an extra 20kw you'll be closing in on 400rwhp won't you?

They tell me it's good for 300rwkw, so I'm going off that. Doubt I'll touch on 300rwkw...even with E-flex...my compressor housing is too small.

Im not saying its a bad cluth choice for youre power im merely asking Is 20-30rwkw enough wiggle room in terms or clamping force once the clutch wears abit? I'm interested to know is all.

I think you will be surprised Birds, and the torque hike will only make it worse.

Im not saying its a bad cluth choice for youre power im merely asking Is 20-30rwkw enough wiggle room in terms or clamping force once the clutch wears abit? I'm interested to know is all.

Guess we'll find out, but it's a risk I'm willing to take. Worst case scenario I flog it off to someone who has less power and opt for the not-so-pleasant-sounding alternatives: fork out $$$$ for a JB, put up with the violence of an HHHDB, or do both of these things and get a twin plate.

I'm not drifting/racing the thing, I just want a clutch with enough clamping pressure to hold things together under load during the daily drive with the occasional spurt...I think it'll do the job fine. Keep in mind these power ratings are only a guide...there's no point splitting hairs over 300rwkw, not like the thing will magically pop just after 299.9rwkw and I don't think NPC would be selling their clutches based on power ratings if they weren't a tad conservative.

Guess we'll find out, but it's a risk I'm willing to take. Worst case scenario I flog it off to someone who has less power and opt for the not-so-pleasant-sounding alternatives: fork out $$$$ for a JB, put up with the violence of an HHHDB, or do both of these things and get a twin plate.

I'm not drifting/racing the thing, I just want a clutch with enough clamping pressure to hold things together under load during the daily drive with the occasional spurt...I think it'll do the job fine. Keep in mind these power ratings are only a guide...there's no point splitting hairs over 300rwkw, not like the thing will magically pop just after 299.9rwkw and I don't think NPC would be selling their clutches based on power ratings if they weren't a tad conservative.

NPC Twin plate ;)

Talking to a mate the other night who has one, he reakons its the best clutch he's ever used. I'm half kicking myself I didnt just get one from the start, but oh well, I'll see how long the 10" single plate lasts. So far its been great but :)

NPC Twin plate ;)

Talking to a mate the other night who has one, he reakons its the best clutch he's ever used. I'm half kicking myself I didnt just get one from the start, but oh well, I'll see how long the 10" single plate lasts. So far its been great but :)

How long has it already been in there?

When I spoke to NPC he said his mate was running one in a 300kw car so it should be fine

Same with the quote from KB clutches

He asked for my peak power/torque and what rpm it makes these by.

He then spent a few hours and got back to me with the organic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...