Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does the wastegate open in that housing, is there enough clearance?

Its got 42mm of clearance inside the casing. thats far more then what the actuator can travel, won't case any issues.

gate.JPG

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

You lucky son of a....

I am so jealous of your simple install haha

Can't wait to see the power

The 350rwkws was made by a G2.5 in a type B rear housing on E85 internally gated. The G3 on type A internally gated housing made 358rwkws with 7 degrees regarded timing in fear of bending con-roads. It should be sitting around the 390rwkws mark with time added.

Now it is:

flangeold.jpg

With all broken studs removed of course.

2ndly before installation I found the actuator had been short lengthen to lower boost. Doing so leaves the wastegate unsealed causing massive amount of lag. And that is a lag caused by negligence. It must be held shut and loaded as photo shown on the right, do contact me for a lower psi actuator if lower boost is preferred for what ever reason, but don't unload the supplied actuator, it does not mean the same thing.

actuator.JPG

I will ask the customer tonight if he unwound the preload when he fitted it years ago.

So did u replace the entire rear housing? It looks like a different wastegate setup or is the picture mirrored

Hey Stao, what size banjo bolts do you use on your cores? I've just been looking through the HKS manual for my turbo and looks like mine are all M14 banjo bolts, hoping when I buy a turbo off you after my holidays I can simply unbolt mine and bolt yours on and just screw everything in

Will this be possible or will I just need to get an oil/water line kit off you?

that was the old housing been sand blasted, cleaned and reworked to Type B rear.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I asked him and he said he unloaded it as he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20. This car wasnt laggy for the setup he had.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I didnt notice that before, but yeh when you look at it everything is opposite haha

he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20.

This seems to happen to everyone...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

I've fixed the photos. appears on the same way now. With the gate loaded and shut it should've pickedup another 200RPMs of response. Its been loaded now and hopefully there are some good tuners in NT.

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

Be good to see another result :) I'm hoping to lift my engine in mid next week. What actuator did you get?

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

You have my attention. Looking forward to checking it out. Which housing result will you be comparing it against?

you also have my attention, will you be testing it with a 0.63 rear housing or 0.82 housing? Im yet to put my SS2 in the car yet so i will wait to see if the gains are significant. But keen to get a Lighter comp wheel

This is a high flow that I've done for a set of Toyota supra with the SS1.5 CHRA. Come out pretty good. photos:

comp1.jpg

comp2.JPG

rear2.jpg

By specifications those two should be enough to flow 500rwkw+. Will post results once the customer get his car tuned.

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

These intakes can come with both recirc ports?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...