Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The boost drops off a fair bit up top.

303kw on about 22psi droping back to 19/18psi is a decent result, but it doesnt seem that much different to the g2.5 in terms of response.

The g2.5 made close to that power running 98 on only 20psi didnt it? and pretty close to 200kw at 4000rpm as well

Edited by Mitcho_7

Yeah it's looking like the turbo I'll be after. Want to hit 300rwkw or near enough and hopefully shoot above with e85 if it's ever readily available where I live.

Was gonna use stock manifold but after looking what Stao has said and the Dyno graphs I think I will look at getting a 6boost or brea manifold, depending what is available to me

The temptation to go external gate is there, but I think I'll stand by internal gate

same turbo just pump 98 internally gated. Only shows bit more responsive on paper, but on road its very different to the G2.5. Further response gain will cost top end power unless going external gate.

How ever small differences do adds making a pretty big difference looking back to the old G3. So just have to keep on working at it.

Results from the newer SS2 prototype on Pump 98 internally gated in bolt form. It made final of 302rwkws and did actually manage 200rwkws by 4000RPMs. Pretty sweet to drive on road. At this stage that every HP its getting is based on a trade off of some response. Probably only a tinny bit more room to play with. I will trail one more wheel on it in about a week time.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Wow I'm excited. Glad I sent it back for updates.

What is the difference between this and the other wheel you will be testing next?

Different profiled wheel blades, also complete with a bigger turbine housing.

I've made one more billet wheel with minor alterations to the hub that I like to get some result off.

Just over-layed new Ss2 against old ex gate 307 result and original 315 int gate result on paper.

New one is impressive. New vs 307 are identical from 4500 to redline. 307 makes more around 3700 but dips at 4100 then they meet up.

Original 315 makes less from 33-5500 of up to 60hp then only makes a bit more to redline compared.

Excellent result

Stao,

Any hope in a twin scroll internally gated turbo making somewhere over 300rwkWs on 98 & full noise around 3500 to 3700 rpm?

Here's an example of what the EVO boys use:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VEVO-039&Category_Code=NEW

The idea of running twin external gates etc.. too much money & space used up.

Just put hi-lighter over it. Forgive how rough it is etc.

Yellow is original 315 result

Blue is 307 ex gate

Green is new one with .82 rear

photo-12.jpg

Maybe Stao can get proper comparison sheet when he try's next wheel

Edited by t_revz

Stao,

Any hope in a twin scroll internally gated turbo making somewhere over 300rwkWs on 98 & full noise around 3500 to 3700 rpm?

Here's an example of what the EVO boys use:

http://www.atpturbo....tegory_Code=NEW

The idea of running twin external gates etc.. too much money & space used up.

If that turbo was on decent boost before 5500rpm I would be supprised

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...