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T revs ah OK. Well I have that one. Lol.

I will be running 98 due to the fact I do a lot of mountain runs and track days and e85 is not available as much as I would need. But saying that I have 044 in tank and 740cc deatzwork injectors. So I have room to play for e85 when I get used to the power of 98. Its like a free upgrade and by then there will be more servos

Haha. Dual gate is true. But the internal one is locked of with a pin and is nice and sealed. I did it so I have better resale value as well as the option to use it for EPA excuses/rectification and the most important reason for me, bolts to existing dump pipe. Nice and easy

lol Dan, yours makes mine look like a brand new clutch. Speaking of which, reco gearbox and new clutch are in. It was dragging at first, so I swapped in a longer slave pushrod and adjusted the pedal. Now the take up point is a little too high, so I have to adjust the pedal again -_-

Only been on a short test drive, but she feels great so far - no more crunchy gears and the organic clutch is very friendly. Can't wait for my 1000km run-in period to finish, then I can see how this NPC holds up to the SS1PU...AND GET AN E-FLEX TUNE!

no more crunchy gears :woot:, sounds like somethings wrong with it man pretty sure its meant to crunch :P

whats a gearbox reco usually worth..

Stao what would be the going rate for GT2871R or equivalent cores into stock 300ZX housings? Saw another 300ZX running this and getting good results so just asking.

Yeah the poor thing took a beating!

So I found the rattling noise in my clutch goes away when I slightly touch my foot on the pedal this is before the pressure point.

Should have it back out in the next week and then we will know what's going on.

Can't wait to see your 85 tune and what power it makes! As soon as tax comes im hitting it up and also going to get stao to swap me a 14psi actuator

Your rattling is the thrust bearing, 99.9%. It's common with aftermarket bearings...spraying grease on the thrust carrier/bearing through the clutch fork cover can help.

From memory Race Pace put a weaker spring in my actuator to dial back the preload.

no more crunchy gears :woot:, sounds like somethings wrong with it man pretty sure its meant to crunch :P

whats a gearbox reco usually worth..

Well for me it's free (:P), but it starts at $1500 and finishes at $2100 for a worst case scenario box.

Stao what would be the going rate for GT2871R or equivalent cores into stock 300ZX housings? Saw another 300ZX running this and getting good results so just asking.

They are 1600 for the pair. Equivalent to 52t.

how are people killing these excedy cushion buttons with 200/250rwkw i got the hhhhdcb7056 has handled a 330rwkw rb30det now in a rb25det still going strong

Cushion button isn't that heavy duty; the clamping load load is what lets go under power. It's just a very good clutch for launching hard and retaining daily driving ability in a standard or slightly modified vehicle.

That's coz its a HHH lol... The others are only running single heavy Duty stuff

This

But I still think mine should have handled 195rwkw for more then 8 months or whatever it was

Can't thrash it yet, but I'm already noticing the difference in drivability. Strangely, my KAAZ behaves better through low speed turns or when slipping the clutch - bonus! And even though it's organic, this clutch has more on/off action than the cushion button (go figure?), you have to have a decent amount of revs to take off smoothly or be precise with the take up point - love it! It's also possible I now have a lighter flywheel because of all the meat they had to take off it lol.

picka-boo TiAL :D ... pretty happy with the end result.

only on 10psi at the moment but holds dead flat, car is alot faster and spins all off second if i dump the clutch which it wouldn't do before.

Booking a tune at Chequered Tuning next week, aiming for 280rwkw at 18-19psi

post-80628-0-62415000-1341576515_thumb.jpg

Yes that is.

I'm recently putting in lots of thoughts into modifying stock exhaust manifold. All we had to do on it is basically mill out the top layer of the cast, weld in larger diameter of steam pipe and external gate port. Should be producing same results as any of the $1000+ exhaust manifolds, while probably cost a third of it.

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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