Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm waiting for a cometic multi layer metal gasket from usa. I'm not in a great hurry as Brae needs about one more week to have the new manifold made. I will announce price of them once they are successfully trailed.

Yea, for on my car it was around 3 degrees of timing increase for mid-top range. the power band keeps on rising instead of dropping and the torque curve also becomes lot more spreaded. I will do few runs with the new manifold compare to my current one (expansive one) and see if there are any differences. But either way I'm sure a 50mm gate will make some differences.
I make practical intakes that work, not fap toys. lol.

hey I'm just in the process of making my own metal intake - what's the reason for not just using mandrel bends? is there any, or you just loooove welding lol?

80mm alloy pipe won't fit well in the stock configuration, and I can't find mandrels in that size. As it is the same size as the AFM it just seems smart to keep it similar for flow, and 80mm silicone is readily available now.

3 inch pipe may just fit to the stock airbox with alloy donut bends but there is no way (currently) I can make them the same every time, manufacture them remotely and guarantee they will fit. It's quite hard to make a product and ship it across the country without making sure it is consistent, I can only do that with the lobster cuts.

If you needed shiny mandrels you could take your car to any of the fabricators on here, they would be happy to make a stainless or alloy version for you as would I, or make it yourself by all means. Will it perform better? No, it's only for looks, and if you don't follow the few basic rules in construction you will have all manner of issues with it. (unless you go map sensor and ditch the AFM)

PM me with your ideas if you like and I will run through the basics. Stay away from silicone bends as when hot and soft it will suck in and put you in the same position you were with the stock intake.

Update on the M35 VQ25 turbocharger high flow profile.

This is the small profile using the SS1 core. Also run FNT turbine setup. should have stock alike response with much stronger punch. Running with after market ecu I would expect it making some where around the 230rwkws mark.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.

They charge $90 per seat at most places, why on earth would you pay that to essentially get two holes drilled?

Because the RTA wanted them added to the engineers certificate, they needed to be done CORRECTLY. That means correct location as per ADR, which falls inside the speakers. He needs to fabricate a 'bridge' style mount that goes over the speakers themselves but under the mesh, then a bolt through the mesh into this bridge.

May I say, the ADR's are a load of crap if that's the case. (I already new that anyway.)

What's the cop going to say when he sees the speaker holding a child seat down. lol.

that intake pipe is an abortion....

If only your mother knew of the word! :P

Most of us here are more concerned with kilowasps and efficiency than checking out our gelled hair in the reflection of a pipe...but each to theirs I guess!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I don't believe the M35 uses a deadhead system.
    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
×
×
  • Create New...