Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll be be keen on seeing results for the td06sl2 int gate billet wheel as Im intrested in one but the kando ones have boost creep issues cause the wastegate hole is too small so hopefully this one outperforms it

Will you have them in t2 aswell ?

T518 style T28 internally gated patterned turbine castings are available. re-make another wastegate port and disc isn't much of a problem. How ever those turbos don't perform an where near to what they do externally gated mainly due to its turbine wheel and housing design.

I think there would be some money to be made if you could make a decent rb bolt on td turbine housing. Seems everything out there is pretty crap

Our current ATR28xx and ATR43xx Rb25det and SR20det internally gated bolton options are pretty mature, they would out perform most of TDxx turbochargers internally gated (and some externally gated). No point going over what ever already done. Do check them out for a bolton internally gated option.

Our Billet TDxx series will be engineered for externally gated purposes.

All turbochargers will be made to order in strict time bases, great support and customer services as always, and we won't be blocking any one on ebay.

Haha thems fighting words. Good work Stao!!

Stao, the nipple that goes in the top of Ss2 cartridge, do you just use a bit of thread sealant on it? The nipple looks like its supposed to have an o-ring on it but the chra is threaded right to the top with no recess for an o-ring. After a drive the top of the chra is damp with oil. Must be loosing 2-3mL each drive.

Putting loctite thread sealant on it now and will test drive again after lunch

Cool that's what I ended up doing earlier on. Just finishing oil pressure sender fault then I'll degrease it and go for a drive.

3 sleeps til it's tuned

Gahh im so impatient!!

How long did it take for people in perth to recieve there kit from over east ?

Its only been 8 Business days but it feels like a eternity!!!!

Looking forward to what it can do with my 34gtt :)

7-9 consecutive days. Mine has been over n back n over

My SS2 goes on dyno in the morning. Unfortunately the exhaust isn't as free flowing as I would like with a cheap Catco Cat on it. Will change it when I get back from Japan next month

7-9 consecutive days. Mine has been over n back n over

My SS2 goes on dyno in the morning. Unfortunately the exhaust isn't as free flowing as I would like with a cheap Catco Cat on it. Will change it when I get back from Japan next month

What mods? Int or ext gate? 98 or 85?

I've already bought my ss2 int gate but won't be putting it on till next month

So a little eager to see someone elses result!

What mods? Int or ext gate? 98 or 85?

I've already bought my ss2 int gate but won't be putting it on till next month

So a little eager to see someone elses result!

In gate, standard manifold port matched n opened up. 98ron. Poncams, port n polish, head chambers decompressed, power FC with nismo 740's,z32,3inch scotty intake,bell mouth dump to cheap cat to single muffler. Hypertwin. Freshly rebuilt engine

Edited by t_revz

Maybe just for the tune get a straight through?

You dont want to have factor in there that will limit your max output

Unless your tuner will do a touchup for cheap when the new one arrives?

Lol @ smash cat.

do it once do it right Trev, don't pay for 2 tunes coz you couldn't afford a real cat. You will need to retune if this one is a restriction and you change it later.

and yeah, you can YOLO it and smash it out. Mines permasmashed lol

I would have if it wasn't already so noisy. The plan is to smash it later and put a Varex mid muffler and retain oval rear muffler I have on it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...