Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Here it is. SS1PU internally gated bolton version for S13 SR20det non vct.

The thin red line is on stock cams, while the thick red line is on big Tomei Pro 270 dur cams which made it bit laggy. The tune is based on pump 98.

How much is this turbo and what's needed to bolt on just 3inch intake and oil line ?

The car's not 100% done at this stage, my expectation sits around the 280rwkws with bit more boost once all finished.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The I have two stock manifold that I can work around with. It will have to be on exchange basis. means I will hold a deposit for the donor manifold till stock manifold is received. Or just send in an donor manifold to be worked with.

The billet SS1PU for SR20det is retailed for $1000 including actuator. It can be built as a OEM bolton turbo for S14 or S15 (benjo fitting) with factory comp housing, It does not require after market oil lines, and certainly do not require and external gate to perform. How ever oil line is only required when fitting onto a S13s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds good, Look forward to seeing what pricing/packages you can do with the modded stock manifold.

Will be after a G2 of some sort and a manifold whenever this project is finished :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also since stock manifold is a twin plus log manifold, I would prefer to keep the way it is specially when its no longer restrictive. So external gates can be added to the turbine housing like:

Image0021.jpg

But unless its been worked, External gate would still perform better when fitted on to the manifiold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The I have two stock manifold that I can work around with. It will have to be on exchange basis. means I will hold a deposit for the donor manifold till stock manifold is received. Or just send in an donor manifold to be worked with.

The billet SS1PU for SR20det is retailed for $1000 including actuator. It can be built as a OEM bolton turbo for S14 or S15 (benjo fitting) with factory comp housing, It does not require after market oil lines, and certainly do not require and external gate to perform. How ever oil line is only required when fitting onto a S13s.

Sweet will be keen on getting one if I get a s14 so built with bolt on housing

So there built with billet compressor wheel so should handle big boost how much you think?

30psi I'll like to try it on e85 crack 300rwkw ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm taking about in a sr not rb but this thing has billet compressor so stronger and lighter

I'm talking about a VQ not an RB.

Why would the engine matter? The turbo will pump X amount of air, and if there are no restrictions any engine should run around 300 on e85 with an SS1PU, maxing out the compressor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day,

i have a ATR43 .63 on a RB25 in a 32, it has 3" TBE, 750cc injectors and a warlbro, at 17psi it punched out 302rwhp and my tuner informed me the next step is a bigger turbo.

any other suggestions for extra power? Cams? i dont want to go down the E85 route as its not readily available at the pump here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to know the turbo's profile, been .63 it would should be a smaller G1, G2 or the older TR43 series. Also I need to know the date of when the turbo was purchased. There has been many updates made since.

Generally they need to have a large metal induction pipe, free flow exhaust and a good tune. assume those are at presence I would dump bit more boost, and that should make it into around the 350hp mark assume it is a G2 profile. External gate also appears to work well in combination of factory exhaust manifold.

Depending on the hp you are chasing for, larger .82 rear housing is recommended for any thing above 350hp. and those can be made to suit your current turbine wheel.

Also just noticed you are located in Perth. If that is the case I recommend getting your tune checked at All start garage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also since stock manifold is a twin plus log manifold, I would prefer to keep the way it is specially when its no longer restrictive. So external gates can be added to the turbine housing like:

But unless its been worked, External gate would still perform better when fitted on to the manifiold.

How much will it cost to stao to have a gate supplied and welded onto my internally gated tr43i?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gate I can supply at $200, welding and machining and materials is $300. So all up is $500. you need to adjust the screamer pipe off the gate a little as I don't know how much exhaust clearance you might have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...