Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, at the end there I was suggesting that lag will have a lot to do with poor trap speeds even if you're "supposed" to run X-mph with whatever power level you have.

This brings us back to the ideology that it is NOT your peak power that will determine things like ET and trap speed, but area under the curve.

lol oh ffs

get a video happening.

my cars been giving me the shits so im probably going to make a video over the weekend too. going to rip a big 'f*ck you' skid to say thanks for giving me hell the last few weeks. private road as usual, ill try capture my private neighbors and their private shaking fists while I do. Straya.

  • Like 1

lol oh ffs

get a video happening.

my cars been giving me the shits so im probably going to make a video over the weekend too. going to rip a big 'f*ck you' skid to say thanks for giving me hell the last few weeks. private road as usual, ill try capture my private neighbors and their private shaking fists while I do. Straya.

Oh, just realised the link didn't appear in my other post. Just finished re-editing them anyway, here is the interior:

And the exterior:

That definitely does not sound laggy aside from the lazy launch.


What are you revving it to? I think you need to wring its neck a little further and be a little less forgiving on those shifts. Try cross the line in 4th, shifting to 5th just cost you time and MPH.

Yeah, at the end there I was suggesting that lag will have a lot to do with poor trap speeds even if you're "supposed" to run X-mph with whatever power level you have.

This brings us back to the ideology that it is NOT your peak power that will determine things like ET and trap speed, but area under the curve.

Correct..unless the car is auto..., but you still have to have both..a car with a big area under and no top end will lay over from half track

Hanaldo problems sound more like gear response..that will kill mph in a manual car, i lost 6 mph in one of my cars just because it

woudn't regain boost after gears immediatly..108mph vs 114mph..lol, that was just 3rd to 4th..before that it was worse in lower gears and was down near 105 or something. That was just caused by a few small boost leaks, but big turbo on fairly small motor, so amplified the problem

cheers

darren

haha, shifting to 5th costs big mph and at least 2-3 tenths( and thats only taking into account shift time)....been through this before, and not long ago last time, car went from low 13's straight into the 12.8 's

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

That definitely does not sound laggy aside from the lazy launch.

What are you revving it to? I think you need to wring its neck a little further and be a little less forgiving on those shifts. Try cross the line in 4th, shifting to 5th just cost you time and MPH.

Yeh I didn't get a chance to launch haha, staging issues.

I'm revving to 8000, rev limit is at 8500. I don't think I'm not revving it hard enough haha. I have tried shifting earlier at 7000 and 7500, but that just kills my times. And yeh, I did cross the line in 4th. That last shift to 5th is after the line, I just kept going :P Did you watch my boost gauge? It builds boost VERY slowly.

People need to realise that mph is worked out as a average aswell from start to finish. you can run down the track cross the line at 108 and be doing 108, and next run miss one gear, go across line and be doing 106 or something, but on sheet it will say 100mph.

So if you shift the extra gear, it does same sort thing from memory..

cheers

darren

People need to realise that mph is worked out as a average aswell from start to finish. you can run down the track cross the line at 108 and be doing 108, and next run miss one gear, go across line and be doing 106 or something, but on sheet it will say 100mph.

So if you shift the extra gear, it does same sort thing from memory..

cheers

darren

Even after the line? I was well past the finish when I shifted to fifth, I just did it for the fun of it. I always cross the line in 4th.

Halando my car is heaps faster then yours. :P

Also I noticed (ignore in case it was the sound of some thing else) you've got a habit of revving the engine before going to gear. That Rev is too long, engine's dropping rpm as the car's just rolling.

G3 can be updated into the latest turbine and compressor setup. I will keep pricing to minimum.

That video is no different to how I ran my car when at the drags as I didnt want to break anything. Still did a 12.9 @113mp with 2.2 60ft and 234rwkws of TD06 RB20.

I will just question, are you sure you are not rolling forward a smidge and braking the light. I remember doing an awesome run and got a 15.4 or something. I was waiting for a loud V8 to launch and piss off so I could hear what my car was doing and I must have just broken the light.

12 runs!...Sheesh I think i have done less than that my entire life. :) Good luck with getting it sorted. I can understand your frustration but provided the car is fun and reliable.

SO moving on to a question for Stao. What is the best Mitsubishi based turbo you can come up with for an RB25 that wants more power then a T67-25G but not quite T78 domain

12 runs!...Sheesh I think i have done less than that my entire life. :) Good luck with getting it sorted. I can understand your frustration but provided the car is fun and reliable.

SO moving on to a question for Stao. What is the best Mitsubishi based turbo you can come up with for an RB25 that wants more power then a T67-25G but not quite T78 domain

The car got cam timing and etc to sort, so looking to see final results after its all been fixed. Alternatively you can send it back for the latest G3 upgrade and see if that makes any changes.

Some thing makes more power then a T67, Its been already made. The ATRL25.5G 399rwkws with 23psi of boost on stock cams all within 7000RPMs.

Alternatively you can use our new SS2 turbocharger that has the same response as the SL220G while making lot more mid range and 10kws extra top to a T67.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...