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scotty mines the same, went 2 the drags last weekend, cold Friday night, lining up guy behind me had headlights on and all it was, was steam haha... all I know is I pulled manifold n turbo off yesterday and inside manifold turbine housing and dumpipe is crystal clean, but also is all brown n rusty.

Stao i thought it would be best to ask you as you have your finger in the pie so to speak.

I see all these copy billet GTX 3540 and GTX4202 comp wheels floating around on ebay/kando and other

sites lately...Are they a straight copy of the real deal and any good?

eg, not just a straight copy of standard style 3540 etc, but done in billet, so no real difference except for maybe weight

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Yeh I remember reading the article in HPI magazine about the condensation of E85 and how much more critical it is to do regular oil changes, the theory being that the same condensation that builds up in the exhaust also builds up in the combustion chamber and then finds its way back down into the sump, contaminating the oil quite quickly.

Can't wait to join the club :D

Yeh I remember reading the article in HPI magazine about the condensation of E85 and how much more critical it is to do regular oil changes, the theory being that the same condensation that builds up in the exhaust also builds up in the combustion chamber and then finds its way back down into the sump, contaminating the oil quite quickly.

Can't wait to join the club :D

Hurry up already!

Yeh I remember reading the article in HPI magazine about the condensation of E85 and how much more critical it is to do regular oil changes, the theory being that the same condensation that builds up in the exhaust also builds up in the combustion chamber and then finds its way back down into the sump, contaminating the oil quite quickly.

Can't wait to join the club :D

It does end up in the oil, but generally the oil is hot enough to evaporate it out. My catch can fills quickly with ethanol/water vapour over winter.

The oil would barely be affected unless you do short cold start runs continuously.

Stao i thought it would be best to ask you as you have your finger in the pie so to speak.

I see all these copy billet GTX 3540 and GTX4202 comp wheels floating around on ebay/kando and other

sites lately...Are they a straight copy of the real deal and any good?

eg, not just a straight copy of standard style 3540 etc, but done in billet, so no real difference except for maybe weight

cheers

darren

I don't really know much about other wheels. The SS wheels has been developed through time from data collected from many dyno runs. Like a mm difference in the trim of hub, tip height, wheel crop or degree in the blade angle, they all contributes to a small change in the dyno reading (that's also why a hub dyno is an accurate tool, it can map the tinniest changes made from a small alteration) , and from there I could work out the best combination of a good performance wheel for a Rb25det.

Once a base wheel is worked out its just a matter of extending/retracting wheel length using trail data to work out the size required for a particular power level.

Definitely lots of progresses lately. Can't wait to get my PU .82 high flow upgraded to VNT.

And post lots of feedback :D

HG billet T67+VNT would be ballistic! The HG 25G billet wheel seemed to make the T67 hit target with less boost and less revs. I can only imagine what the VNT would add to the mix.

The two T67s had very similar response while our billet version made 40kws more then the Kando item. We can certainly do the upgrade if you have a Kando T67 item.

Either way, I think the SL2 + 25G type of turbochargers might be good for certain tracks or drags that response don't bother too much. The standard SS2 which made 20kws more then the Kando T67 and 15kws lesser then our SL25.5, is a much of a better and smoother turbo to use on road.

While the VNT version of that is even more responsive then a 21U high flow while maxing out at 385rwkws. It is probably the best road turbo there is.

Stao what would you expect a set of bush bearing GT2560 highflows in Z32 housings to make? I got a set here with the forged bottom end that i bought and was wondering if they are capable of over 300rwkw on 98.

For the 300zx turbocharger high flows, I've seen 320rwkws on pump 98 so far. that is from Benny's blue Z on the 300ZX forums. those are capable of doing around the 360rwkws mark with supporting mods.

I've had few CHRA options to high flow the 300zx turbos, how ever the smaller ones didn't shown an great difference in terms of response, while the largest combination I've used (ATR28G1) made the most power. So I stick only to this profile now.

Bennys high flows where using the ATR28G1 CHRAs, Which are 2860rs equivalent. We can run FNT nozzle in those housings and bring up the down low response, while Billet SS1 and 1.5 are also now options to consider, since none of them where invented during my time with the 300zx.

Best is highflowing them with a pair of stock manual turbos that has .63 T2x rear housings.

Also VNT option is now available. I've only released it with SS chras, and for standard Engine under comparison it worked best with the SS2 CHRA. Price starting from $2000 with optional roller bearing centers for now.

I Will be into VNT Type B developments for the next few weeks. It will be an expansive and time consuming project to build, how ever for some thing makes 20psi by 3500RPM and 400rwkws+ is welly worth the efforts.

Engine wise the Evo 7 (GSR) was a carry over from the Evo 6 but they changed (I think) to hollow camshafts and added EGR .

Turbo wise the larger heavier Cedia based E7 went back from the Evo 6s 10.5 cm turbine housing to a similar 9.8cm sized one with the cold side unchanged . The std torque peak moved up noticably 500 odd revs from Evo 6 to 7 and I think they went looking for earlier turbo response to try and get some mid range squirt back . Also they would have been struggling with emissions in that 2001 era hence EGR etc .

The 8MR and 9s also use the 10.5cm turbine housing but its not the same as the E6 10.5 , instead of two holes and two wastegate flat valves the later one has double "D" shaped outlets mirror imaged to form a circle and uses one large waste gate disc/flat valve . Many people consider them to be better than the E6 one and you'd think Mitsy changed them to get better results . The thing is Mitsy kept increasing std boost levels right through the Evo Lancer models up to I think 21 psi with the 10s . People say the early 10.5s can crack over time and replacing them fixes some boost issues caused by the leaking gates .

Mark at GT Pumps used to sell an aftermarket 10.8cm direct replacement turbine housing which people like . I've been in a 7 with one of these on a std turbo with the IC pipe changed plus the exhaust after cast dump and E70 , its a bit of a weapon for a roadie and drives nicely as you'd expect with std valves cams etc .

A .

Haven't read all the pages but would one of your Hi flows be very close to the dimensions of a HTA3076 or that comp wheel be replicable in billet? be interesting to see a HTA3076 in VNT

Edited by AngryRB

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