Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's controlled run from today. The maximum power reached was 445rwkws with 25psi @ 4500RPMs.

No, its not responsive for a daily, how ever not bad considering the peek power it managed. This is our base run using standard cast compressor wheel, my billet wheel versions will be act against the result above, and the desired out come would be for better power and response. 460rwkws with 25psi by 4300RPM would be a nice goal to reach

Is that using a ball bearing core? Looks quite reminiscent of a typical .82a/r cast GT3582R result

Yes this is a ball bearing core, this turbocharger is direct replacement of a XR6 BA so it is in fact same as a 3582R.

We did comparisons against an actual 3582 in .82 rear on RB25det, they are roughly 400RPMs laggier, which is similar to the Thick yellow curve from few weeks ago, how ever not a lot of differences in terms of power delivery curve.

Those cams, I have a feeling that they've made the car laggier compare to stock items, Which I'm aware SR20dets do pickup quite a bit of lag by going larger.

Stao do you mean to say that this core was tested back to back with a 35R and it was found to be 400rpm laggier OR was the genuine 35R laggier?

The genuine 3582R was laggier. It was spot on to the none VNT boost curve.

First prototype is installed. Feels like I just gained even more power without better response.

the .70 is even laggier. I've trailed both on road. However .70 housing should give me little bit more top end. The run above is running a .50 cover. The other run compared to was a GT3582 in a .82 turbine which I presume in a .70 comp.

This is a base run to compare the billet wheels with. Not all drawings works and some performed worse then standard. So this is a base curve to compare to.

Hey all, i fitted my SS2 internal gate to my car and dump and it appeared it was all fine but trent from chequred tuning just tried to tune my caar and said the wastegate flap is getting stuck closed as it is fouling on the dump pipe. My dump pipe is a JJR Bellmouth item exactly the same as this http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18178

Has anyone had an issue with this before, as i cannot remember reading about it anywhere. Just wanting to make sure it is this before i pay to have it fixed and find it's not the issue. Trent said he ran it up on the dyno and it went straight to 30psi hahahaha

I'm aware the JJR's dump don't match gasket 100%. Here's a small tutorial on how to fix it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__6340

Or could be the stud is to long unless the lever is hitting on the outside part of the dump pipe. did Trent had a play or unload the actuator? Unhook the actuator and see if it can be opened freely by hand.

What sort of power did it make on 30psi?

be interesting if during you ss4 development you could grab one of those

gtx3540 copy billet wheels that are for sale everywhere to throw into the mix

to see where your wheels stand next to a gtx3540

be also interesting if once you found you perfect comp wheel for the ss4

if you then tried it with a gt3788 type turbine to see what effect it had on

the comp wheel with less backpressure

cheers

darren

I'm aware the JJR's dump don't match gasket 100%. Here's a small tutorial on how to fix it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__6340

Or could be the stud is to long unless the lever is hitting on the outside part of the dump pipe. did Trent had a play or unload the actuator? Unhook the actuator and see if it can be opened freely by hand.

What sort of power did it make on 30psi?

Im not really sure mate didn't get much info bar the wastegate having no boost control. I will mension this to him tomorrow and see what he has to say and report back :)

Annoying only finding it once it went onto the dyno >_<

be interesting if during you ss4 development you could grab one of those

gtx3540 copy billet wheels that are for sale everywhere to throw into the mix

to see where your wheels stand next to a gtx3540

be also interesting if once you found you perfect comp wheel for the ss4

if you then tried it with a gt3788 type turbine to see what effect it had on

the comp wheel with less backpressure

cheers

darren

Well the larger the blades are engineered the more HP it makes and laggier it gets.

I'm retrieving the size of the wheel while increasing the blade size for better response. 450rwkws is plenty, I want it to delivery the power in a away that is smooth and drive able as daily.

Im not really sure mate didn't get much info bar the wastegate having no boost control. I will mension this to him tomorrow and see what he has to say and report back :)

Annoying only finding it once it went onto the dyno >_<

Please ask Trent to unhook the actuator and see if the gate free moves by hand. If so then just unload the actuator and see if the boost controlling device is working.

I believe this is as responsive as I can get a 3540 to be in its original form by altering its housing while not trading off the top end power.

Since the configuration of the housings are set, I will then work on the wheels matching up the same sort of HP while not trading off response. Pretty much all other compressor wheels are developed based on the same way.

Some update from tuner Toshi. This is the first result from our updated highflow profile, Which has a set of customized wheels.

quoted from Toshi's thread: R33 Hypergear R33 hiflow turbo, Z32 ecu nistune 241kw at 15psi

Looks like its out of injectors, at 20psi it is expected another 20~25kws gain.

HxhBLzW.jpg?1?7643

I'm not too concert about peek power, however quite pleased with its boosting behavior. In which it did manage to hold straight to red line without tapering.

For power and response on RB20det SS1 or SS1.5 .64 is perfect and made for that engine. Those two are highly recommended over high flowing. Alternatively yes we can also high flow the stock turbocharger to be responsive which will be maxing around 200rwkws mark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...