Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ss15 rb20 high flow runs a 63mm turbine which is some thing ive recently made upgrading the ones in the ss2. I didnt think it was wise running a 72mm turbine which is what i usually use in rb25det highflows, as it might be too laggy on the rb20.

Compressor is ss15 67mm, that was tested and perfect for 250rwkws, that is pretty comfortable for this turbine to handle. So should make good power and not too laggy for the road.

The ss2 t28 is due for dyno tomorrow. I will enable vtc also, will post results once complete.

Made 297rwkws on 22psi On pump 98 fuel. Compressor maxed out. Turbine had alot more in it. How ever its gettng too laggy for what i originally wanted and i think i know just why.

Will upload result later on.

Here is the power reading for today.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Peek power of 297rwkws P98 fuel is only at 21psi of boost. How ever 20psi is by 4750 indicate some thing is not right.

After having a closer look, it appears the small T2x turbine housings are not very good taking any thing bigger then a 56mm turbine. As there is no more materials left covering the exducer radius, which just made the inducer gap into the blade height. It worked identically to as if I'm using a huge turbine blade that has a inducer area of some thing of 20mms. That have explains why the GT3071 worked horribly in side a .64 T2x turbine compare to as if it is in a .63 T3x turbine.

Large turbine end have made an very happy engine, taking boost and extra timing no worries.

I'm going to make an customized T3x geometry turbine housing into a T2x print, and re-evaluate using the same chra. Photos will be posted as project progresses.

Thinking of making a turbocharger out of this turbine wheel for my R33:

largeturbine.jpg

:w00t: Actually it was for an 1600HP marine engine.

I'm going to try how the .86ar goes on my ss1.5 then

Hopefully still get fullboost by 4-4300rpm and gain 20kw from more timing and boost

Going to install it on the weekend and tune maybe 2-3 weeks as it easter holidays and I'll get a dyno sheet overlaying the atr28g2/ss1.5 64ar and ss1.5 86ar

Interesting times Tao , it's about time someone delved into turbines and housings to unchain us from Garretts aging GT30 turbine variations .

You seem to be using quite large turbines for your compressors Tao , is there any chance of finding and using something a bit lighter and more open bladed like the GT28 turbine only larger and in similar trim sizes ?

Cheers A .

Hello Stao,

Regarding the RB20 SS1.5 Hiflow, just so I have all the figures correct....

You're saying the compressor exducer is 67mm and the inducer is about 50mm?

While the turbine exducer is 63mm and the inducer is 58mm?

What would be the turbine housings A/R .46?

Regards, Graham.

Edited by E-HCR32

Installed the .86ar to my ss1.5 to my sr20det

Definately feels alil doughy in the lower revs compared to the .64 but hopefully retune will make it abit better but abit surprised in fourth gear full boost 20psi by 3900rpm can see the boost rise fast by 3500rpm and full boost just before it reaches 4000rpm

Will book in a retune next week hopefully can fit me in before easter long weekend going put in a fresh set of performace valve springs next weekend and before tune and run it at 25psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...